Wikiloc | HEIM - Theatre, music and architecture (EN) Trail

Photo ofTrg bana Jelačića - The square of ban Josip Jelačić

Trg bana Jelačića - The square of ban Josip Jelačić

changed its name several times through history. One of the first names was Sajamski trg (market square), then in 18th century it changed name into Harmica. This name comes from the Hungarian word harmincz (thirty) because at the time traders had to pay a tax i.e. thirtieth part of the value of the goods they were selling, and they were paying it in a house that was on the square. The reminder of those days can be seen even today in the northern part of the square where you can see a passage with the name Harmica. In 1848 the square changed name into the square of ban Josip Jelačić, than in 1946 into the square of the Republic and in 1990 the name was changed back to Josip Jelačić. This square is the most important place in the life of Zagrebians, this is where we meet each other, where we say goodbyes and where we celebrate different events. If you are not in the mood for a walk around the city just sit in one of the cafes or at the base of the monument of the ban Jelačić and watch passers-by. On the square you can find Tourist info centre, a bank, supermarket (Prehrana and Müller), chocolate shop (Kraš), cafes, book shops, bakeries and what ever your heart desires. You can find more on following links: http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/life/; http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/jelacic/

Hrvatski glazbeni zavod (HGZ) - The Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6

In the music history of Zagreb, the Croatian Music Institute plays an important role. The Institute’s history goes back to 1827 when a group of music lovers and enthusiasts formed an association with the aim of taking care of the future music education of talented students as well as fostering the musical life of the city. In 1876 they got its own building, and the first concert here was held in December of the same year. Since in the same building were Croatian Music Institute, a library, music school and management it was decided to build an extension i.e. a new building. It was done in such a good way that from the inside it looks as if though it’s one building. The Croatian Music Institute has two concert halls, a very attractive stairway and underground area where jazz concerts are held. In the bigger concert hall, famous for its excellent acoustics, 130 concerts are held every season. Unfortunately in the earthquake of March 22nd 2020 the building was severely damaged.

Photo ofSveučilište u Zagrebu - The University of Zagreb

Sveučilište u Zagrebu - The University of Zagreb

was founded in 1874. But in Zagreb we had higher education already in 1669 when Jesuits opened their Academy. When it was founded Zagreb University had three faculties: Philosophy, Theology and Law. Back in 1874 they planned also a Faculty of Medicine, but that one was founded only in 1917. In the beginning all the lectures were held in the building of the old Academy (today Gornjogradska gimnazija – Upper Town High school) on Katarinski trg. In 1882 the University moved to the new building, opposite of the HNK (Croatian National Theatre) and they are still in the same building (together with the Faculty of Law). What is interesting about this building is that before the University moved in here were for a short period military hospital and tobacco factory. Today in front of the building you can see another sculpture made by Meštrović called “History of Croats” with Glagolitic letters. Unfortunately, in the earthquake of March 22nd, 2020 the building was severely damaged. You can read more on following links: http://www.unizg.hr/homepage/about-university/history/; https://mestrovic.hr/en/biography/

Photo ofHrvatsko narodno kazalište (HNK) - The Croatian National Theater, Trg Republike Hrvatske

Hrvatsko narodno kazalište (HNK) - The Croatian National Theater, Trg Republike Hrvatske

The Croatian National Theater was inaugurated by Franz Joseph I of Austria in 1895, and it took only 16 months for the Theater to be constructed. In spacious foyer on the first floor and along the stairways you can find numerous busts (Radev, Gotovac, Lisinski, pl. Zajc etc) made by famous Croatian artist, and on the ceiling of the foyer is a fresco of our famous painter Ivan Tišov. The ceremonial curtain is painted by another renowned Croatian painter Vlaho Bukovac, and it’s called Gundulićev san (The dream of Gundulić), and it depicts the most important historical figures from the period of Croatian National Rivaval (Ilirizam). Numerous world-famous theater companies, opera singers and choreographers performed here. In the theater you can attend performances of modern and classical ballet, contemporary music, and modern and classical drama. It’s important to stress that not even three wars in 20th century nor two suspension from 1889 to 1894, and the second one from 1902 to 1908 could stop the music in this Theater. More on theater you can find on following links: https://www.hnk.hr/en/about-us/about-theatre/; https://www.hnk.hr/hr/o-nama/o-zgradi/fotogalerija/

Zdenac života – The Fountain of Life, Trg Republike Hrvatske

Ivan Meštrović a famous Croatian sculptor made this fountain in 1905 and it was placed in front of the Theater in 1910. It’s deemed as one of the most beautiful fountains due to its creativity and simplicity. The fountain depicts the circle of life from the beginning (baby) till the end (old man). When it was placed here it was very scandalous because of the naked bodies, so they had to place it under the level of the theater and surround it by a stone wall, so that the citizens of Zagreb could walk here without blushing. You can read more on following links: https://www.ipu.hr/content/zivot-umjetnosti/ZU_43-44-1988_046-075_Ivancevic.pdf; https://mestrovic.hr/en/biography/

