Wikiloc | HEIM - Zagreb and modernism (EN) Trail

Photo ofZagrebačka pivovara, Pivana - Zagreb brewery, Pivana

Zagrebačka pivovara, Pivana - Zagreb brewery, Pivana

The restaurant and pub were once called “K pivovari”, and today they’re called “Pivana”. In the evening you can try some of the local specialities while listening to live music or performance of stand-up comedian. On the walls are pictures and objects that present the brewery’s history. Next to each exhibit is a description that gives guests a chance to learn a lot of interesting stories from the past. Encouragement for establishing brewery was a big Croatian-Slavonic Economic Society Exhibition in 1891 and sufficient amounts of barley, main ingredient for the production of beer and kavovina (kavovina is a coffee substitute that was and still is produced in the nearby factory Franck). Count Gustl Pongratz and baron Petar Dragutin Turković were the initiators of the construction of brewery. On the entrance of the restaurant you can see their statues. Seventeen small breweries that were at the time in the Upper Town could no longer produce enough beer for the city that was growing. Kuno Weidmann made plans for the factory buildings and Janko Grahor was the constructor. On July 12th, 1893 a garden terrace lighted with 12 electric lamps (15 years before Zagreb had electric lighting) opened its door. You can still see one of those 12 lamps on the garden terrace next to the advertising column. In 1993 the Brewery became again a join-stock company which soon turned into one of the most successful Croatian breweries. When you come to Pivana and order sausages with sauerkraut and drink a glass of bear do remember words of Otto von Bismarck who said: “it’s not easy to anger a man who’s drinking beer and smoking cigarette”. I think that he wouldn’t mention cigarettes nowadays, what do you think? You can find more on https://www.zagrebackapivovara.hr/zagrebacka-pivovara/

Photo ofZapadni kolodvor – Zagreb West Railway Station

Zapadni kolodvor – Zagreb West Railway Station

was opened in 1862 and until 1892 this was a central Railway station for Zagreb. Official name of this station was Agram Südbahnhof and the station’s building was built by K. k. privilegierte Südbahn-Gesellschaft. The building was built in the same style as the other railway buildings of this association i.e. with recognizable red bricks around façade, doors and windows. You can find more on https://www.europeana.eu/hr/item/9200352/15205; https://digitalna.nsk.hr/pb/?object=info&id=15025 , https://zedhia.at/de/zedhia-blog/sudbahn-gesellschaft

Photo ofRudolfove vojarne - Rudolf barracks

Rudolfove vojarne - Rudolf barracks

were built between 1888 and 1889, and the whole complex consisted of 14 two storey buildings and military training ground. In 1978 ten of these fourteen buildings were unfortunately wrecked down and in the remaining 4 different Ministries of the Republic of Croatia moved in. Meadow that lies behind the barracks is today often used for the open-air concerts or different festivals. You can find more on http://www1.zagreb.hr/zagreb/galerijakd.nsf/PGW?OpenPage

Photo ofCrkva svetog Blaža - Church of Saint Blaise

Crkva svetog Blaža - Church of Saint Blaise

was built between 1910 and 1915 based on the design of Viktor Kovačić. At the time when this church was built, we didn’t have in Zagreb domes made of reinforced concrete, so when this one was done people believed that it will collapse immediately. In order to prove them wrong the architect Kovačić spend the first night under the dome. Another safety prove is the fact that in 2020 earthquake there were no damages on the dome. If you’ll be visiting Zagreb in December be sure to visit this church because that’s the only time in year when you can see first Croatian nativity scene, made of wax back in 1916. You can find more on: http://www.mgz.hr/UserFiles/file/Sveti_Blaz_presavitak.pdf; http://www.mgz.hr/en/collections/donation-to-the-city-of-zagreb-the-collection-and-flat-of-the-architect-viktor-kova%c4%8di%c4%87,1.html

Photo ofKino Kinoteka - Cinema 'Kinoteka'

