Wikiloc | HEIM - Gornji grad and Kaptol - history and culture (EN) Trail

Trg bana Jelačića - The square of ban Josip Jelačić

changed its name several times through history. One of the first names was sajamski trg (market square), then in the 18th century it changed name into Harmica. This name comes from the Hungarian word harmincz (thirty) because at the time traders had to pay a tax i.e. thirtieth part of the value of the goods they were selling, and they were paying it in a house that was on the square. The reminder of those days can be seen even today in the northern part of the square where you can see a passage with the name Harmica. In 1848 the square changed name into the square of ban Josip Jelačić, than in 1946 into the square of the Republic and in 1990 the name was changed back to Josip Jelačić. This square is the most important place in the life of Zagrebians, this is where we meet each other, where we say goodbyes and where we celebrate different events. If you are not in the mood for a walk around the city just sit in one of the cafes or at the base of the monument of the ban Jelačić and watch passers-by. On the square you can find Tourist info centre, a bank, supermarket (Prehrana and Mueller), chocolate shop (Kraš), cafes, book shops, bakeries and what ever your heart desires. More on following links: http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/life/; http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/jelacic/

Katedrala – Cathedral

In 1094 king of Croatia and Hungary Ladislav I. established a diocese of Zagreb, and soon after the construction of the cathedral begun. The construction finished in 1217 but in 1242 the cathedral was severely damaged during the invasion of Tatars. After that a new cathedral was built and that one got in 16th century a defence wall (due to the Turkish invasions). But that cathedral was also damaged in the 1880 earthquake. The plans for the renovation were made by Herman Bollé, and the renovation lasted till 1902. Concerning the old inventory, you can find only several pews, pulpit, a fresco on the southern wall, and two altars. In the cathedral you can also see beautiful stain glass windows and a big inscription in Glagolitic letters on the western wall. Unfortunately, in 2020 earthquake the cathedral was damaged and is currently under reconstruction. More about the Cathedral on the following links: http://www.zg-nadbiskupija.hr/home; http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/restoration/;

Tržnica Dolac – Dolac Market

When you go through the passage Harmica you’ll see on the other side of the street Pod zidom between a patisseries and underwear shop a sign that says “Tržnica Dolac”. Markets are the only place in the city where you can buy fresh domestic products such as fruits and vegetables, cheese and fresh cream, eggs, fish, meat, and meat products.The year 1242 is recognized as the year when first markets were opened in Zagreb. In that year Gradec (today Gornji grad – Upper Town) obtained the right to organize market. This right was given to Zagreb by Hungarian king Bela IV who gave Zagreb, in 1242, the status of the free royal city and by doing so recognized the sanctuary Zagreb provided for him when he fled Hungary during Tatar invasion on Hungary and thus his life was saved. The year in which Zagreb’s first market officially began working is 1850 when Gradec and Kaptol united in one city, the city of Zagreb. The first market was at the time located in front of the Cathedral. In the end of 19th century, the market was moved to Harmica, today square of ban Jelačić. Since in the 17th century there was no longer a fear of Turkish invasions the city began to grow under the defence walls of Gradec and Kaptol. At the same time the number of the cities’ inhabitants started to grow as well, and Harmica with its natural spring in 1852 became an ideal place for the city market. The name harmica is derived from the Hungarian word for thirty, since here was the location where the vendors had to pay a tax that amounted to the thirtieth part of the value of the goods they were selling. In 1928 city’s Council brought forward the decision to build the new city’s central market north of Harmica, on the location Dolac 2. Zagreb has by the end of 19th century developed as an industrial city and now needed a bigger market in order to accommodate the needs of its citizens. For that purpose, a part of old Kaptol between the Cathedral and Church of Saint Mary (the church is still on the same place, on the western side of Dolac) with its narrow streets and single-story houses was demolished. The marked itself extends on four levels. In the underground of Dolac are storehouses, on the ground floor is an indoor market that houses butcher shops, milk and dairy product shops and bakeries. As you enter, you’ll immediately be surrounded by the smell of cheese and this will be the best prove that you are in the milk products heaven. Everything around you is white, white walls, white marble benches, white saleswomen clothes… In the central part on the benches local farmers sell their products, and next to the wall are products of local craftsmen. They all sell cheese, milk, milk products, homemade corn bread, cakes, pasta, herbs, tea, eggs, mushrooms… Zagreb’s speciality is soft cow cheese mixed with cream. It was and it still is my favourite dinner, and when you add some salt, chives and ground red pepper this meal turns into a very delicious spread. Chees and cream are main ingredients for two favourite dishes in Zagreb, štrukli and burek. Štukli are made of thin layers of pastry filled with cheese and cream. They can be served cooked or baked in the oven with cream. Burek has similar ingredients, but it’s only baked, it's greasier and with thicker layers of pastry. Burek comes from East, more precisely Turkey. You can try both of these meals close to Dolac, štrukli in Skalinska street in the restaurant “La Štruk”, and burek on the bakery of the Dolac’s mezzanine. On the mezzanine is a whole range of restaurants that prepare national meals made from the groceries bought at Dolac. On the top terrace is the central part of Dolac. Here you can again find dairy products, green market, and fishmongers. Finally, the fourth level is a flower market with the monument dedicated to Kerempuh, folk poet. Construction od Dolac ended in 1930 when the city of Zagreb founded a company “Tržnice Zagreb” of which all Zagreb’s markets became part: Dolac (opened in 1930), Međašni plac – today Kvatrić market, Tržnica pod Črešnjom (today market Trešnjevački plac), and Veletržnica with central building – commodity exchange market (today market Branimirac).

