Spend a few days with the fishermen of Puerto Gaviota
near Puerto Cisnes, Aisén (Chile)
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Puerto Gaviota
The same sea that isolates the tiny community of Puerto Gaviota from the rest of the world also gives reason for its existence. Situated inside Isla Magdalena National Park, the town was officially founded in 1999, after slowly evolving from makeshift camps known locally as “nylon ranches” that began during the decade of the 1980’s when a few brave fishermen came in search of the coveted Austral Merluza. Today, these rustic camps have evolved into a tiny village with basic services including a church, school, boardwalks, boat slips and homes. Visiting Puerto Gaviota is an adventure that is not for everyone. The isolation of the island results in conditions that can be challenging, but if you are the type of traveler who views these challenges as part of the fun of the adventure, you will be rewarded with a unique experience. To visit, you’ll need to coordinate boat passages, either with a private boat operator in Puerto Cisnes, which is more expensive but provides you with added flexibility, or via the Cordillera Route operated by the ferries of Naviera Austral. If you plan to travel via ferry, have some flexibility with your plans; the ferries only stop a few times per week and the weather of the fjords sometimes results in delays. There is a residential on the Island, named Residencial Isla Magdalena, managed by Señora Galicia Saldivia, and two cabanas, owned by Señora Blanca Morras Rathgeber. There is no medical service of any kind, so you should be prepared with your medications and first aid supplies. Electricity is obtained by a generator, but you should be prepared with flashlights and headlamps, just in case. o To get to Puerto Gaviota, you can travel via ferry (www.navieraustral.cl), or contract one of the boat transport services that operate from Puerto Cisnes: Oscar Barría, (09) 82139452; Juan Carlos Torres, (09) 82400063; Arturo Ruiz, (09) 95030057; or Claudio Matamala, (09) 87428544, claudiomatsalazar@gmail.com. o For your lodging and other logistics, contact the island in advance using the satellite phone (562) 19629586, located in the store, "San Pedro", owned by Don Jorge Hernandez, or Don Miguel Acosta’s Amparo Base repeater, (067) 2361350. You may need to call several times before successfully connecting, but, keep trying! Either of these contacts can coordinate your accommodation and other needs.
Puerto Amparo
Circling the peninsula in a small boat or kayak is also a lot of fun. The area is well protected from strong winds and waves and you’ll see lots of sea life, including mussels, sea urchins, starfish and other mollusks. Although it’s tempting to collect and eat a few clams or mussels, remember that red tide has contaminated some of the shellfish in this area and since there’s no testing facility or healthcare on the island, you would be taking an ENORMOUS risk.
María Isabel Islets
If you want to go to learn about the cave of San Andrés, believed to have been a refuge for nomadic chono canoe people who once inhabited this area, talk with local captains and organize an excursion. Another great excursion visits the María Isabel Islets, home to a variety of sea birds like pelicans, cormorants and seagulls. Bring your bird guides, binoculars and cameras because you'll see thousands and thousands! Behind the first islet there’s a great place for viewing sea lions – you’ll encounter several families resting and playing on the rocks. Don’t be surprised if they swim over to check you out – they are quite curious and will want to know who the stranger is invading their peaceful world!
Route Puerto Amparo
You’ll also want to trek to Puerto Amparo during your time on the island. It’s only a 30 – 40 minute hike, but you may spend at least that long, finding the trail. The dense vegetation of the Valdivian forest tends to grow over quickly so pay attention along the way. The trail begins behind the community center and ends at the beach, winding its way through an area with the greatest diversity of flora of the entire Region. If you have the chance, take along a local who can show you the way and explain the names of plants and birds you encounter. At the beach, there are great picnic spots and a soccer field where the community gets together for local competitions.
Puerto Cisnes
It is the perfect combination to create a unique and spectacular landscape, located on the shores of the spectacular Puyuhuapi fjord. You’ll find this pearl via a brief detour from the Carretera Austral or if you prefer, you can arrive by sea aboard the ferries of Naviera Austral. Puerto Cisnes is home for around 2,500 inhabitants and nestled between two National Parks: Queulat and Magdalena Island, making it a great base from which to organize your visits to both parks. Get to know this great town and some of its stories in this fun walking tour.
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