Mt tibrogargan - Caves route

The Caves Route up Tibro is not a particularly difficult climb for the most part and in fact is only slightly steeper than the tourist route up the western side. However, the main difference is the level of exposure on the Caves Route as there are only a few ledges and a couple of sections where it would be very unwise to slip on. For this reason it is also highly advisable to bring a 50-60m abseil rope and rappel down rather than down-climbing (Fixed anchor rings are provided). The moderate grading was chosen as this route should be regarded as more of a climbing route than a walking track.

The route begins from the tourist track carpark then heads south-east round the southern side of Tibro on the Tibrogargan circuit. The track up to the Caves Route and a collection of multi-pitch climbs is located on the south Eastern side of Tibro. It is not signed till about 100m in (only a warning sign) so be careful not to miss the turn off. Head up this track till you reach the base of the mountain, then walk down along the cliffline for 20m or so till you see a well worn path heading straight up which signifies the start of the Caves Route. From this point on you will want to wear approach shoes or at least something with a flexible sole (climbing shoes would work too).

Take care to remain on the path as you head up (follow the morne patches). Also take note of the anchor points for your descent. About a third of the way up the track goes straight through a the first cave. If you take a detour to the north from the top of this cave you will find the second cave as well. The track continues up from the first cave to probably the most exposed section of the climb before spitting you out in a semi-flat brush section referred to as 'The Scrub'.

As you approach the next steep section look for the chimney located about 4m off the ground which is the preferable path to take to reach the summit, (he third cave is located just to the right of the Chimney and contains some climbing routes as well as some awesome views). This is the trickiest section of the Caves Route and is about a grade 12 rock climb (definitely actual rockclimbing). Send the least confident or able people of your group up first and spot them from below to arrest arrest a possible fall. The last person to go up should be confident/able enough to not be worried about falling if you chose to take this route. There is an alternative route up the slabs to the left of the chimney. However, there are limited holds going up this way and it very exposed making it a rather sketchy experience that is best avoided by following the chimney up if possible.

The track the heads up the north eastern shoulder of Tibro before a myriad of paths become apparent just where the final patch of vegetation begins just below the summit. All the scrambling in this section can be avoided by contouring around far enough to the South-West.

On descent head back to the north eastern shoulder and head back to the point near the end at the top of the Chimney and this is where you will find the first set of rap rings. If you have a 60m rope (preferable) you will be able to reach the start of the scrub. If your rope is only 50m you will need to use the chockstone at the beginning of the chimney to rap down the final few metres. The next two raps can be done with a 50m rope and the section of downclimbing near the base can be avoided by using a polished tree as an anchor point. If you wish to limit your walking distance from the base head back the way you came, or if you'd prefer to circumnavigate Tibro just continue around the northern side to return to the carpark.