Kino Kinoteka - Cinema 'Kinoteka'

always had a status of the cult place for film lovers, and the café in the lobby of Kinoteka as well as the green terrace, in the shade of trees still has a charm of old cinema. A graffiti of Charlie Chaplin and his tramp welcomes you at the entrance. The history of Kinoteka is very interesting. Building tucked behind the church of Saint Blaise, was purposely built in 1941 to be used for showing films. After the World War 2 ended Kinoteka came under the jurisdiction of “Centar za film i filmsku kulturu Narodnoga sveučilišta Grada Zagreba”. In 1974 in cooperation with then Jugoslav Kinoteka they began with projections of film programme. During the Homeland War this cooperation ended, and the cinema came under the authority of Filmoteka 16 i.e. Zagreb film. After the merge they started giving contemporary film programme of great quality. In 2005 the premises of Kinoteka were returned to their proper owner – parish church of Saint Blaise, that was in charge of the cinema until 2017 when Kinoteka together with Summer Stage Tuškanac, and Medvedgrad scene was given to the Centar za kulturu i film August Cesarec. During summer cinema moves to the open scene in the Tuškanac wood. On the Summer Stage Tuškanac (Ljetna pozornica Tuškanac) they show thematically different films aimed at the audience of different taste in film. Also, they organize numerous festivals and manifestations here, such as Fantastik Film Festival. How many beautiful moments have I spent in this cinema. In the grammar school – watching film classics, and as a student on the Faculty watching films within the Filmologija class given by Ante Peterlić PhD back in 1967/68. He gave lectures on filming angle, role that music plays in films, he explained in detail each important scene. It took me a long time to stop whispering all of this information to my future husband’s ear during the film. Because of this he even gave me a nickname Liza-analiza (Lisa-analysis). I remember all the sweet moments I spent in the same cinema with my sons watching films for children. Each siting on one knee, and me whispering into their ears translation of the film, and behind me one father asking “Madam, could you please talk a little louder so that my son could also hear you!”😊. You can find more on: www.centarcesarec.hr; http://www.kinokinoteka.hr/, and on their Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/KinoKinoteka/

Photo ofBritanski trg ili Mali plac - British Square or Small Market

Britanski trg ili Mali plac - British Square or Small Market

Above the square are Pantovčak, Zelengaj and Josipovac that you can reach by buses from the Britanski trg. At the end of 19th century a market was opened, and it’s still here today. On Sundays this becomes antiquity market, so it’s worth a visit. And if you don’t need to buy anything than you can just sit in one of the cafes, drink coffee, and enjoy the hustle and bustle of the market.

Photo ofMesnička ulica - Mesnička street

Mesnička ulica - Mesnička street

This is one of the oldest streets in Zagreb that connects Downtown and Upper Town, and in this street was one of the five city doors through which you would enter Upper Town. The residents of the street were predominantly owners of butcher shops and that’s how the street got the name (butcher shop in Croatian is called mesnica). There are no more butcher shops in the street, but the name still stands. From Mesnička you can enter the Grič Tunnel, and exit in the Art park, Tomićeva street or Radićeva street. And since you are already in Mesnička, be sure to stop at the restaurant Stari Fijaker for a lunch break, and enjoy in some of the typical Zagreb cuisine. You can find more on following links: https://digitalna.nsk.hr/pb/?object=info&id=15184; http://www.starifijaker.hr/index.html

NAMA

The name comes from the first two letters of Narodni Magazin or National store. This was a department store opened by Austrian traders Carl Kastner and Hermann Öhler. In 1879 in Ilica 50 they opened their first manufacture and ready-to-wear shop. As they developed, they also changed shop’s location, getting closer and closer to Trg bana Jelačića. On the present-day location they came in the beginning of 20th century. At the time on this location was a hotel, and department store moved into the hotel’s ground floor. In 1913 hotel moved out, and architect Ignjat Fischer made plans for renovation, and the store expanded to two floors. Some ten years later hotel’s old building was wrecked down, and new four storey building in the art-decó style was born, and it was called Kastner and Öhler. This department store was the first of its kind in Zagreb and paved the way for the modern department store. After the Second world war the store changed name into Nama and started opening shops all over Zagreb. Unfortunately, most of those shops are today closed, except the first one in Ilica, and the one on Kvaternikov trg. Regardless of that Nama for Zagrebians is today just like it was hundred years ago a place where we can find whatever we are looking for and we keep coming back to it just as if though it’s an old friend. You can find more on following link: https://www.lovezagreb.hr/topics/heartbeat-of-zagreb/nama-and-zagreb-trading-tradition-572934fde2373