Photo ofCrkva sv. Franje - The church of Saint Francis of Assisi, Kaptol 9

Crkva sv. Franje - The church of Saint Francis of Assisi, Kaptol 9

was consecrated in 13th century, and it was probably constructed after the Tatar invasion. The legend says that the Franciscans had a monastery and church here even earlier than 13th century, and that saint Francis himself visited this monastery. In the 1880 earthquake church and monastery were severely damaged, and the reconstruction was done by Herman Bollé. In the second half of 20th century a painter Ivan Dulčić painted stain glass windows within which you’ll see words from saint Francis’s “The Canticle of Brother Sun”. Unfortunately, in 2020 earthquake both church and monastery were damaged and are currently under reconstruction. You can read more about the history of this church on the following links: http://www.ofm.hr/lokacija/zagreb-kaptol-samostan-sv-franje-asiskog/; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEIAQy_bhFo; https://www.lovezagreb.hr/topics/heartbeat-of-zagreb/one-of-the-greatest-herman-bolle; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFQDzHPzONg; https://www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr/en/portfolios/ivo-dulcic-1916-1975-ivo-ducics-mediterranean-the-centenary-of-birth/

Photo ofTkalčićeva – Street Ivana Tkalčića

Tkalčićeva – Street Ivana Tkalčića

This very vivid street in the heart of Zagreb developed along the stream Medveščak that in the middle ages divided two parts of Zagreb Gradec and Kaptol. The street got its name from a Croatian historian and priest Ivan Krstitelj Tkalčić. "When I was around ten years old I started to go all alone to “the city” (as we in Zagreb call city centre) that is to Jelačić square, to Dolac market, Sunday matinee, or to buy something for the school. Whenever I was going alone my mom would always warn me, just as if though I was a Red Riding Hood going to see the Grandmother: “Be careful, and I don’t want to see you in Tkalčićeva, Kožarska, Harmica or Pod Zidom. That is where drunks and prostitutes hang out and you’ll only encounter problems”. These streets had a bed reputation until Tkalčićeva and Dolac were renovated and abandoned and crumbling streets transformed into picturesque and charming streets full of cafes, restaurants, and galleries. But Kožarska remained a little “wild” even today. It winds alongside Tkalčićeva under the walls of Gradec, hidden away from the view. On two locations it is even abruptly cut by surrounding buildings. However, there are no more red lanterns here that once gave quite a clear picture of what is offered in this street. Back in those days Tkalčićeva and Kožarska were famous in Zagreb because of prostitution. Until 19th century street Tkalčićeva did not exist. Where the street is today once used to be a brook Medveščak, and Kožarska ran along this brook. Kožarska was named after the tanners who were producing leather, and, in the process, they were polluting the brook. Because of that city’s government decided in the end of 19th century to cover the brook. Tkalčićeva street was than build where once was a small street “Nad potokom” that ran just a little above and along the brook. Tkalčićeva is today another “špica” of Zagreb (just like the one in Bogovićeva). Due to Tkalčićeva street Kožarska lost on its length and lost its direction – from one street two new parts were created. Some hundred years ago this was a very vivid street during the night. This part of Zagreb was known as Zagreb’s “Red Light District” with brothels full of young, beautiful girls. At the time this was a legitimate job. First brothel was opened in Kožarska, and the procedure to open a brothel was very simple. One had to go to the city council and apply for the license. “Ladies of the night” were usually coming from the surrounding villages but also from Zagreb. They all had to undergo the medical check-up twice a week, but it was forbidden to advertise these places. Nevertheless, everyone knew where to go for the “special treatment”. The news about brothels did not travel only by word, but there were also symbols that would let you know what can be found behind the closed doors. The symbol was a figurine of a dwarf, and if the dwarf was lying down it meant that the lady was already entertaining. Based on the number of brothel Zagreb was among leading cities in Europe. This title Zagreb had until the end of the Second World War when almost every house in Tkalčićeva and Kožarska was a brothel. As a reminder on those glory days in Tkalčićeva 45 is a monument dedicated to all “ladies of the night”. She is leaning through the window offering her services to the passers-by. Special charm of Kožarska is that it kept secrecy and charm of medieval Zagreb." Houses from 19th century kept their original form and you can see them only on the eastern side because on the other side were once defence walls of Gradec and gardens. You can enter the street from the small park that has a monument dedicated to a writer and journalist Marija Jurić Zagorka, behind the house with the sun watch, or you can reach it from Radićeva ulica taking Male stube (in English Small stairs). Today this is almost forgotten street in which it appears as if though the time stopped. This is the reason why you should discover this street. In 1953 this street became a part of Zagreb’s protected cultural property. In the second half of 20th century the street saw its bottom and reached the top again. After the Second World War there were no investments, so the houses began to decay, and the street lost its popularity. Then in 1980s the houses were renovated, new bars and restaurants opened and today this is a colourful witness of Zagreb’s history that attracts many tourists and gathers all Zagreb’s generations. More on following links: http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/free_town/; http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/kaptol/