Muzej za Umjetnost i Obrt (MUO) - Museum of Arts and Crafts

was founded in 1880 on the proposal of Izidor Kršnjavi than the president of “Društvo umjetnosti” (“Art society”) and also the first director of the Museum. His wish was to display here all the artifacts created by Croatian craftsman and in the same time to use it for the production of different objects of applied art. This is the reason why only two years after the Museum was founded a Vocational school for crafts was opened. Both institutions moved into this building in 1888. The plans for the building were created by Herman Bollé. In the museum today is the biggest collection of Croatian cultural heritage and you can see how different objects developed from craft production to the industrial production. The collection has more than 160 000 different artifacts from furniture and textile to paintings, jewelry, and sacred art. Unfortunately, in the earthquake of March 22nd, 2020 the building was severely damaged. You can find out more on following links: MUO, https://en.muo.hr/about-2/; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEIAQy_bhFo

Photo ofMuzička akademija - University of Zagreb Academy of Music

Muzička akademija - University of Zagreb Academy of Music

In the same square, just opposite of the Croatian National Theatre is the new building that divided the citizens of Zagreb since its 21st century architecture is out of place in 19th century surroundings. Even though the Academy has a long history until 2015 the classrooms of the Academy were scattered all over Zagreb. Finally, in the beginning of 2015 the Academy moved to this building and found its permanent home. Besides numerous classrooms as well as the library the Academy has also 3 concert halls. You can learn more on following links: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Owd69OY70eM; http://www.muza.unizg.hr/english/about-the-academy/

Muzej Mimara - Mimara Museum

is placed in so called Školski forum (School Forum) complex. The idea of creating this complex was born in the end of 19th century with the purpose of placing here 3 schools, Music Institute, Gym, Seminary, and a church of Saint Blaise. The complex was never finished in the form it was designed in the beginning but one smaller part of the complex with changed design was finished, and in it were three schools. In the central part was one of the two High schools that was moved out in order to place here an Art collection of Ante and Wiltrud Topić Mimara. The museum opened in 1987 and has more than 3700 different artifacts. Occasionally you can also attend a concert of classical music in one of the halls on the first floor of the Museum. More on following links: http://www.mimara.hr/Info; http://kgalovic.blogspot.com/2015/03/izidor-krsnjavi-i-prva-hrvatska-moderna.html

Marulićev trg - Marulić square

was named after the father of Croatian literature Marko Marulić in 1928 , and you can see his statue in the middle of the square. The square itself is a part of Lenuci’s Horseshoe (The Green Horseshoe) and the construction of the square started at the end of 19th century. In 1913 Rudolf Lubynski designed the new National and University library (today Croatian State Archives), and before that on this same location was ice skating rink. A year after in 1914 a construction of Chemical institute began (today Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Technology), and in 1926 a building for the Institute of Physics (today Institute of social sciences “Ivo Pilar”, and Department of Geography). Unfortunately, in the earthquake of March 22nd, 2020 the building was severely damaged. More on following links: http://virtualna.nsk.hr/marulic/en/; http://botanickivrt.biol.pmf.hr/en/the-green-horseshoe/; http://www.arhiv.hr/en-gb/Visit-us/The-building; https://www.fkit.unizg.hr/en; https://www.pilar.hr/; https://www.pmf.unizg.hr/geog/en

Hrvatski državni Arhiv (HDA) - Croatian State Archives (HDA) , Trg Marka Marulića 21

The history of the State Archives officially began in 1643 with Ivan Zakmardi prothonotary who has based on the Parliament’s decision made a chest in which all official documents were finally kept in one place. Until 1764 the chest was in the Cathedral’s vestry, and then it was moved to the building of the Parliament on the square of Saint Mark. During time the number of documents increased, and they started to publish their own journal. Also more and more different documents were kept in the Archive so in 1913 when a new building of National and university library was built on Marulić square the Archive moved to one part of the building. In 1996 the State Archive got the right to use the whole building for their own needs, and the University library moved to a new building. More on following links: https://www.nsk.hr/en/; http://www.arhiv.hr/en-gb/Visit-us/The-building;

Photo ofBotanički vrt - Botanical garden, Marulićev trg 9a (trams number 2, 4, 9 or on foot 5 minutes from the Trg kralja Tomislava)

Botanički vrt - Botanical garden, Marulićev trg 9a (trams number 2, 4, 9 or on foot 5 minutes from the Trg kralja Tomislava)

