Wikiloc | HEIM - Following the footsteps of famous Zagrebians (EN) Trail

Photo ofNeboder - Zagreb Skyscraper, A view from the 16th floor

Neboder - Zagreb Skyscraper, A view from the 16th floor

Recently I have spent a very pleasant Sunday afternoon with a friend on the top of one of the most famous Zagreb’s landmarks, and that’s Zagreb Skyscraper. Drinking cappuccino and enjoying the view from the 16th floor made me realize once again that I live in a beautiful city. Living and growing up with the city brought back some memories from mine as well as Zagreb’s past. A look on Radićeva Street reminded me on numerous Sunday family lunches. All the hallways in the city centre as well as ours smelled the same of homemade soups, fried or roasted meat and strudels or pies. You can see more on: https://www.zagreb360.hr/en/

Ivan Meštrović on the square

On the Trg bana Jelačića number 4 is a palace build in 1907 called Palace Popović after the owner Fedor Poppović who was a trader. If you look up you’ll see a beautiful relief made by Ivan Meštrović. The relief is 5 meters tall and it represents farmers and trade. Farmers as a reminder of a house with a shop that was on that same place before (and they were selling grains), and trade since the owner was trader. This was the first public monument made by Meštrović in Zagreb. More on following links: http://athena.muo.hr/?object=detail&id=61265; https://mestrovic.hr/en/biography/

Kuća Rado - Rado House

On Trg bana Jelačića number 5 is a house build in 1905 for Eugen Rado. Rado was a dentist and in this building was his flat as well as his office with the view on the main square. You will recognize the building by the statues of the Asclepius and Hygiea.

Harmica

This name comes from the Hungarian word harmincz (thirty) because at the time traders had to pay a tax i.e. thirtieth part of the value of the goods they were selling, and they were paying it in a house that was on the square. The reminder of those days can be seen even today in the northern part of the square where you can see a passage with the name Harmica.

Photo ofTržnica Dolac, Mliječni odjel - Dolac Market, Dairy section

Tržnica Dolac, Mliječni odjel - Dolac Market, Dairy section

When you go through the passage Harmica you’ll see on the other side of the street Pod zidom between a patisseries and underwear shop a sign that says “Tržnica Dolac”. As you enter, you’ll immediately be surrounded by the smell of cheese and this will be the best prove that you are in the milk products heaven. Everything around you is white, white walls, white marble benches, white saleswomen clothes… In the central part on the benches local farmers sell their products, and next to the wall are products of local craftsmen. They all sell cheese, milk, milk products, homemade corn bread, cakes, pasta, herbs, tea, eggs, mushrooms… Zagreb’s speciality is soft cow's milk cheese mixed with cream. It was and it still is my favourite dinner, and when you add some salt, chives and ground red pepper this meal turns into a very delicious spread. Cheese and cream are main ingredients of two Zagreb's famous dishes štrukli and burek. Štukli are made of thin layers of pastry filled with cheese and cream. They can be cooked or baked in the oven with cream. Burek has similar ingredients, but it’s baked longer, it's greasier and it has thicker layers of pastry. Burek comes from East, more precisely Turkey. You can try both of these meals close to Dolac, štrukli in Skalinska street in the restaurant “La Štruk”, and burek in the bakery of the Dolac’s mezzanine.

Marija Jurić Zagorka

(1873-1957) is a Croatian writer and first woman journalist in Croatia. She came to Zagreb in 1883 in order to attend school but she gave up the education, and in 1892 she was forced to get married. Three years later she left her husband and moved back to Zagreb, and thanks to the bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer she started to work as a journalist in a magazine Obzor. She worked in Obzor from 1896 till 1917 and she wrote about Hungarian politics (she was a foreign correspondent from Budapest), she wrote biographies, short stories, travel diaries etc. When chief editor of Obzor and his deputy were for a short period of time imprisoned she acted as a chief editor of the magazine. After leaving Obzor in 1917 she started and edited several magazines (Zabavnik, Ženski list, Hrvatica). As of 1910 she dedicated majority of her time to writing historical novels in sequels. She was also a writer of a first Croatian detective novel “Kneginja iz Petrinjske ulice”. She died in her apartment at Dolac 8, in November 1957. She is buried on Mirogoj, and her apartment became a memorial collection and it’s opened for visits (but you have to announce your visit in advance). And if you want to see how Zagorka looked you should go to Tkalčićeva street where you can see her statue made by sculptor Stjepan Gračan. It was placed there in 1991. You can read more on: http://zagorka.net/biografija/; http://info.hazu.hr/en/about_academy/foundation_of_academy/strossmayer_en/; http://dangerouswomenproject.org/2016/11/02/marija-juric-zagorka/; https://www.infozagreb.hr/explore-zagreb/attractions/public-monuments/marija-juric-zagorka-54a11ce4f04df&lang=en; https://web.archive.org/web/20060105195023/; http://germslav.byu.edu/perspectives/2005/Woods_K.pdf; http://zagorka.net/stan-marije-juric-zagorke/