Marija Jurić Zagorka

(1873-1957), Croatian writer and first woman journalist in Croatia. She came to Zagreb 1883 to attend school but she gave up the education and moved from Zagreb, and in 1892 she was forced to get married. Three years later she left her husband and moved back to Zagreb, and thanks to the bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer she started to work as a journalist in a magazine Obzor. She worked in Obzor from 1896 till 1917 and she wrote about Hungarian politics (she was a foreign correspondent from Budapest), she wrote biographies, short stories, travel diaries etc. When chief editor of Obzor and his deputy were for a short period of time imprisoned she acted as a chief editor of the magazine. After leaving Obzor in 1917 she started and edited several magazines (Zabavnik, Ženski list, Hrvatica). As of 1910 she dedicated majority of her time to writing historical novels in sequels. She was also a writer of a first Croatian detective novel “Kneginja iz Petrinjske ulice”. She died in her apartment in Dolac 8, in November 1957. She was buried on Mirogoj, and her apartment became a memorial collection and it’s opened for visits (but you have to announce your visit in advance, http://zagorka.net/stan-marije-juric-zagorke/). And if you want to see how Zagorka looked in Tkalčićeva street you can see her statue made by sculptor Stjepan Gračan, and it was placed there in 1991 . More on Zagorka: http://zagorka.net/biografija/; http://dangerouswomenproject.org/2016/11/02/marija-juric-zagorka/; https://web.archive.org/web/20060105195023/; http://germslav.byu.edu/perspectives/2005/Woods_K.pdf; https://www.infozagreb.hr/explore-zagreb/attractions/public-monuments/marija-juric-zagorka-54a11ce4f04df&lang=en

Krvavi most - Bloody bridge

The street was named after the bridge that used to be on this exact place and was overpassing brook Medveščak. This bridge connected Upper Town and Kaptol, and its real name was Pisani most (Bright bridge) because it was wooden and colored in bright colors. Unfortunately, citizens of these two cities fought a lot so the bridge was called Bloody bridge. By the end of 19th century the brook was covered and instead of bridge a street was built. Owners of the houses in the street were predominantly craftsman and traders, and on number 2 where today is a city library Marija Jurić Zagorka in 1887 a first telephone line was installed by Wilim Schwartz the owner of the company. More on following links: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2KvE6nDcXY; http://www.mgz.hr/en/exhibitions/zagreb-telephony-%e2%80%93-the-zlatko-ivkovi%c4%87-telephone-collection,37.html

Photo ofRadićeva ulica - Radićeva street

Radićeva ulica - Radićeva street

This street used to be called Duga ulica or Long street, since it was the longest street that connected the city (now Upper Town) and suburbs (today Downtown). The best witnesses of this streets once rich history are the façades of the buildings from 18th and 19th century. Once in this street shopkeepers were numerous craftsmen. This was the street where you could buy hand-made shoes, hand-made suits and dresses, this was the street in which a father of our famous writer August Šenoa had a pastry shop. Those days are long gone, but this remained a very popular street with numerous souvenir shops, cafes, restaurants etc. And as you approach Kamenita vrata (the Stone gate), on your left side you can still see one or two old shops that survived throughout the history. More on following links: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqOUqfGhvdk; http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/senoa/; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uw70iPUOEGY

Kamenita vrata - Stone gate

is one of the symbols of Zagreb. It was built in 13th century and as of 1760 till today it is unchanged. Within the gate is a chapel that holds a painting of Our Lady of the Stone gate (Majka Božja od Kamenitih vrata) patron saint of the city of Zagreb. This painting survived a great fire in 1731 (May 31st). Many people stop here to say their prayers in silence and express their gratitude. On the walls you can see many thank-you plaques put there by the worshipers. More on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxMpSHcUPIo; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rNwO-A-IZI; https://digitalna.nsk.hr/pb/?object=info&id=15070; https://digitalna.nsk.hr/pb/?object=view&id=10424&tify={%22view%22:%22scan%22}

Photo ofGornjogradska ljekarna 'K crnom orlu' – Upper Town Pharmacy “K crnom orlu”, Kamenita ul. 9

Gornjogradska ljekarna 'K crnom orlu' – Upper Town Pharmacy “K crnom orlu”, Kamenita ul. 9

Zagreb’s oldest pharmacy was opened in 1355 and the first pharmacist was an Italian certain Jacobus apothecaries. The official name of the pharmacy was Apotheca civitatensis ad aquillam nigram (City's pharmacy “Black Eagle”). Within the pharmacy you can find today a small museum that presents Zagreb’s as well as Croatia’s pharmaceutical history. More on the pharmacy: http://www.mgz.hr/en/exhibitions/i-jacobus-apothecarius---from-the-apothecary-to-industry,471.html

Photo ofPlemićki konvikt - Seminary, Habdelićeva 1

Plemićki konvikt - Seminary, Habdelićeva 1

In 1627 Jesuits were given a house with a garden on the Upper Town, and their plan was to open a boarding school for students coming from poor families. By the middle of 18th century here was a so-called noble seminary (the name coming from the fact that students’ tuitions were paid by members of Croatian nobility). Until 1913 students of the seminary continuously performed plays by Goldoni, Kotzebuea and famous Zagreb writer Tituš Brezovački. In the mid-70s of the last century in the basement of the building was one of Zagreb’s most popular jazz clubs as well as alternative club scenes – Lapidarij. Today this is a Grammar school Tituš Brezovački. Unfortunately, in the earthquake of March 22nd, 2020 the building was severely damaged. You can find more about school on the following link: http://www1.zagreb.hr/galerijakd.nsf/c31dd4a135787898c1256f9600325af4/d7dfe079fab8e787c1257f3e00490cb5?OpenDocument

Preporodna dvorana - Revival Stateroom, Opatička 18

National Hall of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts was built in 1838. In the so-called Revival Stateroom on the first floor, concerts and numerous ceremonies were celebrated and as of 1895 it was part of Zagreb’s concert life. One of the last concerts held here in the end of 19th century was the one that choral society Kolo organized in the honour of the opening of the Jugoslav Academy of Sciences and Arts. On this concert even bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer was present. Today this palace is the centre of Croatian musicology, and even today concerts are held here occasionally. You can learn more on: http://info.hazu.hr/en/about_academy/foundation_of_academy/narodni_dom_en/; http://info.hazu.hr/en/about_academy/foundation_of_academy/strossmayer_en/

Photo ofMuzej grada Zagreba (MGZ) - The Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20

