Nanshan Battle-site, Russo Japanese War (1904), Liaoning, China
near Nanshan, Liaoning (China)
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Trail photos
Itinerary description
Waypoints
* Fishing pond
In 1904 tidal mudflats extended up to the north side of Nanshan. These have now been filled and built up with infrastructure. Some of the successful Japanese right flank crept up through the mud at low tide in this area, undetected by the Russians. Add on waypoint during September visit.
* Foot trail to southern look out, gun pit
"Hand Bay" used to extend much further north, closer to the south slope of Nanshan. The Russian Retreat from South Nanshan trenches passed between the Bay and the base of the hill, when Japanese already circled from behind to occupy the high ground positions.
* Lower Russian trench line
One of the most important defensive works in the Battle of Nanshan. It is locally preserved, but elsewhere apparently obliterated by Japanese shelling. Below this trench the recent infrastructure and Chinese burials have covered the slope. An add on waypoint from September.
* Upper Russian trench line
Add on Waypoint from September. There are no paths down this hillside, best to go in winter when trees are bare and wild grass and weeds are down.
* Corner of Russian memorial gardens
The walled-in site is extensive, admission protocols not known. Other artillery stations must be inside the wall. Japanese Buddhists have attached a peace message.
* Exterior of Redoubt #4
add on waypoint from a return visit in September. Blockhouse outside the firt-latrines. A cat attached to me and led me around the wall to an entry breach.
* Ruins of Redoubt #4 (Tretyakov)
Several generations of military fortification are evident; Qing from the 1'st Sino-Japanese Way, Russian from the Boxer Suppression, and hasty Russian reinforcement just before the 1904 battle. Add on waypoint from a return visit in September.
* Hilltop, likely position of Battery#2 (Tretyakov).
On the NE slope the gound locally resembles hummocky, pitted images of WW1 fields at a smaller scale, with angular fragments of bedrock and occasional concrete rubble resting on the surface. The soil layer is disrupted, natural vegetation not yet recovered. Some overgrown sections of the trenches remain. Trenches are better preserved on the SE slope. Industrial creep has covered the fortified lower hillside where most of the failed Japanese infantry attacks occurred.
* Hilltop, likely position of Battery #3 (Tretyakov).
Dugouts on east side of peak. Trees have not naturally recovered in the Battery #3 and Battery #2 areas. Weeds and scrub brush, soil horizons blown off.
* Ruins, Battery #14?
Likely position of Battery#14 (Tretyakov). There were two generations of engineered Russian fortification, first during the supression of the Boxer Rebellion around 1900, then rapidly reinforced and expanded at the start of the Russo-Japanese war in 1903. A Japanese Buddhist mantra has been attached to the ruins more recently, and a similar one placed on an inconspicuous outside wall of the Russian cemetery. The text of the mantra is edited out, as photos of these are taboo for Japan Buddhists.
* Ruins, likely position of Battery #10
Partly overprinted with more recent construction. A private gated compound (Japanese?) looks like a memorial garden? This zone was overrun by the Japanese infantry breakthrough.
* Road Junction with Ruins
Several large blocks of Russian concrete work, and a possible bombproof roof, at crossroad, might not be in situ. In a low sheltered area between hills.
* Hilltop, site of Battery#13 (Tretyakov).
Significant earthworks and concrete remnants on the SW side below peak. Russian trenches on east side. Most of hilltop is converted to martial arts training platforms. Panoramic views to the southeast. This was a key Russian command post overlooking the Japanese infantry attacks on the south east side of Nanshan.
* Artificial pond, water supply
The Russian map (see photo at 1st waypoint) shows 'Dressing Station' was in this area. Very old (Qing Dynasty?) Chinese graves in forest to southeast, pillaged headstones broken and scattered. A yellow flowering bush is there, the only one of its kind seen on the mountain. There is little English translation information about the plight of local Chinese in this war. Some accounts suggest reliance on 'coolie' labour gangs and pressed 'native' contingents employed by both sides. Statistics of significant civilian casualties are recorded in some accounts.