Katedrala – Cathedral

In 1094 king of Croatia and Hungary Ladislav I. established a diocese of Zagreb, and soon after the construction of the cathedral begun. The Cathedral was built in 1217 but in 1242 it was severely damaged during the invasion of Tatars. After that a new cathedral was built and that one got in 16th century a defence wall (due to the Turkish invasions). But that cathedral was also damaged in the 1880 earthquake. The plans for the renovation were made by Herman Bollé and the renovation lasted till 1902. Concerning the old inventory, you can find only several pews, pulpit, a fresco on the southern wall, and two altars. In the cathedral you can also see beautiful stain glass windows and a big inscription in Glagolitic letters on the western wall. Unfortunately, in 2020 earthquake the cathedral was damaged and is currently under reconstruction. You can see more on http://www.zg-nadbiskupija.hr/home and http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/restoration/

A bus to the cemetery Mirogoj

https://www.zet.hr/bus-lines/daytime-lines-593/593

The Ruđer Bošković Institute

https://www.irb.hr/eng

Mirogoj

Central city cemetery was built in 1876 on a land that was once owned by Ljudevit Gaj. It’s hard to imagine now, that Gaj once had here a vineyard, English style garden with fishponds, and summer house. Gaj lived here till 1872, and after his death city of Zagreb bought the land and decided to move here all local cemeteries that were at the time scattered around Zagreb and create one, public cemetery. The idea was to have one place where all Zagrebians regardless of their religious beliefs could be buried. Mirogoj is very special because of the arcades, that were, just like the church Krista Kralja build based on the plans of Herman Bollé. In the arcades many famous Zagrebians, politicians, writers, and artists are buried. It might sound unusual to recommend a visit to a cemetery but walking through Mirogoj you’ll also see numerous works of art since almost all of Croatian greatest artists made tombstones on Mirogoj. In the second half of 20th century on the edge of Mirogoj crematorium and urn garden were built. You can see more on: https://www.gradskagroblja.hr/en; https://www.gradskagroblja.hr/urn-garden-crematorium/704; https://www.lovezagreb.hr/topics/heartbeat-of-zagreb/one-of-the-greatest-herman-bolle; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEIAQy_bhFo,

Ilirci - Ilirian movement

Croatian national revival movement was a political movement that lasted from 1835 till 1848 i.e. in the period when all over Europe nations were formed. The main idea behind this movement was to unite all Croats in one nation under the name Iliri. They published their magazine, opened reading rooms. Leader of the movement was Ljudevit Gaj, and members of the movement were intellectuals, and nobility, and thanks to them we got our first theatre plays in Croatian language, and Croatian became official language in parliament. Here in the arcades of Mirogoj majority of the members of the movement are buried. You can see more on: http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/national_revival/

Stjepan Radić

(1871 – 1928) Croatian politician and founder of Croatian People's Peasant Party (HPSS). He opted for finding a solution for agricultural, social and national question for Croats within the Monarchy. He was also advocating universal right to vote. He died in August 1928 of the wounds from the attempted assassination in June 1928 in the National parliament in Belgrade. You can see more on: https://magazin.hrt.hr/530916/8-kolovoza-1928-umro-stjepan-radic-2