Muzej grada Zagreba (MGZ) - The Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20

The nuns of the Poor Clares or Order of Saint Clare, a branch of the Franciscan order came to Zagreb in 1646. They nurtured a chamber-music and we conclude that based on the instruments that were in their possession (violin and Clavichord, an instrument that has preceded the piano). After the monastery was shut down the building was used for the performances of German traveling theatre companies. Later, this building had different purposes and as of 1947 the Zagreb City Museum fond its home here. The Museum holds a very rich collection of exhibits connected to the musical life of Zagreb, and even today concerts are held in the Museum. In 1907 Družba braće hrvatskog zmaja/ Brethren of the Croatian Dragon Society founded the City Museum. Museum’s first home was inside the Stone Gate, but since that space became too small, museum moved several times. Finally, in 1947 they moved to Opatička 20 in a renovated former Convent of the Poor Clares. This museum has a very rich collections important for the research of local history. You can find more about the museum on the following links: http://www.mgz.hr/en/home/; http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/poor_clares/

Photo ofMatejina, Corner of Basaričekova and Demetrova

Matejina, Corner of Basaričekova and Demetrova

On this place was once one of the oldest and most famous taverns in Zagreb that was named after Mijo Matejna (the son in law of the previous owner). Until the end of 18th century in this tavern were performed theatre plays of German traveling theatre companies. One of the most famous visitors of Matejna was Antun Gustav Matoš. Unfortunately, in 1936 a house in which was the tavern was wracked down and on the same place a new villa for the industrialist Arko (one of the founders of the Zagreb Stock Exchange) was built. In that house is today The Croatian Writers’ Society. A short movie about these types of establishment you can see on the following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSAjMKRfZ5g. More on Matejina: https://www.nsk.hr/en/presentation-of-the-virtual-collection-of-the-works-of-antun-gustav-matos/; https://magazin.hrt.hr/426208/vodimo-vas-u-kucu-vladimira-i-pipe-arko; https://hrvatskodrustvopisaca.hr/en/about-us

Tko pjeva zlo ne misli - movie

The most famous building in Basaričekova Street is the one on number 11 because the famous movie by Krešo Golik „Tko pjeva zlo ne misli“ (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066461/) was filmed in the yard of this house. House on number 9 is a tavern called "Kod Žnidaršića". This tavern was regularly visited by one of the main characters in the movie, Mr. Šafranek. The tavern was opened in 1830 and it is still opened today, but now it’s called „Pod starim krovovima“.

Photo ofPivovara u Basaričekovoj - Brewery in Basaričekova Street

Pivovara u Basaričekovoj - Brewery in Basaričekova Street

Basaričekova ulica (Basariček Street) connects St. Mark's Square and Demetrova Street on Upper Town. It was named after the Croatian politician Đuro Basariček, who was one of the victims of the assassination in the Belgrade National Assembly on June 20, 1928. It is interesting that on the street’s nameplate instead of Basaričekova it is written Bararičkova ulica. Beer was produced in Zagreb since 14th century, but first real brewery opened in 1740 in present-day Basaričekova street on number 4. At the time the street was called Pivarska i.e. Brewery street. Unfortunately, the business was slow, so master brewer Hosz, owner of the brewery handed it over to the municipality that soon moved the brewery to the Down town. There is still a plaque that reminds us where the Brewery once was.

Photo ofAtelijer Meštrović - Atelier Meštrović, Mletačka 8

Atelijer Meštrović - Atelier Meštrović, Mletačka 8

What is special in this museum is the permanent exhibition of the works of Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović who gave an exceptional contribution not only to Croatian but also world art. In artistic sense this is a very representative atelier. Meštrović bought this house and renovated it into a family house with atelier. Since renovation was done by renowned Croatian architects and artists it has an additional artistic value. And one curiosity for the end, his first neighbor was his ex-wife. More about the atelier you can find on the following link: https://mestrovic.hr/en/museum/atelijer-mestrovic/; https://mestrovic.hr/en/biography/

Photo ofPalača Jelačić - Palace Jelačić, The Collection of Mechanical Music Automat of Ivan Gerersdorfer, Demetrova 7

Palača Jelačić - Palace Jelačić, The Collection of Mechanical Music Automat of Ivan Gerersdorfer, Demetrova 7

In one of the most beautiful palaces of the Upper Town (Palace Jelačić) is situated a valuable collection of 27 music automats from 19th century and the beginning of 20th century. Part of this collection is exhibited and can be seen and heard but in the building of the Zagreb City Museum, where you can see numerous musical boxes and phonographs. You can find more on the following links: http://www.mgz.hr/en/online/

Photo ofTrg svetog Marka – Markov trg - The square of Saint Mark’s

Trg svetog Marka – Markov trg - The square of Saint Mark’s

Developed in 13th century around the church of saint Mark’s. Until 19th century numerous fairs were held on the square, and the most famous one was Fair of Saint Mark’s. This fair lasted for two weeks and it took place around the day of saint Mark’s (25th of April). Besides the church on this square you can see a building of Croatian Parliament, Croatian Government, former Stanković theatre (today town hall). On the number 9 is a house where ban (viceroy) Ignjat Gyulay used to live, and today it’s owned by the Museum of the City of Zagreb. In the courtyard of the house is a smaller building where a studio of Radio Zagreb was and from where on May 15th, 1926 a first radio show was broadcasted. You can learn more about the square on the following links: https://www.infozagreb.hr/explore-zagreb/attractions/squares/st-marks-square&lang=en; http://www.skupstina.zagreb.hr/skupstina-virtualna-setnja/index.htm; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_9eo4C29zI