Photo ofTramvaj - Tramway, Tram stop - tram number 12, next stop Kvaternikov trg

Tramvaj - Tramway, Tram stop - tram number 12, next stop Kvaternikov trg

In the end of 19th century Zagreb began to develop and grow very quickly. In 1841 in Zagreb a trade exhibition was opened and with it the first horse-drawn tram was released. It used to go from Savska cesta (today Tehnički muzej – Technical museum) to Ilica (it passed Croatian national theatre, and Frankopanska ulica). The length of all the trails was 8km, and later on the tram went from Mitnica (today Kvaternikov trg), through Vlaška, Draškovićeva, Jurišićeva, Trg bana Jelačića and Ilica till the last stop which was at than Južni kolodvor (in English southern railway station). One of the lines use to go to Savski most (in English Bridge on Sava) where was once a bathing place. In 1892 Central Railway station on Trg kralja Tomislava was built, and from there one line use to go to the main square. In 1910 the horse-drawn tram was replaced with the electric one that is still in use. The current length of trails is 161km from Dubac and Dubrava on the east of the city till Prečko on the west, and New Zagreb on the south. Once the tickets were sold by tram conductors, and even today those who don’t buy tickets are very afraid of them, when they see them. Modern day trams are bigger, they are airconditioned and have more space. They are much more comfortable that the old ones, that were smaller and rickety, but older citizens of Zagreb still miss the old tram number 14 with open carriage, that used to take them during the summer on the Sava bathing place. These trams were always overcrowded, braver boys would travel without the ticket, or would stand on pulfer (back part of the tram, that is on the outside, and you can stand on it, but it is very dangerous). This used to be the real test of bravery because there was always a chance that one might fall from pulfer, and even if you didn’t fall there was a great chance that you would be caught and had to pay fine. But who could catch them? They would jump several meters before the stop and run away from the tram as fast as they could. More on: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trams_in_Zagreb

Photo ofKvaternikov trg - Kvaternik square

Kvaternikov trg - Kvaternik square

Until the end of 19th century when this location was transformed into the square this used to be an eastern entrance into the city. In the building in which today is McDonalds in 1862 was a liqueur industry Pokorny and on number 11 used to be a bathhouse. Nearby was a wine and brandy industry Arko that changed the name after the Second World War into Badel 1862. The square was named after Zagrebian Eugen Kvaternik (1825 -1871) who was fervent fighter for Croatia’s independence. Zagrebians call this square Kvatrić. "When I was a child back in 1950s, I used to go to Kvatrić every day hoping that my mom will get me some nice treats (oblizek in Croatian) such as small honeycomb or handful of cherries and forest strawberries. On the eastern side of square toward NAMA one could buy live poultry, that was brought to the market in small wired cages. This was the liveliest part of the market. Here you could hear clucking of the chickens and see feathers that were flying everywhere. We would choose the hen we wanted to buy, it was weighed on special scale but in a way that it was hanging upside down, of course the hens and chickens didn’t like it, so that’s why the feathers were everywhere. We would than take the hen home which was nearby. Behind the area where poultry was sold, “Bulgarians” were selling their vegetables. They moved to Zagreb from Bulgaria in 19th century, but we still called them Bulgarians, and they were excellent gardeners and had the best vegetables. At that time, they mostly lived at the outskirts of Zagreb (today Knežija and Jarun). Behind them were the benches with fruit, and on the western part of the market farmers (women called in Zagreb kumice) from Šestine were selling milk, cottage cheese, cream, and eggs. Only few families at the time could afford refrigerators, so we would buy all of these products on daily basis. What I really liked was butter in a form of a brick and with “carved” image of bird or clover leaf. They were brought in enameled container by farmers. After we bought the butter it was packed in a grape leaf, and we were carrying it in a bucket full of ice-cold water so that it would not melt till we reached home. The leaf was a real biodegradable, ecological package". Buses and trams circled around the square, just like nowadays, so from the early morning hours this square was bustling with life. Once this was the last tram stop for all the trams, and today it has that same function for only one tram line, all other continue further on to Maksimir or Dubrava. This was and still is the first stop for the buses riding towards the north, east and southeast areas of Zagreb. In the afternoon hours only flower shops used to be opened, and they are the only ones that remained on the same location. Surrounding the square are today numerous shops where you can buy clothes, cosmetics, or jewelry, confectionery, and charming restaurants (one of which is "2 goluba"), and once on this square was also a public bath. In 1968 in the eastern part of the square a big department store – NAMA was built. There used to be a cinema in this square also, but now it is turned into an architect’s office and a bar. Due to the traffic jams and car accidents as well as unacceptable conditions of sale it was decided to renovate the square in 1989. An underground garage was built, and market was moved to a nearby Šubićeva opposite of the Gorica (crockery factory, former Badel and Arko factory). Kvatrić green market is now on a small surface squeezed between a big commercial building in which ground floor's are fishmonger, butcher shops and dairy products shops, and on the other sides are tacky stalls selling cheap clothes. In vain did the city renovate facades of all the houses on Kvatrić, erected advertising column, wooden stage and a fountain, this square lost its sole. Besides the public toilet which remained on that same place only flower shops are still standing, and one bakery and confectionery were opened. Shops that are in the underground area, as well as oversized garage are almost completely empty, and walking on the square is complicated. The square as a place of encounters and communications has died. Flower shops that are entirely made of glass give the impression of the cemetery, so Zagrebians call this square now Krematorij!

