VOLCÁN CAYAMBE
near Sarayo, Pichincha (Ecuador)
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Trail photos
Ascent to the Nevado Cayambe from the Ruales-Oleas-Bergé refuge.
The route starts from the refuge heading NE with a steep slope through sand and rocks until you reach the lagoon at the foot of the glacier. The ascent by the glacier is simple but it is necessary to pay special attention to the hidden cracks. You pass a rocky area known as Picos Jarrín and you continue ascending and winding cracks until you reach the great crack under the somital fungus, this crack has widened in recent years due to climate change, therefore, we were forced to overcome it by the left making a last stretch of ice climbing of about 40m approximately and an inclination of 80º, where we had to exercise extreme caution.
The Cayambe is the only snow on the planet with 0 ° latitude, that is, it is in the line of the Equator, this fact makes it possible to see both the Southern Cross and the Pole Star at night, it is a wonderful spectacle.
It should be said that it is a pure and hard alpinism excursion, where you have to be well acclimatized to the altitude and start walking at 12 o'clock at night in order to have the best possible snow conditions.
It is a beautiful ascent with all the components of a great adventure.
The route starts from the refuge heading NE with a steep slope through sand and rocks until you reach the lagoon at the foot of the glacier. The ascent by the glacier is simple but it is necessary to pay special attention to the hidden cracks. You pass a rocky area known as Picos Jarrín and you continue ascending and winding cracks until you reach the great crack under the somital fungus, this crack has widened in recent years due to climate change, therefore, we were forced to overcome it by the left making a last stretch of ice climbing of about 40m approximately and an inclination of 80º, where we had to exercise extreme caution.
The Cayambe is the only snow on the planet with 0 ° latitude, that is, it is in the line of the Equator, this fact makes it possible to see both the Southern Cross and the Pole Star at night, it is a wonderful spectacle.
It should be said that it is a pure and hard alpinism excursion, where you have to be well acclimatized to the altitude and start walking at 12 o'clock at night in order to have the best possible snow conditions.
It is a beautiful ascent with all the components of a great adventure.
Waypoints
Comments (4)
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Hola nollete! Muy buena información. Quería hacerte alguna consulta, he visto que sobre las fotos tienes marcada la via de ascension, ¿tienes la reseña más detallada o me puedes decir donde conseguirla?
Iré en diciembre a Ecuador, así que si tienes más información sobre otras montañas que quieras compartir también me gustaría tenerla.
Muchas gracias por adelantado.
Un saludo
Hola alextasis! Muy buena elección la tuya de ir a Ecuador. No tengo más información interesante acerca de otro nevado puesto que no la hay o yo no pude encontrarla y yo no llevé el GPS. Para ascender Cotopaxi o Chimborazo es obligatorio llevar un guía local. Hay muchas agencias donde puedes conseguir uno y tanto el precio como como las condiciones del guiaje dependen mucho de la agencia, te recomiendo pillar un guía profesional con certificación de la ASEGUIM (Asociación Ecuatoriana de Guías de Montaña). Si vas por libre como yo, puedes hacer ascensiones más pequeñas para aclimatar como el Guagua y Rucu Pichincha (en Quito), o como el Imbabura o el Corazón (la info está en mi perfil). También es bonita y sencilla la ascensión al Rumiñahui, en la zona del Cotopaxi. Si lo necesitas, puedo pasarte algunos teléfonos de guías profesionales de allí para que puedas preguntarles lo que necesites.
Hola Nollete, para realizar la cumbre del Cayambe exigen guía local ?
Excelente