Photo ofCrkva sv. Marka - Saint Mark's Church

Crkva sv. Marka - Saint Mark's Church

was built by Venetian merchants and was first mentioned in 1334. It's one of the oldest buildings in Gradec (Grič) and today is a symbol of Zagreb mainly because of its colourful roof which has two significant coats of arms. One represents the triune kingdom of Croatia-Dalmatia-Slavonia and another one is that of the city of Zagreb. However, the church got its roof and its present-day shape in the neo-Gothic style in the 19th century after a devastating earthquake and a thorough restoration. The renovation was done by Herman Bollé based on designs of architect Fridrich Schmidt. There were even plans to demolish the church completely and create the space for the famous fair of St. Mark. Throughout the centuries, the church suffered many times from earthquakes and fires, but it has always been rebuilt and expanded. In the church of St. Mark on the altar of St. Cross Croatian Bans (vice-kings) and city judges were sworn in. Gradec was a city of free citizens and craftsmen who were united in guilds and had their flags and altars in the church. The legend says that Matija Gubec, the leader of the Peasant Uprising in 1537 was executed on the square in front of the church. The execution was bloody, and Gubec was crowned with glowing crown and quartered. Saint Mark's Church plays a very active role in the music life of the modern-day Zagreb, but it had an important role in the old Gradec as well. The church had organs already in the 14th century, and the ones that can be seen in the church today date back to 1891 and were made by a famous pipe organ-maker Ferdo Heferer. From the beginning of 19th century regular vocal-instrumental masses took place and they remained till the present day. As of 1999 the Festival of Saint Mark is held in this church and it offers beautiful vocal and pipe organ concerts performed by foreign and domestic musicians. More on: http://www.festivalsvmarka.hr/onama_eng.php; https://www.oxfordmusiconline.com/grovemusic/grovemusic/abstract/10.1093/gmo/9781561592630.001.0001/omo-9781561592630-e-0002270846; https://www.visitzagreb.hr/zagreb/saint-marks-church/

Photo ofZgrada Vlade - Building of the Government

Zgrada Vlade - Building of the Government

Central part of the square of Saint Mark’s is taken by the church of the same name famous for its colorful roof with two coats of arms. East and west of the church are two highest governing bodies in the Republic of Croatia: Government and Parliament. These two institutions are only few hundred meters apart. So little and yet through history there were so many tensions in their cooperation and connected to the work they do. Seat of the Government of the Republic of Croatia is on Banski dvori at square of Sveti Marko number 1 and 2. The complex is on the protected cultural heritage list of the Republic of Croatia. Until 1808 the complex made of two four-winged Baroque Classicistic palaces was owned by Ferdinand Kulmer. Ban (Viceroy) Ignac Gyulya bought it and this became multifunctional building. Here was a lodging of a ban, Court Seat, and public records, royal ledgers and parliaments minutes were kept also here. It was called palace of ban (banska palača in Croatian) and later court of ban (banski dvori in Croatian). Until 1918 this was a home of Croatian bans’, Seat of Archive, Land Court, Ban’s Table, and Parliament Chamber. For more than 200 years this is a seat of Croatia’s executive power. Today in this building is Office of the Prime minister of the Republic of Croatia, General Secretariat of the Government and relating services, Legislation Office, Office for the Protocol and Offices of the deputy Prime minister. You can find more about its history on the following web-sites: https://vlada.gov.hr/; https://vlada.gov.hr/banski-dvori-11336/11336, and https://hr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banski_dvori

Zgrada Sabora - Parliament building

Central part of the square of Saint Mark’s is taken by the church of the same name famous for its colorful roof with two coats of arms. East and west of the church are two highest governing bodies in the Republic of Croatia: Government and Parliament. These two institutions are only few hundred meters apart. So little and yet through history there were so many tensions in their cooperation and connected to the work they do. Croatian Parliament (we call it Sabor) is a representative body of citizens and it’s the main legislative power in the Republic of Croatia. Parliament has 160 representatives, elected in the direct elections by a secret ballot for a period of 4 years. The Parliament is in the palace on the eastern part of the square. The building is from the 1911 and the design was made by Lav Kaldo and Karlo Sussan. In the parliament building you can recognize several different styles i.e. Classicism, Neo-Renaissance and Art Nouveau and it’s a monument of cultural heritage. You can find more on Sabor and its history on the following web-sites: https://www.sabor.hr/en/about-parliament/history/croatian-parliament-palace, and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Croatian_Parliament

Photo ofTrg sv. Marka - Square of Saint Mark's - Radio Zagreb

Trg sv. Marka - Square of Saint Mark's - Radio Zagreb

The square of Saint Mark’s developed in 13th century around the church of Saint Mark’s. Until 19th century numerous fairs were held on the square, and the most famous one was Fair of Saint Mark’s. This fair lasted for two weeks and it took place around the day of Saint Mark’s (25th of April). Besides the church on this square you can see a building of Croatian Parliament, Croatian Government, former Stanković theatre (today town hall). On number 9 is a house where ban (viceroy) Ignjat Gyulay used to live, and today it’s owned by the Museum of the City of Zagreb. In the courtyard of the house is a smaller building where a studio of Radio Zagreb was and from where on May 15th, 1926 a first radio show was broadcast. More on following links: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_9eo4C29zI; http://www.skupstina.zagreb.hr/skupstina-virtualna-setnja/index.htm