Badel 1862, Vlaška 116

Badel 1862 is one of the oldest Croatian wine and alcohol producers, and its history goes back to 1862 and the liqueur industry Pokorny that used to stand on today’s Kvaternikov trg. Soon after nearby Pokorny in Vlaška street a new wine and brandy industry “Mijo Arko” opened in 1867. Finally in 1886 also nearby cognac and fine liqueur industry “Patria” opened its door to business. Out of these three “Arko” was the biggest and the most modern one, with the largest investment in modernisation, constant investment in factory workers, and they invested constantly in export and production development. After the Second World War these three industries were nationalised, and unified into one called “Marijan Badel” that has in 1991 changed the name into Badel 1862. They moved from Vlaška to Žitnjak where majority of their production is still today, but parts of the old factory are protected by law since they are part of valuable industrial heritage. You can find more on following links: https://www.badel1862.hr/en/about-us/; https://designdistrict.hr/location/badel-gorica-block/; http://rodin.mgz.hr/Collection;

Photo ofTržnica Kvatrić - Kvatrić market

Tržnica Kvatrić - Kvatrić market

was once on the edge of the Downtown. It was built on the former location of mitnica (turnpike) where papers of newcomers to the city were checked and fees for the goods that were meant for sale in Zagreb had to be paid. At that time Vlaška ulica ended here, and this was at the same time the end of the city. The square where Vlaška and Međašna crossed (today Domjanićeva street) was named Međašni trg (translated into English it means border square). Later-on this square was renamed Kvaternik square, after Zagrebian Eugen Kvaternik (1825 -1871) who was fervent fighter for Croatia’s independence. Zagrebians call this square Kvatrić. Until 1989 on the square used to be the market. But due to the lack of parking places, traffic jams in nearby streets, frequent car accidents as well as unacceptable conditions of sale it was decided to renovate the square in 1989. An underground garage was built, and market was moved to a nearby Šubićeva opposite of the Gorica (crockery factory, former Badel and Arko factory). Kvatrić green market is now on a small surface squeezed between big commercial building in which ground floor's are fishmonger, butcher shop and dairy products shop, and on the other sides are tacky stalls selling cheap clothes. This new market will never bring back to life the spirit of the old market that used to be on Kvaternik square, the one that older citizens of Zagreb still bear in their memory.

Naselje Arko - Arko Estate

The estate was built in the 1920s and it’s one of the first estates build from private capital. It was built by an industrial Vladimir Arko for the workers (dominantly clerks) of his factory “Arko” that is close to the estate. There are 8 houses on the estate and each house has 3 levels (basement, ground floor, and first floor) and comprises of 1 one-bedroom flat and 2 two-bedroom flats, and in between the houses is communal garden.