August Šenoa

(1838 – 1881), The most famous writer of Zagreb. He was town notary, editor of the magazine, and writer of numerous novels and stories about Zagreb and its history. His most famous book is “Zlatarevo zlato” that describes Zagreb in 16th century. After the 1880 earthquake he visited all the houses that were damaged in order to make estimation of the costs. While doing so he caught pneumonia and died. Šenoa house at Malinova street 27 is not a museum but a home where a family still lives. You will not see descriptions next to the exhibited artifacts because Jasmina Reis, heiress and keeper of the Šenoa family heritage, together with two students from the Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences wants to explain everything about the house on her own. There is no permanent exhibition because display changes based on events they organize such as literary nights, concerts, anniversaries etc. This house was built in 1928 by Milan, the oldest son of August Šenoa. He choose this location because he and his father loved coming to this hill and visit August Šenoa’s friend Josip Eugen Tomić. Mr Tomić had on this hill small wine cellar as he was a foreman of the city’s vineyards that lay between Gupčeva zvijezda and Jurjevska street. The great August Šenoa, unfortunately, lived all of his life in a rented lodging. He was born at Vlaška street 45, moved several times, and died at Mesnička street at the age of only 43. Mother of Jasmina Reis was a wife of writer’s grandson Zdenko, and she heard a lot of family stories from him that now she retells to the visitors. She studies everything that remained from once numerous Šenoa family. House itself is not very big, around 200 m², it has two floors, but it’s full of love and harmony of the family that managed, despite all the social changes and wars, to keep the legacy of the great writer. You can see here their furniture, art works, books, letters, and personal objects that portray the life of the family in the best way. The main reason for the good state of the legacy is August’s wife Slava, who outlived August Šenoa for 60 years. Today in the house different events are organized but always connected with Šenoa and his family. Guided visits of Zagreb are also organized and during these walks aside of learning where the birth house of August Šenoa is, participants of the tours also visit other places connected to the August Šenoa’s books. But tour also includes visiting places that are connected to the life and work of his sons Branko Šenoa who was a painter and Milan Šenoa who was a writer, and his grandson Zdenko Šenoa who was lexicographer. Unfortunately, this house was severely damaged in 2020 earthquake and is waiting for the reconstruction. You can find out more on following links: http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/senoa/; https://kuca.senoa.eu

Franjo Tuđman

(1922 – 1999), He was a politician and historian. Tuđman was a founder of Croatian Democratic Union (HDZ, 1989) with the goal to make Croatia independent. The party won on the first multiparty election (1990) and in 1992 Tuđman won on the presidential election. You can find out more on the following link: https://www.predsjednik.hr/en/bivsi-predsjednici/franjo-tudman/

Franjo Krežma

Franjo Krežma (Krezma, Kresma; Franz, Francesco, François) is a violinist and composer. Krežma was born in Osijek on September 4th, 1862. He was a special, almost mythical person in the world of music. He died tragically at the age of 19 of the ear infection complications, but he is still famous around the world as a violin virtuoso, often compared with Paganini. In his compositions Krežma used to incorporate Croatia’s folk motives. Very few of his compositions survived till present day: one symphony, 3 overtures, several marches, and dances for orchestra, string quartet, and several compositions for violin. Unfortunately, great part of his compositions and priceless violines were destroyed in a big fire of his parents’ home. He moved to Zagreb from Osijek with his family in 1866, at the age of 4. He began learning violin at the age of 6, and his teacher was Mr Eisenhuth, and at the age of 8 he started to perform in public. In 1875 when he was only 13, he finished a Viennese conservatory (violin, counterpoint and composition and harmony), and he was such a successful student that he was awarded a medal and a solo concert accompanied by orchestra. His career was very brilliant, in his short life he had more than 200 concerts all around the Europe. He performed in Croatia, Italy, Austria, France, Czech Republic, Hungary etc. His patron was Josip Juraj Strossmayer, his promotors were Ivan Zajc and Franz Liszt. In 1879 he became a concertmaster in a Berlin orchestra (that later became Berlin philharmonic) and he remained the head of the orchestra till the end of his short life. He is buried at Mirogoj, and his legacy is divided between Hrvatski glazbeni zavod (Croatian Music Institute) and Muzej grada Zagreba (Museum of the city of Zagreb). His name now is carried by one primary school in Osijek, Friends of Music association, chamber music orchestra, and a meeting of young string quartet musicians. In 2004 Stjepan Tomaš, Croatian writer researched archives, read critics that August Šenoa and A.G. Matoš wrote, and after collecting all of the data wrote a novel “Guslač od marcipana” (in English Marzipan Fiddler) and dedicated it to “Croatian Paganini”. You can learn more about Krežma on the following link: https://krezma.eu/gb/franjo-krezma/

Bus for Kaptol

https://www.zet.hr/bus-lines/daytime-lines-593/593

Kaptol

On Kaptol go out of the bus and walk through Dolac market and take the stairs to Opatovina. More about Kaptol you can find on: http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/kaptol/.