Stankovićevo kazalište - Stanković Theatre

The first purposefully built theatre in Zagreb was build on the corner of the Trg sv. Marko and Ćirilometodska street. Money for the construction was mostly donated by a merchant Kristofor Stanković who won the main prize on the lottery. A first play was performed here in 1835, and in 1846 a first Croatian opera Ljubav i zloba (Love and malice) was performed in Croatian language. Besides opera in this theatre concerts were also performed (Franz Liszt was a guest in this theatre), and in 1892 a first ballet play. Theatre could hold between 750 and 800 spectators, and some of the original chairs as well as the original curtain by Vjekoslav Karas can now be seen in the Zagreb City Museum. In the theatre was also one hall that was used for concerts and different social events. One of such events was a dance and a concert performed when Ivan Mažuranić was named ban of the Kingdom of Dalmatia, Croatia and Slavonia in 1873. In 1894 theatre was electrified and in 1897 it was remodelled to serve the purposes of the City Assembly, and until today it still has the same function. If you are interested in a virtual tour you can visit following web site: http://www.skupstina.zagreb.hr/skupstina-virtualna-setnja/index.htm, and opera you can hear on following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KO6ARFwR6Zc

Photo ofKazalište Amadéo - The Amadéo Theatre, Demetrova 1

Kazalište Amadéo - The Amadéo Theatre, Demetrova 1

Back in 1796 on the Upper Town a palace of the count Pejačević was build and following year a hall on the first floor was remodelled for the purposes of theatre plays. In 1799 in that hall a first opera was performed in Zagreb. All the plays were performed by either German or Italian traveling theatre companies, accompanied by domestic theatre orchestra. This hall was used also as a concert hall especially for the concert exams, and concerts that had pedagogical function. In 1807 the palace was sold to the count Antun Amadé Varkony, and accordingly the palace was renamed Amadéo Theatre. Until 1834 when a new theatre was built on Trg Svetog Marka, this was the only public theatre in Zagreb. Today in this building is Croatian Natural History Museum (http://www.hpm.hr/). Unfortunately the building was severly damadged in the 2020 earthquake. More about Amadéo Theatre on the following web site: https://www.scenaamadeo.hr/hr/o-sceni/tehnika/prostor (only on Croatian language)

Lisinski

A small street in the Upper Town named after famous Croatian composer Vatroslav Lisinski the author of the a first Croatian opera Ljubav i zloba - Love and malice. You can hear the Opera the following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KO6ARFwR6Zc (1846)

Photo ofPalača Dverce ( Palača Buratti) – Palace Dverce (Palace Buratti),T rg Katarine Zrinske 6

Palača Dverce ( Palača Buratti) – Palace Dverce (Palace Buratti),T rg Katarine Zrinske 6

This palace dates back to the middle of 18th century when a baroque palace build on the city walls was rebuilt. Today’s look is from the end of 19th century when a countess Klotilda Burati redecorated a palace and by doing so gave Zagreb the most beautiful ballroom. When she died in 1912, it was discovered that she left this palace in her will to the city of Zagreb to be used for official events. More on following links: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFTLIXhtp8Q; http://www1.zagreb.hr/galerijakd.nsf/c31dd4a135787898c1256f9600325af4/893938659965c25dc1257f3e0049139a?OpenDocument

Gornjogradska gimnazija - Upper Town High school, Trg Katarine Zrinske 5

The oldest high school in Zagreb was founded by Jesuits in 1607, and they started to work in an abandoned building on Grič. The school was free, and one third of pupils were coming from noble families, and two thirds from the middle class and peasants. In the 1645 fire, school’s building was severely damaged, and it moved to a new building next to the church of saint Catherine. In the same building very soon a Theology faculty started with their lectures as well as the course in Philosophy (in this school the foundation of University education was set). After Jesuits order was abolished in 1773 school was overtaken by the state. During summer in the school’s courtyard is Ljetno kino Gradc (Summer cinema Gradec) that you should definitely visit (https://www.ljetnokinogradec.com/).

Photo ofCrkva sv. Katarine Aleksandrijske – Church of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, Katarinski trg bb

Crkva sv. Katarine Aleksandrijske – Church of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, Katarinski trg bb

The church was built on the place where once a small Dominican church from 14th century used to be. When the Jesuits came to Zagreb, a new church (1620 -1632), and a monastery were built. Today this is the most famous baroque church in Croatia even though from the outside it doesn’t look very special. So, please do go inside because if you don’t you might miss a baroque gem. The inside of the church is painted in pink, you will see a beautiful baroque pulpit, stucco decorations on ceiling and walls and there is more. But that you will have to see for yourself ;) Unfortunately, in the earthquake of March 22nd, 2020 the building was severely damaged.

Photo ofGalerija 'Klovićevi dvori' na Jezuitskom trgu - Gallery 'Klovićevi dvori' on Jezuitski trg

Galerija 'Klovićevi dvori' na Jezuitskom trgu - Gallery 'Klovićevi dvori' on Jezuitski trg

This small square connects nearby streets and squares. On this square was once an old Jesuit monastery. Former monastery was in the end of 20th century renovated and it became an exhibition area now known as Klovićevi dvori. Buildings surrounding this square date back to 17th, 18th, and 19th century. Central part of this square is a fountain with the statute Borba/Struggle (Ribar sa zmijom/Fisherman with the snake), and it was placed here in 1908. This is the work of our famous sculptor Simeon Roksandić and it depicts a very dramatic struggle between man and nature. More on: http://gkd.hr/en/about-klovicevi-dvori-gallery/

Jezuitski trg – Jesuit square

This small square connects nearby streets and squares. On this square was once an old Jesuit monastery. Former monastery was in the end of 20th century renovated and it became an exhibition area now known as Klovićevi dvori. Buildings surrounding this square date back to 17th, 18th, and 19th century. Central part of the square is a fountain with the statute Borba/Struggle (Ribar sa zmijom/Fisherman with the snake), and it was placed here in 1908. This is the work of our famous sculptor Simeon Roksandić and it depicts a very dramatic struggle between man and nature.

