mount hood southside 2

MTH001

Before the climb, pick up the required wilderness permit at the Climbers Registry in the Wy'east Day Lodge. The signed climber's trail starts to the north of the day lodge (east of Timberline Lodge). Follow climber's trail north for 1 mile to Silcox Hut (do not hike up groomed ski runs). Optional: To cut 2,500 feet of elevation gain and 2-3 hours off the ascent, reserve a snow cat and ride to the top of the Palmer Lift.

MTH002

Silcox Hut: This stone hut offers food, lodging, and round-trip transportation from the main Timberline Lodge. Its entryway provides shelter from the wind and cold. Next, follow the path to the top of Palmer Lift, heading north up Palmer Glacier.

MTH003

Pass a building at the top of Palmer Lift (provides shelter from the wind). This is the traditional place to put on crampons; the terrain ahead is not groomed and becomes more exposed to wind and cold. Look behind you to the south for striking views of Mount Jefferson; the Steel Cliffs rise to the east. Next, continue climbing north to the base of Crater Rock.

MTH004

Turn right and traverse east around Crater Rock, a volcanic lava dome. You may begin to smell hydrogen sulfide, which emanates from the surrounding fumaroles. In 100 yards, the route curves to the northeast. Look west to find Illumination Rock, the only prominent rock formation in the area.

MTH005

The smell of hydrogen sulfide becomes stronger as you near Devils Kitchen (look for the steam plumes). Devils Kitchen can be seen just east of Crater Rock (Devils Kitchen Headwall is another route to Mount Hood).

MTH006

The Hogsback: This long, narrow ridge formed by snow drifts generally runs from Crater Rock to the summit ridge. Ahead, climbers can either ascend the Pearly Gates (not mapped) or the Old Chute.

MTH007

The route crosses the bergschrund, a horizontal crevasse in the glacier. The snow conditions will determine your route around the crevasse; use extreme caution. After crossing the bergschrund, head left around the rock cropping to reach the Old Chute.

MTH008

The Old Chute: Prepare to climb up 35- to 45-degree slopes.

MTH009

From the top of the Old Chute, traverse east along the summit ridge. Watch your footing along the ridge (roughly the width of a sidewalk). The first views of Mount St. Helens and Mount Rainier appear to the north; Mount Adams can be seen to the northeast.

MTH010

Mount Hood (11,239 ft.): Take in 360-degree views from this dormant volcano (Oregon's highest peak). Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens, and Mount Rainier rise to the north. The Three Sisters can be seen to the south. Follow the same route back to the trailhead.

Sunrise

Mount Jefferson

Views to the south while climbing towards Crater Rock.

Mountain Shadow

The rising sun behind Mt. Hood casts a cone-shaped shadow on the valley below.

Crater Rock

Steel Cliffs

The Hogsback

To the right are the Pearly Gates. Old Chute can be seen on the left.

Mount Rainier

Looking north from the summit.

Mount St. Helens

Looking north from the summit.

Mount Adams

Looking northeast from the summit.

Cascade Peaks

Looking south: Mount Jefferson, The Three Sisters and Mount Bachelor (from right to left).