Photo ofNAMA Kvaternikov trg - Nama on Kvaternik square

NAMA Kvaternikov trg - Nama on Kvaternik square

On the eastern side of the square Kvaternik in 1968 a department store NAMA was built. Architects Josip Hitil, Slobodan Jovičević and Franjo Kamenski made plans for NAMA, and this is one of the best examples of modernism in architecture. With its white façade that is discreetly woven with intertwined graphic rhombs NAMA still today perfectly matches the square's panorama. NAMA is the acronym of the name Narodni magazin (translated in English national store). The organization was founded in 1945 just after the Second World War ended, and until 1976 they opened 13 department stores around Croatia, and in them, just like anywhere else in the World, we were able to buy everything from soup to nuts. We used to spend there hours and hours looking for clothes and shoes, children toys, furniture, home appliances, groceries. On the top floor was always a coffee bar or restaurant. The concept of the store, as well as the intentions of the vendors remained the same until today: to create a pleasant atmosphere so that prospective buyers would remain as long as possible in the store and buy things they didn’t even plan on buying. Until present day only two department stores NAMA survived one is in Ilica, and one on Kvatrić, and despite the fact that they went through the rough patch both of them still do well.

Tramvaj - Tramway

Take a tram number 12, and go out of the tram in Draškovićeva street

Draškovićeva

Exit the tram and continue walking

August Šenoa

(1838 – 1881) The most famous writer of Zagreb. He was a town notary, editor of the magazine, and writter of numerous novels and stories about Zagreb and its history. His most famous book is “Zlatarevo zlato” that describes Zagreb in 16th century. After the 1880 earthquake he visited all the houses that were damaged in order to make estimation of the costs. While doing so he caught pneumonia and died. Šenoa house at Malinova street 27 is not a museum but a home where a family still lives. You will not see descriptions next to the exhibited artefacts because Jasmina Reis, heiress and keeper of the Šenoa family heritage, together with two students from the Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences wants to explain everything about the house on her own. There is no permanent exhibition because display changes based on events they organize such as literary nights, concerts, anniversaries etc. This house was built in 1928 by Milan, the oldest son of August Šenoa. He choose this location because he and his father loved coming to this hill and visit August Šenoa’s friend Josip Eugen Tomić. Mr. Tomić had on this hill small wine cellar as he was a foreman of the city’s vineyards that lay between Gupčeva zvijezda and Jurjevska street. The great August Šenoa, unfortunately, all his life lived in a rented lodging. He was born at Vlaška street 45, moved several times, and died at Mesnička street at the age of only 43. Mother of Jasmina Reis was a wife of writer’s grandson Zdenko, and she heard a lot of family stories from him that now she retells to the visitors. She studies everything that remained from once numerous Šenoa family. House itself is not very big, around 200 m², it has two floors, but it’s full of love and harmony of the family that managed despite all the social changes and wars to keep the legacy of the great writer. You can see here his furniture, art works, books, letters, and personal objects that portray the life of the family in the best way. The main reason for the good state of the legacy is August’s wife Slava, who outlived August Šenoa for 60 years. Today in the house different events are organized but always connected with Šenoa and his family. Guided visits of Zagreb are also organized and during these walks aside of learning where the birth house of August Šenoa is, participants of the tours also visit other places connected to the August Šenoa’s books. But tour also includes visiting places that are connected to the life and work of his sons Branko Šenoa who was a painter and Milan Šenoa who was a writer, and his grandson Zdenko Šenoa who was lexicographer. Unfortunately, this house was severely damaged in 2020 earthquake and is waiting for the reconstruction. You can find more on following links: http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/senoa/; https://kuca.senoa.eu

Vlaška ulica - Vlaška street

is one of the oldest parts of Zagreb, first mentioned in 12th century. From those days till present day the street remained one of the busiest in Zagreb. In history here were several churches that had a hospital for the poor, orphanage, and cemeteries. Southern part of Vlaška street had from the end of 18th century till 1926 a Hortus Episcopalis i.e. bishop’s garden with fishponds. The only remainder of the garden today is gardener’s house that can still be seen in Vlaška. This street is famous also because our famous writer August Šenoa was born here, and you can see his statue near his birth house. You can find more on following link: http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/ves/; http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/senoa/

