2015-05-17 三つ峠
near Tōnoki, Yamanashi (Japan)
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Itinerary description
Bivouac and climbing practice at Mitsutoge.
We started walking past 11:30 PM and got to the campsite in less than an hour. At the bottom the parking lot was full with cars, a few tents and headlights could be spotted ... we expected a crowd on the rocks the following day and from 6:30 AM climbers' shouts could be heard around almost uninterruptedly all day through.
Bivouac: emergency shelter and sleeping bag cover only, with a bit of wind it was particularly cold since I didn't bring a dawn jacket on account of the double digit temps forecast for the night. I was a bit overly optimistic and my thermometer read 8 degrees around 6 AM, much after sunrise. I didn't really sleep and decided to go to the summit (5 minutes from the bivouac spot) for sunrise. Through the clouds there were promising colors around 4:25 and clouds were descending, I had still hopes but massive gray clouds soon engulfed the mountain and nothing could be seen any more for hours.
Climbing: after an easy going run with 3 or 4 pitches (the last one not requiring the rope) the sky cleared although it remained partly overcast. We almost missed the rappel point and a Kamoshika appeared, oblivious of my presence, only to flee as a climber was about to rappel down directly on the animal.
After a delicate first pitch on a route too hard for us, and much trouble removing the protections while rappelling down we gave up that route and tried a more reasonable one. Between the first 2 clips, N-san lost balance and fell 2 meters on his feet but immediately collapsed backwards and fell another 2 meters landing on his back on a protruding rock. Astonished by the unfolding incident I stared and snapped back to reality a split second later. The belayer really cannot do anything in case of a fall at such a low hight. Fortunately no harm was done and N-san resume climbing a few moments later. As usual we changed lead at every pitch and finished the run without much trouble except entangled ropes during rappel.
At last we fixed the rope and tried a delicate run top rope, it turned out it was a 11.a, too hard for my level with an overhang to scale at the very beginning. No one managed it and we went for a simpler one just next to it.
more pictures here: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8dPS_LBwxeLfnotSWtDM3prZ1Y5ektSZk16aXZvVVJCNTVSbWxKUmFHUEF5MWk2R0pOWFU&usp=sharing
We started walking past 11:30 PM and got to the campsite in less than an hour. At the bottom the parking lot was full with cars, a few tents and headlights could be spotted ... we expected a crowd on the rocks the following day and from 6:30 AM climbers' shouts could be heard around almost uninterruptedly all day through.
Bivouac: emergency shelter and sleeping bag cover only, with a bit of wind it was particularly cold since I didn't bring a dawn jacket on account of the double digit temps forecast for the night. I was a bit overly optimistic and my thermometer read 8 degrees around 6 AM, much after sunrise. I didn't really sleep and decided to go to the summit (5 minutes from the bivouac spot) for sunrise. Through the clouds there were promising colors around 4:25 and clouds were descending, I had still hopes but massive gray clouds soon engulfed the mountain and nothing could be seen any more for hours.
Climbing: after an easy going run with 3 or 4 pitches (the last one not requiring the rope) the sky cleared although it remained partly overcast. We almost missed the rappel point and a Kamoshika appeared, oblivious of my presence, only to flee as a climber was about to rappel down directly on the animal.
After a delicate first pitch on a route too hard for us, and much trouble removing the protections while rappelling down we gave up that route and tried a more reasonable one. Between the first 2 clips, N-san lost balance and fell 2 meters on his feet but immediately collapsed backwards and fell another 2 meters landing on his back on a protruding rock. Astonished by the unfolding incident I stared and snapped back to reality a split second later. The belayer really cannot do anything in case of a fall at such a low hight. Fortunately no harm was done and N-san resume climbing a few moments later. As usual we changed lead at every pitch and finished the run without much trouble except entangled ropes during rappel.
At last we fixed the rope and tried a delicate run top rope, it turned out it was a 11.a, too hard for my level with an overhang to scale at the very beginning. No one managed it and we went for a simpler one just next to it.
more pictures here: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8dPS_LBwxeLfnotSWtDM3prZ1Y5ektSZk16aXZvVVJCNTVSbWxKUmFHUEF5MWk2R0pOWFU&usp=sharing
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