Photo ofKula Lotrščak - Lotrščak Tower, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9

Kula Lotrščak - Lotrščak Tower, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9

The tower was built in 1266 and it was part of the city’s defence wall. Throughout the history the function as well as form of the tower changed. In 17th century it was used as storage area, and in 19th century there was a café in the ground floor. On the top of the Tower is a smaller tower that was built as an addition and used for alarming citizens in case of a fire. Citizens of Zagreb used to call it hen-house because the look of the tower reminded them on hen-house. Today on the fourth floor is a Grič canon that fires out a lot of papers every day precisely at noon. Lotrščak was named after the bell that was inside the tower. The bell rang every night to announce that the city gates will be closed. Nowadays, we don’t have any more curfew but as mentioned earlier a cannon that fires out a lot of papers every day precisely at midday. You can find more about the Lotrščak tower on the following links: https://croatia.hr/en-GB/lotrscak-tower; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epot6-Zgv3I

Uspinjača - Funicular

After planting chestnuts on the Strossmayerovo šetalište (Strossmayer promenade) in 1865 a wooden pavilion was placed between Croatian Meteorological and Hydrological Service and Funicular stop on the Upper town. On Sundays military band held concerts, and their repertoire consisted of opera, and operetta pieces as well as famous parlour music. This pavilion was removed in 1921. After you have enjoyed the walk through Strossmayer’s promenade it is recommended to take a break in Ilica Street, more precisely in Kraš pastry shop and try one of the best coffees & cakes in Zagreb. The fastest way to go there is by funicular, the oldest way of mechanical transport that still exists in Zagreb, and more importantly that is still in use. History of funicular begun in the early 19th century when, on the place where funicular is now, was just a steep hill road that passed through vineyards and orchards on its way to Downtown suburbia that was surrounded by residential houses and beautiful gardens of Upper town. In later years, city built so called Bregovita ulica (Hill road) with new stairway and street lights and lanterns. In 1889 the city’s fathers decided to invest money in building the steam engine funicular, and one year later it was put into operation. This first steam engine had very frequent malfunctions and in 1934 it was substituted with the new electric drive motor and the final reconstruction was in 1974. Few technical facts – height difference from top to bottom is 30.5 meters, yearly it is used by more than 615 000 passengers and ride in only one direction lasts precisely 64 seconds. Nowadays it became one of most important touristic attractions in Zagreb. More about funicular and an old photo you can find on following links: https://www.zet.hr/uspinjaca/detaljnije/403; http://daz.hr/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/126-1.bmp

Tomićeva ulica

This street is only several meters long and thus it is one of the shortest streets of Zagreb. It used to be called Bregovita (Hill street) since it lies on the slopes of Gradec just like Mesnička and Duga ulica (today Radićeva street). Citizens of Gradec used to take that road on the way from Lotrščak to their fields that used to be at the foothill of Gradec and back again on their way home. The street still has cobblestones as it used to have in the earlier centuries. With the traffic increase it was decided to build a Funicular which was put into function in 1893. In 1934 steam engine was replaced with the electrical one. Funicular is protected as a monument of culture and it’s a big touristic attraction. This is the shortest Funicilar in the World, only 66 meters, but for ages it has made life simpler for the inhabitants of Upper Town that Funicular can reach in 55 seconds. Tomićeva street is the best window of Zagreb’s craft tradition. In this street you can find a souvenir shop, family owned brewery, vine shop, clockmaker with a 60 year old tradition, pastry shop and even an art park from which you can enter the Zagreb tunnel that stretches under the Upper town from the street Mesnička to Radićeva. For those of you that can’t or don’t want to wait for the Funicular, there are two staircases that will take you to Strossmayer promenade but you will need some 15 minutes to reach the Upper Town.

Ilica

is Zagreb’s lifeblood, the street where you do shoe, clothes, cosmetics and jewelry shopping. You can find here all the world-renowned shops. There was a saying once “If you want to see your family and friends without appointments that on Saturday morning walk through Ilica from Britanski trg to Trg bana Jelačića and you are bound to meet some of them”. Today that same rule applies also to Bogovićeva street and Trg Petra Preradovića (Cvijetni trg), and mobile phones have brought closer those connections. True, due to the corona we must keep distance from one another, there are no more hugs and kisses when meeting each other, but that too will pass. Ilica is one of the oldest streets in Zagreb. The best evidence is an early bronze pantry in Dežmanov prolaz. In Roman times in Ilica was Magna via regis that ran from here to Petrinjska street where it turned to right and passed through today’s Trnje till river Sava and from there to Sisak (at the time Siscia). From that period in Petrinjska Street number 3 we have found marble head of a man, in Preradovićeva street number 4 a coin from 4th century and on the Trg bana Jelačića 12 a coin from the period of the emperor Diocletian. On all above mentioned locations you can see replicas of those artifacts with attached descriptions. The name Ilica was mentioned for the first time in 1431. The street name was derived either from the name of the brook and hill (today Rokov perivoj) or from the layers of clay (in Croatian ilovača) that was used by local population to make pottery. Ilica was part of Nova varoška ves, and under the direct ruling of Gradec that ruled from Harmica to Ilički trg (today Britanski trg). This was the core of future Downtown that in 19th century grew on East towards Maksimir, on the South towards river Sava, and on the West towards Črnomerec. The oldest street in Zagreb is Vlaška ulica. It was mentioned for the first time in 1198 as a settlement “Vicus Latinorum”. It was named after French builders that built the Cathedral, and Italian tradesmen and craftsmen. In 14th century for the first time a German settlement was mentioned so called shoemakers settlements – Šoštarska Ves (“Vicus sutorum Theutonicorum”), and the potters’ settlement – Lončarska Ves (“Vicus lutifigulorum). In the end of 19th and beginning of 20th century Ilica began to change. Small village houses were wrecked and, on their place, a new representative house built. These new houses had three floors, and on the ground-floor and mezzanine were usually shops. They were built by renowned Croatian architects such as Kuno Waidmann, Josip pl. Vancaš and Hönigsberg & Deutsch. Shops had big glass window displays. Ilica is still today very picturesque, narrow and winding. The houses in Ilica are of different height and style and they are witnesses to the multiethnicity of former Ilica’s residents who were Jews, Serbs, Czechs and Germans. The coffeehouses were the ones that gave Ilica that special feeling. In the beginning of 20th century there were 6 coffeehouses in Ilica from Narodna kavana on Trg bana Jelačića to Bauerova on the corner of Ilica and Frankopanska ulica. Especially rich decoration, in Art Nouveau style could be seen in coffeehouse Corso, on the corner of Gundulićeva street and Ilica. In coffeehouses you could find newspapers and magazines from all over the world, and you could meet some of the great writers, actors or photographs such as Matoš, Szabo, Marinković, Krleža, Tošo Dabac. Today, unfortunately coffeehouse of Ilica disappeared in their original form. In Ilica you can now see bars, bakeries, fast-food shops, and then some more shops, shops, shops…