Katedrala – Cathedral

In 1094 king of Croatia and Hungary Ladislav I. established a diocese of Zagreb, and soon after the construction of the cathedral begun. The construction finished in 1217 but in 1242 the cathedral was severely damaged during the invasion of Tatars. After that a new cathedral was built and that one got in 16th century a defence wall (due to the Turkish invasions). But that cathedral was again damaged in the 1880 earthquake. The plans for the renovation were made by Herman Bollé, and the renovation lasted till 1902. Concerning the old inventory, you can find only several pews, pulpit, a fresco on the southern wall, and two altars. In the cathedral you can also see beautiful stain glass windows and a big inscription in Glagolitic letters on the western wall. Unfortunately, in 2020 earthquake the cathedral was damaged and is currently under reconstruction. You can find more on following link: http://www.zg-nadbiskupija.hr/home; http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/restoration/

Tržnica Dolac – Dolac Market

When you go through the passage Harmica you’ll see on the other side of the street Pod zidom between a patisserie and underwear shop a sign that says “Tržnica Dolac”. As you enter, you’ll immediately be surrounded by the smell of cheese and this will be the best prove that you are in the milk products heaven. Everything around you is white, white walls, white marble benches, white saleswomen clothes… In the central part on the benches local farmers sell their products, and next to the wall are products of local craftsmen. They all sell cheese, milk, milk products, homemade corn bread, cakes, pasta, herbs, tea, eggs, mushrooms… Zagreb’s speciality is soft cow cheese mixed with cream. It was and it still is my favourite dinner, and when you add some salt, chives and ground red pepper this meal turns into a very delicious spread. Chees and cream are main ingredients for two favourite dishes in Zagreb, štrukli and burek. Štukli are made of thin layers of pastry filled with soft cheese and cream. They can be served cooked or baked in the oven with cream. Burek has similar ingredients, but it’s only baked, it's greasier and with thicker layers of pastry. Burek comes from East, more precisely Turkey. You can try both of these meals close to Dolac, štrukli in Skalinska street in the restaurant “La Štruk”, and burek on the bakery of the Dolac’s mezzanine.

Tramvaj - Tramway, Take a tram number 6

that will take you through Praška, Zrinjevac, Strossmayer square, square of kralj (king) Tomislav to Glavni kolodvor (Central Railway station). On Strossmayerov trg (Strossmayer square) you can see HAZU (Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts). On Trg kralja Tomislava (square of king Tomislav) you will see the building of Art Pavillion.

Photo ofGlavni kolodvor - Zagreb Main Railway Station

Glavni kolodvor - Zagreb Main Railway Station

The building of the Main Railway Station is a historicist building designed by Hungarian railway stations expert Ferenc Pfaff and was built in 1892, 30 years after the first train arrived to Zagreb. Trg kralja Tomislava or Tomislavac was not always called like this. Initially it was called "Square L". When the Main Railway Station was built the square was named after the King Francis Joseph I. Only when Austro-Hungarian Monarchy dissolved, the square got its present name, Trg kralja Tomislava. Tomislavac is a favorite spot for both Zagreb residents and tourists. They visit Tomislavac in the spring for the magical beauty of nature, in the summer tourists enjoy concerts which are part of the Zagreb Cultural Summer, they love it in the winter when Tomislavac turns into an ice fairy tale and offers entertainment at the most beautiful skating rink in Zagreb not only to children but also to adults. On the other side of Tomislavac is the Art Pavilion. It was built for the Millennium Exhibition in Budapest in 1896 as a Croatian exhibition pavilion. Many people know that the Art Pavilion is actually a prefabricated building, but very few know that it is one of the first of its kind in Europe. It was designed by Floris Korbi, and Kalman Giergl, Hungarian architects. After the exhibition ended the iron-frame of the pavilion was dismantled brought to Zagreb, and with minor changes made by Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer, reassembled and placed on Trg kralja Tomislava 22. You can old photo on following link: https://digitalnezbirke.kgz.hr/?object=view&id=18239

Photo ofBotanički vrt - Botanical garden, Marulićev trg 9a (trams number 2, 4, 9 or on foot 5 minutes from the Trg kralja Tomislava)