Botanical garden in Zagreb is in the city centre and has a surface of 4.7 hectares. The first professor of botany of Zagreb University, Prof. Bohuslav Jiruš asked from the University to fund a construction of the botanical garden for the needs of the students of botany. His successor prof. Heinz made that dream possible in 1889. The garden is mostly built in English style, and only small part is in French style i.e. symmetrical. In order to collect plants for the collection excursions were taken from the beginning of the Botanical garden’s history, and plants are still today collected in the same way. Due to that in the garden you can find today around 5000 taxa, and the garden itself represents a peaceful oasis in the busy city. More on following link: http://botanickivrt.biol.pmf.hr/en/

Hotel Esplanade

After the Botanical garden you can visit the famous hotel in Zagreb, „Hotel Esplanade“. Hotel Esplanade attracted famous guests ever since it was opened in 1925 and some of them are: Josephine Baker, Charles Lindbergh, King of Egypt, Artur Rubinstein, Orson Welles, Elisabeth Taylor, Maria Callas, Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald etc. Some of these guests came to Zagreb by train, and not just any train but the famous Orient Express that ran from Paris to Istanbul. In Agatha Christie’s book “The Murder on the Orient Express” one Croatian city (Vinkovci) is mentioned. Outside of the hotel is a coffee bar where you can try an excellent coffee. "Next to the hotel Esplanade you can see a small restaurant called Le Bistro Esplanade, and it is built in the same art-deco style as the hotel. With the glass rooftop the restaurant resembles small French restaurants and at the same time here they serve both traditional Croatian and French cuisine. Here, you can try famous Esplanade štrukle, different meals prepared with Istrian truffles, wild asparagus, ceps etc. This was the first Zagreb’s restaurant with glass rooftop and hostesses in silk uniforms, the first one that served Italian dessert tiramisu, wine and champagne on glasses and coffee with small chocolate aside. A first Valentine day in Croatia was celebrated here in 1989. And if this is not enough to motivate you to visit this restaurant, I have to mention that this restaurant is in the Michelin’s guide." More on following links: https://www.esplanade.hr/EN/history.html; http://daz.hr/setnja-zagrebom-dokonog-purgera-2/; https://www.esplanade.hr/en/famous-guests.html; https://www.britannica.com/topic/Orient-Express; https://www.thebooktrail.com/book-trails/murder-orient-express-2/

Photo ofGlavni kolodvor - Zagreb Main Railway Station

Glavni kolodvor - Zagreb Main Railway Station

Next to the hotel Esplanade is Zagrebački Glavni kolodvor – Zagreb Main Railway Station. This is the biggest and the most important railway station in Zagreb and Croatia in a whole. The railway station is in the heart of Zagreb. It was opened in 1892 and at the time it was named Zagreb State Railway Station. The building of the Railway Station is made in the neoclassical style, decorated with numerous sculptures, and is a protected cultural property of the Republic of Croatia. From here take a tram number 1, that will take you to the Trg žrtava fašizma.

Photo ofDruštvo hrvatskih likovnih umjetnika (DHLU), Meštrović-Croatian Association of Artists (DHLU), Meštrović, Trg žrtava fašizma

Društvo hrvatskih likovnih umjetnika (DHLU), Meštrović-Croatian Association of Artists (DHLU), Meštrović, Trg žrtava fašizma

The building of the Croatian Association of Artists (DHLU) was built in 1938, and the project was made by Ivan Meštrović. The building is specific because of its round layout and it has panels made of the stone from the island of Brač. The first exhibition held here was “Pola vijeka hrvatske umjetnosti” (“Half a century of Croatian Art”) in 1938. With the beginning of the Second World War the building changed its purpose and became a mosque. At the time the architect Stjepan Planić designed a plans for adding a fountain and three minarets in front of the building. In 1949 minarets were removed and the building changed its purpose once again and here was a Museum of national liberation, and finally in the beginning of the 1990s the building got back its original purpose i.e. a gallery. More on following links: https://www.hdlu.hr/eng/; https://mestrovic.hr/en/biography/; https://www.ipu.hr/content/knjige/Stjepan-Planic_katalog-izlozbe_005-015_uvodnik.pdf

Tramvaj - Tramway

From here take a tram number 17 in the direction Prečko and on the next stop Trg hrvatskih velikana you should go out of the tram.