Opatovina

This is one of the city’s micro locations that has a special feeling and you can feel it through the quietness and in the same time richness of different events. A charm and the beauty can be seen in flower market, small market stalls selling handcrafted items, souvenir shops, bars and restaurants. In the end of the street is a Franciscan church and monastery, a nice park to relax and enjoy the beauty of Upper Town. You can find our more on the following link: http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/kaptol/

Biskup Duh - The bishop Duh

was a Czech and came to Zagreb upon the king Ladislav’s invitation. Bishop Duh was a first bishop of Zagreb’s diocese and from this period, we have the oldest church items in Zagreb kept today in the cathedral’s treasury. You can find out more on following links: http://www.zg-nadbiskupija.hr/default.aspx?id=6912 http://www.mgz.hr/en/display/building_cathedral/; http://www.zg-nadbiskupija.hr/archdiocese-16380/archdiocese/establishing-the-diocese

Photo ofStube biskupa Duha – Bishop Duh's stairs

Stube biskupa Duha – Bishop Duh's stairs

These stairs connect Tkalčićeva street and Opatovina. They were named after the bishop Duh who was a Czech and came to Zagreb upon the king Ladislav’s invitation. Bishop Duh was a first bishop of Zagreb’s diocese and from this period we have the oldest church items in Zagreb kept today in the cathedral’s treasury. More on: https://hrcak.srce.hr/index.php?show=clanak&id_clanak_jezik=349262

Kamenita vrata - Stone gate

The Stone gate is one of the symbols of Zagreb. It was built in 13th century and as of 1760 till today it has remained unchanged. Within the gate is a chapel that holds a painting of Our Lady of the Stone gate (Majka Božja od Kamenitih vrata) patron saint of the city of Zagreb. This painting survived a great fire in 1731 (May 31st). Many people stop here to say their prayers in silence and express their gratitude. On the walls you can see many thank-you plaques put there by the worshipers. More on Kamenita vrata, and old photos on following links: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxMpSHcUPIo; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rNwO-A-IZI; https://digitalna.nsk.hr/pb/?object=info&id=15070; https://digitalna.nsk.hr/pb/?object=view&id=10424&tify={%22view%22:%22scan%22}

Photo ofLjekarna 'K Crnom orlu' – Upper Town Pharmacy “K Crnom Orlu”, Kamenita ul. 9

Ljekarna 'K Crnom orlu' – Upper Town Pharmacy “K Crnom Orlu”, Kamenita ul. 9

Zagreb’s oldest pharmacy was opened in 1355 and the first pharmacist was an Italian Jacobus apothecaries. The official name of the pharmacy was Apotheca civitatensis ad aquillam nigram (City's pharmacy “Black Eagle”). Within the pharmacy you can find today a small museum that presents Zagreb’s as well as Croatia’s pharmaceutical history. More about the first pharmacist: http://www.mgz.hr/en/exhibitions/i-jacobus-apothecarius---from-the-apothecary-to-industry,471.html

Photo ofCrkva svetog Marka - The Church of St. Mark

Crkva svetog Marka - The Church of St. Mark

was built by Venetian merchants and was first mentioned in 1334. It's one of the oldest buildings in Gradec (Grič) and today is a symbol of Zagreb mainly because of its colourful roof which has two significant coats of arms. One represents the triune kingdom of Croatia-Dalmatia-Slavonia and another one is that of the city of Zagreb. However, the church got its roof and its present-day shape in the neo-Gothic style in the 19th century after a devastating earthquake and a thorough restoration. The renovation was done by Herman Bollé based on designs of architect Fridrich Schmidt. There were even plans to demolish the church completely and create the space for the famous fair of St. Mark. Throughout the centuries, the church suffered many times from earthquakes and fires, but it has always been rebuilt and expanded. In the church of St. Mark on the altar of St. Cross Croatian Bans (vice-kings) and city judges were sworn in. Gradec was a city of free citizens and craftsmen who were united in guilds and had their flags and altars in the church. The legend says that Matija Gubec, the leader of the Peasant Uprising in 1537 was executed on the square in front of the church. The execution was bloody, and Gubec was crowned with glowing crown and quartered.