Botanički vrt - Botanical garden, Marulićev trg 9a (trams number 2, 4, 9 or on foot 5 minutes from the Trg kralja Tomislava)

Botanical garden in Zagreb is in the city centre and has a surface of 4.7 hectares. The first professor of botany of Zagreb University, Prof. Bohuslav Jiruš asked from the University to fund a construction of the botanical garden for the needs of the students of botany. His successor prof. Heinz made that dream possible in 1889. The garden is mostly built in English style, and only small part is in French style i.e. symmetrical. In order to collect plants for the collection excursions were taken from the beginning of the Botanical garden’s history, and plants are still today collected in the same way. Due to that in the garden you can find today around 5000 taxa, and the garden itself represents a peaceful oasis in the busy city. You can find more on https://www.visitzagreb.hr/zagreb/zagreb-botanical-gardens/

Photo ofPučko otvoreno učilište Zagreb - Public Open University Zagreb (POUZ), Ulica grada Vukovara 68

Pučko otvoreno učilište Zagreb - Public Open University Zagreb (POUZ), Ulica grada Vukovara 68

Founded in 1912 as an institution for adult education and until present day it still has the same function. Open University moved several times until 1961 when they moved to the new building in Ulica grada Vukovara 68. Plans for the new building were made by Radovan Nikšić and Ninoslava Kučan. Architects won a prize for the building since it’s taken as a perfect example of modernist approach to construction best seen in lecture rooms, cabinets, library, cinema as well as communal space. It is special also because of its interior since everything was designed by Bernardo Bernardi, and the building is now on the list of protected cultural property. You can find more on following links: https://www.pou.hr/en; http://www1.zagreb.hr/galerijakd.nsf/c31dd4a135787898c1256f9600325af4/26820c4e85f0434dc1257f3e00492b6a?OpenDocument; http://darhiv.ffzg.unizg.hr/id/eprint/10703/1/Diplomski%20rad%20Iva%20Jurlina.pdf;

Tramvaj - Tramway

Take a tram number 13, 5 or 3, and exit on the tram stop Concert hall Vatroslav Lisinski

Photo ofKoncertna dvorana Vatroslav Lisinski - Concert Hall Vatroslav Lisinski

Koncertna dvorana Vatroslav Lisinski - Concert Hall Vatroslav Lisinski

In 2023 the Concert hall Lisinski will celebrate 50th birthday. It was named after famous Croatian composer Vatroslav Lisinski who composed first Croatian opera and you can see his bust welcoming you in front of the Concert hall. Back in 1957 it was decided that Zagreb needs a representative multifunctional hall and a plan from the architect Marijan Haberle won the tender. The official opening of the Hall was on December 29th, 1973 with the fragments from the Opera Porin and a folk song “Prosto zrakom ptica leti”. As of than till today on the stage of the big hall with 1 841 seats numerous concerts were performed by Zagrebačka filharmonija, visiting ensembles and soloists. Numerous concerts of popular and folk music were also held here as well as different meetings, congresses, movie projections. The stage of small hall with 305 seats hosts concerts of chamber music and drama plays and in the entrance hall there are different art exhibitions. The series Saturday Night at Lisinski has a special status since within this programme we have an opportunity to hear the best known foreign and Croatian artists performming. At the end of each concert audience has a chance to participate in the discussion held between soloists and conductors with critics and artists. This programme started in 1981 and the best evidence of the success of this programme is the City of Zagreb Award given to the Concert Hall Lisinski for this programme in 1989. "My husband and I are subscribed to this programme from the very first day, so from 1981. At that time subscriptions were bought from the culture animators in the companies you were working at. We chose this programme because by Saturday evening we would recover from work, and numerous family obligations but also because we liked to dance. Until recently after every Saturday evening concert in the lobby on the first floor there was a dance, and the music was performed by small bands. This gave us a chance to dance (in Zagreb we say “čagati”) with our friends, colleagues just as if though we were students again. In time the number of the dancers started to decline since rock generations were getting older and were slowly departing, so this beautiful tradition slowly died. What we have left though are the talks with artists after the concerts and the pride that our children are today subscribers of the same programme". The concert Hall was damaged in the 2020 Earthquake. You can find more about the hall on: http://www.lisinski.hr/en/ Now, go behind a Concert hall Vatroslav Lisinski