Photo ofTrg hrvatskih velikana - Square of Croatian greats

Trg hrvatskih velikana - Square of Croatian greats

Until the end of the First world war on this square used to be a fairground since this marked was at one point the end of the city from the eastern side. In 1928 in a new city regulatory plan the fairground was moved, and this was transformed into a square. This square is today one of the most beautiful squares in the city that is bypassed by streets and tram rails connecting Jurišićeva, Draškovićeva and the street of Franjo Rački with Trg žrtava fašizma, and on the eastern side the square borders with Martićeva street. The square is dominated by two symmetric buildings that represent Modernism in architecture. One is a Stock exchange palace (today Croatian National Bank) the plans of which were made by Viktor Kovačić, and the architect of the second one is Aladar Barany who made plans for the palace of Ministry of science, education and sport. In 1995 two triangle looking fountains made by Mihajlo Kranjc were added so that they would create a harmonious unity in this square. On the corner of Jurišićeva is another building from the era of modernism created by architect Bela Auer in 1929, and on the corner of Draškovićeva is the Janeković building made by architect Hugo Ehrlich in 1928. The name of the square changed in accordance with the political circumstances. Back in 1928 this was the Stock exchange square (Trg Burze), than from 1941 to 1945 the square of Munich victims (Trg münchenskih žrtava), from 1946 the square of Joža Vlahović, from 1990 again the Stock exchange square, and as of 2001 Trg hrvatskih velikana. On the eastern side of the square is a big terrace of a confectionary that is hidden among the trees, and it gives the most beautiful view on the square and the fountains. From here go to the right to the street Draškovićeva, and at the cross section turn to the left to the street Ribnjak, and after 5 minutes walk you will reach park Ribnjak

Park Ribnjak

is one of the most beautiful city parks. It is located between Ribnjak Street in the east and the walls of the Zagreb’s Cathedral. In the old times here where Park Ribnjak is today used to be an artificial pond, which received water from the Medveščak stream. When the pond was drained in 1830 thanks to the Bishop Alagović in the same place an English-style park was designed. The idea was that this will be a sculpture park, but this idea wasn’t unfortunately fully realized. Today numerous events are organized here during summer such as concerts, picnics etc.

Katedrala– Cathedral

(http://www.zg-nadbiskupija.hr/home) In 1094 king of Croatia and Hungary Ladislav I. established a diocese of Zagreb, and soon after the construction of the cathedral begun. The construction finished in 1217 but in 1242 the cathedral was severely damaged during the invasion of Tatars. After that a new cathedral was built and that one got in 16th century a defence wall (due to the Turkish invasions). But that cathedral was also damaged in the 1880 earthquake. The plans for the renovation were made by Herman Bollé (http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/restoration/), and the renovation lasted till 1902. Concerning the old inventory, you can find only several pews, pulpit, a fresco on the southern wall, and two altars. In the cathedral you can also see beautiful stain glass windows and a big inscription in Glagolitic letters on the western wall. Unfortunately, in 2020 earthquake the cathedral was damaged and is currently under reconstruction.

Dolac Market

has always been a favourite market in Zagreb. The old market was at Trg bana Jelačića and it was called Harmica. This name comes from the Hungarian word harmincz (thirty) because at the time traders had to pay a tax i.e. thirtieth part of the value of the goods they were selling, and they were paying it in a house that was on the square. The reminder of those days can be seen even today in the northern part of the square where you can see a passage with the name Harmica. In 1930 they moved the market to the old part of the city Dolac, next to Kaptol. So, the market changed the name to Dolac. The Dolac is the biggest, most famous and the most important market in Zagreb. It’s located in the heart of the city.

Photo ofTrg bana Josipa Jelačića - The square of ban Josip Jelačić

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića - The square of ban Josip Jelačić

changed its name several times through history. One of the first names was sajamski trg (market square), then in the 18th century it changed name into Harmica. This name comes from the Hungarian word harmincz (thirty) because at the time traders had to pay a tax i.e. thirtieth part of the value of the goods they were selling, and they were paying it in a house that was on the square. The reminder of those days can be seen even today in the northern part of the square where you can see a passage with the name Harmica. In 1848 the square changed name into the square of ban Josip Jelačić, than in 1946 into the square of the Republic and in 1990 the name was changed back to Josip Jelačić. On the Trg bana Jelačića number 5 is a house build in 1905 for Eugen Rado. Rado was a dentist and in this building was his flat as well as his office with the view on the main square. You will recognize the building by the statues of the Asclepius and Hygiea. On the Trg bana Jelačića number 4 is another palace build in 1907 called Palace Poppović after the owner Fedor Poppović who was a trader. If you look up you’ll see a beautiful relief made by Ivan Meštrović. The relief is 5 meters tall and it represents farmers and trade. Farmers as a reminder of a house with a shop that was on that same place before (and they were selling grains), and trade since the owner was trader. This was the first public monument made by Meštrović in Zagreb. This square is the most important place in the life of Zagrebians, this is where we meet each other, where we say goodbyes and where we celebrate different events. If you are not in the mood for a walk around the city just sit in one of the cafes or at the base of the monument of the ban Jelačić and watch passers-by. On the square you can find Tourist info centre, a bank, supermarket (Prehrana and Müller), chocolate shop (Kraš), cafes, book shops, bakeries and what ever your heart desires. More on following links: http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/life/; http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/jelacic/; http://athena.muo.hr/?object=detail&id=61265; https://mestrovic.hr/en/biography/

HEIM - Theatre, music and architecture (EN)

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