Photo ofTrg svetog Marka, Radio Zagreb - Square of Saint Mark's, Radio Zagreb

Trg svetog Marka, Radio Zagreb - Square of Saint Mark's, Radio Zagreb

The square of Saint Mark’s developed in 13th century around the church of saint Mark’s. Until 19th century numerous fairs were held on the square, and the most famous one was Fair of Saint Mark’s. This fair lasted for two weeks and it took place around the day of saint Mark’s (25th of April). Besides the church on this square you can see a building of Croatian Parliament, Croatian Government, former Stanković theatre (today town hall). On the number 9 is a house where ban (viceroy) Ignjat Gyulay used to live, and today it’s owned by the Museum of the City of Zagreb. In the courtyard of that house is a smaller building where a studio of Radio Zagreb was and from where on May 15th, 1926 a first radio show was broadcasted. More about the square and radio on following links: https://www.infozagreb.hr/explore-zagreb/attractions/squares/st-marks-square&lang=en; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_9eo4C29zI; http://www.skupstina.zagreb.hr/skupstina-virtualna-setnja/index.htm

Vatroslav Lisinski

The street was named after Vatroslav Lisinski the author of a first Croatian opera Ljubav i zloba - Love and malice. If you would like to hear the opera, you can find it on the following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KO6ARFwR6Zc (1846)

Photo ofKazalište Amadéo - The Amadéo Theatre, Demetrova 1

Kazalište Amadéo - The Amadéo Theatre, Demetrova 1

Back in 1796 on the Upper Town a palace of the count Pejačević was build and following year a hall on the first floor was remodeled for the purposes of performing theater plays. In 1799 in that hall a first opera was performed in Zagreb. All the plays were performed by either German or Italian traveling theater companies, accompanied by domestic theater orchestra. This hall was used also as a concert hall especially for the concert exams, and concerts that had pedagogical function. In 1807 the palace was sold to the count Antun Amadé Varkony, and accordingly the palace was renamed Amadéo Theatre. Until 1834 when a new theater was built on the trg Svetog Marka, this was the only public theater in Zagreb. Today this building is a home of a Croatian Natural History Museum, but in the 2020 earthquake the building was severely damaged. You can learn more about museum on the following web site: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Croatian_Natural_History_Museum

Photo ofAtelijer Meštrović - Atelier Meštrović, Mletačka 8

Atelijer Meštrović - Atelier Meštrović, Mletačka 8

What is special in this museum is the permanent exhibition of the works of Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović who gave an exceptional contribution not only to Croatian but also world art. In artistic sense this is a very representative atelier. Meštrović bought and renovated this house into a family house with atelier. Since renovation was done by renowned Croatian architects and artists it has an additional artistic value. And one curiosity for the end, his first neighbor was his ex-wife. You can find more on following links: https://mestrovic.hr/en/museum/atelijer-mestrovic/ ; https://mestrovic.hr/en/biography/

Photo ofPalača Jelačić - Palace Jelačić, The Collection of Mechanical Music Automat of Ivan Gerersdorfer, Demetrova 7

Palača Jelačić - Palace Jelačić, The Collection of Mechanical Music Automat of Ivan Gerersdorfer, Demetrova 7

In one of the most beautiful palaces of the Upper Town (Palace Jelačić) is situated a valuable collection of 27 music automats from 19th century and the beginning of 20th century. Part of this collection is exhibited and can be seen and heard but in the building of the Zagreb City Museum, where you can see numerous musical boxes and phonographs.

Miroslav Krleža

(1893 – 1981), Krleža started writing in 1914, and after the First World War he permanently moved to Zagreb where he was born. He was the editor of several literary magazines, and after the Second World War he was the Head of Jugoslav Institute of Lexicography until 1950. Until present day he remained famous for his dramas and he is deemed as one of the most significant Croatian writers of 20th century. More on memorial space on the following link: http://www.mgz.hr/en/collections/donation-to-the-city-of-zagreb-the-miroslav-and-bela-krleza-memorial-space,2.html

HEIM - Following the footsteps of famous Zagrebians (EN)

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