Photo ofTrg bana Josipa Jelačića - Ban Josip Jelačić Square

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića - Ban Josip Jelačić Square

changed several throughout the history. One of the first names was sajamski trg (market square), then in 18th century it changed name into Harmica. This name comes from the Hungarian word harmincz (thirty) because at the time traders had to pay a tax i.e. thirtieth part of the value of the goods they were selling, and they were paying it in a house that was on the square. The reminder of those days can be seen even today in the northern part of the square where you can see a passage with the name Harmica. In 1848 the square changed name into the square of ban Josip Jelačić , than in 1946 into the square of the Republic and in 1990 the name was changed back to Josip Jelačić. This square is the most important place in the life of Zagrebians, this is where we meet each other, where we say goodbyes and where we celebrate different events. If you are not in the mood for a walk around the city just sit in one of the cafes or at the base of the monument of ban Jelačić and watch passers-by. On the square you can find Tourist info centre, a bank, supermarket (Prehrana and Mueller), chocolate shop (Kraš), cafes, book shops, bakeries and what ever your heart desires. More on following links: http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/life/; http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/jelacic/

Photo ofTunel Grič (Ulaz) – The Grič Tunnel (Entrance)

Tunel Grič (Ulaz) – The Grič Tunnel (Entrance)

The tunnel was built in the city centre during the Second World War as an air raid shelter. This tunnel was opened for public in 2016 and since than it is used for different cultural events and different thematic exhibitions. More on the following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vL0YcPrsJTA

Photo ofIzlaz iz tunela (Izlaz) – The Grič Tunnel (Exit)

Izlaz iz tunela (Izlaz) – The Grič Tunnel (Exit)

The tunnel was built in the city center during the Second world war as an air raid shelter. This tunnel was opened for public in 2016 and since than it is used for different cultural events and different thematic exhibitions. You can find out more on following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vL0YcPrsJTA

Photo ofCvjetni trg or Flower market square

Cvjetni trg or Flower market square

is part of Zagreb where in the evenings, and specially Saturday mornings everyone who wants to be seen (actors, sportsman, singers) and their audience (those who watch them and photograph them) gather. This very strange gathering we call in Zagreb špica. All of these people mingle in an area that’s only 200m away from the main square and it has a form of square the borders of which are Bogovićeva street, Gajeva street, part of Ilica, Petrićeva and Margaretska street and Cvjetni trg. You can reach Cvjetni from 6 different sides: Varšavska street from the West, Preradovićeva street from the South, Bogovićeva street from the East, Ilica through passage Oktogon on the Nort-East and Preobraženska and Margaretska from the North. Restaurants’ and bars’ terraces can be seen in all of these streets, as they stretch one after another, but the ones that are most comfortable are the ones on Cvjetni square. You can sit under the sunshades or in the deep shade of the trees and hidden observe celebrities passing by. As of 14th century on this square the real name of which is Square of Petar Preradović (1818-1872) fairs were held regularly. Square was named after the national revival general, and poet Petar Preradović, whose statue can be seen on the square. However, everyone in Zagreb calls this square Cvjetni or Flower market square. Until 1995 when the square was renovated there were a lot of wooden flower stalls on the southern part of the square, the trees were tall and branched. All of us that remember it from those time, miss the old square. But it still has very unique charm and atmosphere even though the buildings around it are not of the same height nor were they built in the same period, and newly planted tress don’t seem to be growing. During winter hidden from the wind, and in summer from the sun it has become a living room of Zagrebians. This is a place to meet your friends, family, have business meetings, but in the same time it’s a place to promote numerous actions and organizations, and when necessary to protest against injustice. On the northern part of the square is an orthodox church Svetog Preobraženja. Church was built in the end of 19th century based on the designs of architect Franjo Klein. It is standing on the place were once was a roman-catholic church of Sveta Margareta used to be but then it was sold to the Greek religious community. At the time in Habsburg Monarchy orthodox religious community of Zagreb was just like all other orthodox communities within the Monarchy called Greek (non-united) church. But, in time number of Greeks in the orthodox society decreased since there was a great increase in the number of Serbs who moved to Zagreb so in 1848 the church got a prefix “serbian”. In order to keep the memory on the first church, the street that goes from this church to Ilica is named Margaretska. You can learn more about the history of the square on the following links: https://hr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trg_Petra_Preradovi%C4%87a_(Zagreb) i https://akademija-art.hr/2018/04/05/povijest-cvjetnog-trga/