Paromlin

First Zagreb flour production industry started with the work in 1863 on Trnjanska cesta, at the time it was on the outskirts of the city, nowadays that is the city center. By the end of 19th century the mill was electrified, and they exported to the central Europe. During Second World War the mill was taken from the owners, and after the war it was nationalised. The mill produced flour till 1988 when it was severely damaged in a fire and after that the production stopped. The whole complex is in a bed state and out of use, but it’s under protection as a monument of early industrial architecture. Citizens of Zagreb still hope that one day this complex will be transformed into the building of Zagreb City Libraries. You can find more on: http://www.kgz.hr/en/about-us/zagreb-city-libraries-today/523; http://www1.zagreb.hr/galerijakd.nsf/c31dd4a135787898c1256f9600325af4/ba2196cd55b25aa5c1257f3e0048f8c5?OpenDocument

Glavni kolodvor - Zagreb Main Railway Station

is a historicist building designed by Hungarian railway stations expert Ferenc Pfaff and was built in 1892 hence 30 years after the first train arrived to Zagreb. Trg kralja Tomislava or Tomislavac was not always called like this. Initially it was called "Square L". When the Main Railway Station was built, the square was named after the King Francis Joseph I. Only when Austro-Hungarian Monarchy dissolved, the square got its present name, Trg kralja Tomislava. Tomislavac is a favorite spot for both Zagreb residents and tourists. They visit Tomislavac in the spring for the magical beauty of nature, in the summer tourists enjoy concerts which are part of the Zagreb Cultural Summer, they love it in the winter when Tomislavac turns into an ice fairy tale and offers entertainment at the most beautiful skating rink in Zagreb not only to children but also to adults. On the other side of Tomislavac is the Art Pavilion. It was built for the Millennium Exhibition in Budapest in 1896 as a Croatian exhibition pavilion. Many people know that the Art Pavilion is actually a prefabricated building, but very few know that it is one of the first of its kind in Europe. It was designed by Floris Korbi, and Kalman Giergl, Hungarian architects. After the exhibition ended the iron-frame of the pavilion was dismantled brought to Zagreb, and with minor changes made by Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer, reassembled and placed on Trg kralja Tomislava 22. You can find more on: https://digitalnezbirke.kgz.hr/?object=view&hash=2L3zeUpvnP; https://digitalnezbirke.kgz.hr/?object=view&id=18210; https://digitalnezbirke.kgz.hr/?object=view&id=18239; https://www.facebook.com/ledenipark/; https://www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr/en/home/

HEIM - Zagreb and modernism (EN)

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Waypoints

Zagrebačka pivovara, Pivana - Zagreb brewery, Pivana

Zapadni kolodvor – Zagreb West Railway Station

Rudolfove vojarne - Rudolf barracks

Crkva svetog Blaža - Church of Saint Blaise

Kino Kinoteka - Cinema 'Kinoteka'

Britanski trg ili Mali plac - British Square or Small Market

Mesnička ulica - Mesnička street

NAMA

Tramvaj - Tramway, Tram stop - tram number 12, next stop Kvaternikov trg

Kvaternikov trg - Kvaternik square

Badel 1862, Vlaška 116

Tržnica Kvatrić - Kvatrić market

Naselje Arko - Arko Estate

NAMA Kvaternikov trg - Nama on Kvaternik square

Tramvaj - Tramway

Draškovićeva

August Šenoa

Vlaška ulica - Vlaška street

Katedrala – Cathedral

Tržnica Dolac – Dolac Market

Tramvaj - Tramway, Take a tram number 6

Glavni kolodvor - Zagreb Main Railway Station

Botanički vrt - Botanical garden, Marulićev trg 9a (trams number 2, 4, 9 or on foot 5 minutes from the Trg kralja Tomislava)

Pučko otvoreno učilište Zagreb - Public Open University Zagreb (POUZ), Ulica grada Vukovara 68

Tramvaj - Tramway

Koncertna dvorana Vatroslav Lisinski - Concert Hall Vatroslav Lisinski

Paromlin

Glavni kolodvor - Zagreb Main Railway Station

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