* Ruins, in area of Russian 'Central redoubt '.
A possible artillery magazine is preserved intact. However, most of this position is covered in reddish oxidized rubble (evidence of fire) mixed with fragments of Russia vintage military concrete. Today's topography is said to be different from the pre-battle Russian map, so position numbers are occasionally in doubt. The old references indicate bombardments so fierce and prolonged that the shapes of the hills were changed and infrastructure disappeared or was widely scattered.
* Open forest, martial art training platforms
These 'platforms' likely date to the pre-battle construction, as ground in the rear "was cleared for bivouacking in places covered from the Japanese fire." The many sharp ravines are a notable feature on Nanshan topography and most have pleasant narrow footpaths along their sides.
* Exploring original Nanshan tracks towards the rear
Parts of the old Nanshan road network remains, grass covered. Trench in forest. Re-forestation is currently underway here (photo).
* Ruins, decisive zone in Japanese advance
The main part of the battery was subsequently levelled. Probably the location of Battery #9 (Tretyakov). Area of Japanese naval bombardment and successful infantry advance. Red brick walls similar to those seen in Japanese art-prints of the breakthrough location. Some photos from a return visit in September.
* Fortified Ridgeline (ruins)
Gun pits in bedrock all along the ridgeline, foundations/floors of forts or bomb shelters just west of the ridgeline. Open grassy area, easy off-path winter walking.
* Ruins of battery on hilltop.
Probably Battery#5 (Tretyakov), on a bedrock outcrop, the foundation mounts of a big gun are still visible. The platform was reduced by hours of intense Japanese artillery bombardment.
* Russian Martyrs graveyard entrance.
Caretakers home, gated entrance to Russian Cemetery and Memorial Gardens. The walled grounds are extensive and must include several of the battery locations. Not sure of the correct protocol for admission. Five or six small, yappy dogs respond to any close approach and alert the caretaker. Japanese casualties were cremated in their main camp east of Nanshan Hill and repatriated to Japan.
* Russian Memorial Plaza
The Plaza and Monument was erected in 1945 when Russia re-occupied NE China, having been absent since their defeat in the 1904-05 Russo-Japanese War. However Russia's return was met with Americans of Operation Cardinal, the American-backed Chiang Nationalists, and Mao Red Army resistance from remote mountain bases. Russia soon got pushed out of NE China again.
* NW corner of Redoubt (#8, Tretyakov)
Several herds of goats encountered around the Hill.
* Along north facing wall
Ruins of dugouts and small fortifications down hill towards north.
* NE corner of Redoubt (assumed #8, Tretyakov).
Old brick walking paths with stairs cover the main areas of interest to Japanese visitors, which were more abundant in years gone by. Photo of a well preserved privy outside the wall. Loopholes in the wall, trenches and craters in front of the wall. Vintage electrified wire preserved on top of all walls. Note: There are plenty of large Japanese brand manufacturing works around Nanshan today, and occasional Japanese (and one Russian) visitors are recognisable around the Hill.
* Ruins
Winter is the best time to access the forest and view the unrestored gun pits, trenches, and concrete works. It was possible to move through the forest in this area while walking a mountain bike. Concrete foundations of Russian positions. Russian trenches and gun dugouts still evident although mostly reclaimed by the natural forest. Pre-battle pictures show almost total forest denudation, probably cleared for visibility and consumed for firewood at that time. Current martial arts training platforms occupy flat areas, possibly floors of temporary structures such as bivouac platforms.
* Entrance road at highway.
The narrow paved access road is hard to see coming and only accessible from the eastbound lane. The Plaza has limited parking. There is access to the Nanshan dirt road network for 4x4 vehicles and mountain bikes. Several other road access points can also be found.
* Looking west to Nanshan 1945 Monument
Waypoint is just west of Railway Crossing, on highway. The attacking Japanese of the left flank assembled in protection of the railway embankment. Private Buddhist centers, a Chinese cemetery, and industrial construction covers most of the lower hillsides where much of the battle took place.
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