2016 10a - Laos: North-East Circuit - Xam Neua to Phonsavan

Leaving Vietnam behind us (for now) we cross the border and enter the mountainous north-eastern region of neighbouring Laos. It wasn't long however before the steep inclines had as battling, and we found ourselves a little over-committed on more than one occasion. However, the friendly locals were always happy to lend a hand and a ride in the back of a small local truck over the steepest parts was never too far away!
This region of Laos really reminded us as to why we chose to cycle through Southeast Asia, as we both experienced what we considered to be a meaningful connection with the rural residents, many of whom were incredibly curious of both us and our bicycles. "Sa Bai Dee !!" (a simple 'hello' in Lao) became a well-worn phrase throughout Laos, and none more so than through the rural villages of the north east. In Vieng Xai, we visited the incredible cave network developed by the Communist Laos Forces (the Pathet Lao) during the Vietnam War. This complex subterranean city spreads across many square-kilometres, across a number of separate sites, and includes not only shelters for the government forces and their leaders, but designated areas for schools, hospitals and communications centres.
After the mountains had eased a little, we took some time-out in the town of Phonsavan, where a short bike-ride took us to the mysterious Plain of Jars. This megalithic archaeological landscape contains thousands of large stone jars carved from a variety of local rock types including granite, sandstone and limestone. The jars themselves are considered to be ancient burial chambers that date back to the Iron Age and are an important historical site in Southeast Asia, for which the Lao government are now seeking UNESCO World Heritage status.

After descending from the mountainous northeastern reaches of Laos, we continue south towards the Mekong River. Passing the village of Muang Khoun, we stop to visit Wat Phia, the site of a remnant temple of which now only a large golden Buddha remains. A great opportunity for a photograph, not only for us, but also apparently for some local school children! Our route continued towards the village of Thathom, following the path of a mountain river as it rushed to join the Mekong. The road to Paksan however, was to be one of our toughest days in Laos thus far. With road-works plaguing our progress, muddy sections with sharp rocks, endless hills and hot and steamy tropical weather, the 120 kilometre ride seemed to take forever. The sun was setting when we arrived in Paksan, exhausted after the day on the bikes, but in the end we made it. After a couple days rest, we kept on rolling. This time heading east, following the path of the Mekong through flatter terrain, we make our way back towards the mountains and the Vietnamese border once again, albeit with a little help from a local truck driver!