Albània - Grècia - Turquia - Iran (Tezerj - Keshit)

14-10-2022 - Around 4 I wake up to go swimming, there is good moonlight even though it has been in the waning phase for a couple of days. I leave the tent in balls, there is a gentle breeze and I approach the motorcycle to check the temperature, 22°C, I sit for a while in the cool air listening to the sound of the water and the sound of crickets. In the distance you can hear the howling of some dogs, I notice the coolness and I go back into the tent. Look how cute it is, it's a shame that people leave all their rubbish there.
5 in the morning, it starts to lighten. I approach the waterfall, no one is there, I strip and wash. Breakfast and gas!
At the first place on the side of the road that I see that sells water, I stop to buy some and also some dates and get an espresso machine, great!
Right next to it, a couple of cops handcuff and put in the car a guy who was making a mess by burning a container.
Arriving in Rayen I notice that the touch on the clutch does not end and after a while the cable breaks, luckily I'm on a main street, I stop a motorcyclist and show him, he says to leave the motorcycle there in front of the barber who he says to watch her and get on his bike and we go to a workshop a little further up where the mechanic says to take the bike to him. We are going to get my motorcycle, thinking about how we can stretch it the guy says "push push" while he goes next to me with his motorcycle but my motorcycle and all the load is very heavy and you have to go about 500 meters, lucky that it is very flat.
The mechanic looks at it, rummages around the workshop and comes out with a cable that he puts in to replace the broken one, cuts the cables and ready, no more than 5 minutes.
It says "test", I get in, start it, clutch and start, let go little by little and it seems to be fine. But what he really wants is to try it himself, he takes out his goat's leg and climbs up but it's hard for him to climb the bag and luckily I'm next to him and I hold his fall, he comes out squeaking without looking at anything, turns a little higher and back, phew what a pain.
I want to pay him but the assistant says no and to leave, I don't insist, I show him 1,000,000 but he says "dollar dollar", I give him a $2 bill and he keeps saying he wants more, I tell him I don't have any plus (the smallest bill is 20$ and I don't want to give him that much), everyone there says "go go", I put on my jacket and helmet and start and go.
I go to Keshit, which seems to have a cool palm grove to sleep in, and the road to get there is interesting, but it's about 100 km from Rayen. I put gas and buy 2 bottles of water, one is frozen, great.
The first 30 km are road but the rest is half asphalt and half track and the scenery is fantastic, it looks like Mars.
I arrive at the village, there are some motorcycle ruts that cross the stream and go up, so let's go, it was difficult to get up. I don't go around there, there are houses and fields with palm trees. I meet a gentleman with a motorcycle who wants to load a huge bundle of grass on the motorcycle, someone says, I understand that he wants me to help him, it is difficult to hold that mess on the motorcycle but a guy arrives and also helps us and I go to the other end of the town following the river where I find the palm grove I'm looking for and settle down.
A motorbike passes by with a man, a woman, a child and the grandmother. After a while the grandmother comes walking and goes towards the village, I hear the motorcycle coming with the other 3. They stop and start the usual conversation but we don't understand each other and they keep talking, and they start playing the shefarder and playing - yes, I get serious, I take what they touch and tidy it up and go saying no to everything.
In the end the woman takes the plastic bag she had prepared on the motorbike to put the rubbish in and takes it away and the man without saying anything takes the water bottle that was next to me and looks down his nose, start the motorbike, take the child and all 3 of them leave ... I hope they don't come back.