Tanzania. Uhuru Peak. Kilimanjaro por ruta Lemosho (seis días)
Trail photos
Author
Trail stats
- Distance
- 39.19 mi
- Elevation gain
- 14,954 ft
- Technical difficulty
- Difficult
- Elevation loss
- 17,441 ft
- Max elevation
- 19,281 ft
- TrailRank
-
99
5
- Min elevation
- 5,363 ft
- Trail type
- One Way
- Time
- 2 days 3 hours 8 minutes
- Coordinates
- 4604
- Uploaded
- April 8, 2022
- Recorded
- April 2022
near Ol Molog, Arusha (Tanzania)
Viewed 2016 times, downloaded 71 times
Trail photos
Itinerary description
|
To Mari Luz. My companion from so many kilometers high
Pronouncing Kilimanjaro already predisposes to adventure.
The abundant literature and information about the different routes, the experience that colleagues who have already known it tell you, and what oneself intuits from previous experiences in other mountains, makes you outline an approximate (and quite real) idea of what What are you going to find?
We know that in the mountains (high mountains), there are three basic elements to take into account: preparation, adequate equipment and acclimatization. And there is a fourth that every mountaineer should never forget, and that is the key to all the challenges we set ourselves: previous experiences cannot be extrapolated.
Finally, knowing the importance of acclimatization, we moved a few days before starting the trip to Sierra Nevada to get a previous adaptation. We are not wrong.
The Kilimanjaro mountain is made up of three inactive volcanoes and from lowest to highest they are: Shira (3962 m), Mawenzi (in the Chagga language it is ancient rock) (5,149 m) and Kibo (5,895 m). The Kibo (in the Chagga language means impressive), is the youngest of the three in geological terms, and is located between the two
With these premises we prepare this company, consisting of taking our long-suffering bodies to Uhuru Peak (Pico Libertad, named after the independence of Tanzania), which is the highest point of the Kilimanjaro mountain, on the Kibo volcano. We knew the difficulty of reaching the objective. The difficulties that can appear despite having preparation, encouragement and equipment are not negligible.
We had the wickers, now we could start making the basket.
Confident, but aware of the difficulty, we set out to do a route that would give us the opportunity to get used to the altitude, since the acclimatization challenge is the most important one ahead of us. And that knowing that in previous experiences we had already walked above 5,000 without much difficulty.
For this we chose the Lemosho route to reach the top in six days, and another two days to descend. It seemed to us the most suitable, not only to successfully complete our initiative, but also to enjoy the environment and live with the natives of the country, learning some words of Swahili and Chagga, and knowing some of their uses and customs; which is an enriching experience without a doubt.
It is worth noting how important both the guide Rigan and the assistant Abdullah have been for us and we want to thank them not only for their help and advice, but also for having learned and learned first-hand about the idiosyncrasies and customs of their people. They will always be with us.
The route was developed as follows:
First day.
We leave at nine (local time) from Moshi bound for Lemosho Gate.
We already had our belongings ready, so after breakfast we finally left.
At 11:05 we are at Lemosho Gate to carry out the essential procedures for access to the Kilimanjaro National Park (everything is weighed and looked at to access the national park and every time you arrive at a camping area).
Without further ado we begin our journey. Emotion overwhelms us.
We are in the middle of the jungle and the first drops of rain begin to fall.
Our team of porters start the way. We followed them minutes later.
We start walking from 2,100 at Lemosho Gate.
7 km. separate us from Mti Mkubwa Camp (Big Tree) at 2650 m altitude.
The rain intensifies throughout the route, although it never became annoying. The road, through the forest, is very entertaining. The birds swarm around us but they don't let themselves be seen. Only their trills reveal their hidden presence. We also don't see the colobus monkeys, which we hear screaming.
A smooth and enriching walk of two hours leaves us at our destination at 14:17. What costs four hours to do according to the program we do in half. Now we have to rest until tomorrow and replenish the few forces that we have spent.
The feelings of the day have been positive. We are exultant and excited.
Second day
After a hearty breakfast, we start the second stage from Mti Mkubwa to Shira I. 7 km separate us. and the forecast is 4 hours of travel.
We first do this stretch through a jungle area. The sun is with us, but when we reach the first ridges of the Shira valley, the clouds begin to cover the sky and the humidity is felt. We enter what they call “moorland” (literally moor).
The Shira zone is a huge crater several kilometers in diameter, within which there are other smaller cones, in addition to Kibo.
In conversation with our guide, he tells us the origin of the name Shira for this area. Shira refers, in some way, to the fury of an armed conflict. This territory is inhabited by the Chagga ethnic group, with their own language, expert farmers and with completely different traditions from the Masai, mostly cattle farmers. In past times, when the Maasai suffered the effects of droughts, they directed their herds to the areas occupied by the Chagga, being a source of conflict, since they invaded agricultural land. These conflicts over the use of the territory gave rise to the name Shira.
Since we started walking at 8:15, it is now when we stop to rest and have lunch. It's 10:50.
Throughout the route we go from 2,650 m to 3,610 m at Shira Camp I.
We reached Shira camp I in just over two hours.
After an intense reflection, and a conversation with the guide, we decided to do the next day's stage up to Shira II the same day. The reason was that we were physically very well and did not feel any effects of altitude sickness. We could gain time and get much closer to the target. So, after a short rest and after regaining strength, we started the path to Shira II.
We started walking at 1:40 p.m.
On our way to the camp the sky begins to clear and we see the slopes of Kibo for the first time, although its summit is still covered by clouds.
We arrive at Shira II at 16:30.
In less than three hours we have completed the 10 km that separated us from Shira I to Shira II. Now we really begin to feel the almost 4,000 m. The wind in the face is appreciated, as an aid to breathing.
When the sun disappears, the cold becomes intense and we have to take refuge in the store.
We have dinner and at 7:30 p.m. we are in bed summarizing the day, commenting on the sensations and taking stock of what we have done and what remains. The mental review is intense, and although the dream is not continuous, we need it to achieve our goal.
We have hours to rest until the next day. The summary is positive and the perception of our state is very good. We agree that the days spent at the height of the Sierra Nevada have been very important for the adaptation that we are carrying out.
Third day
We get up at 6:30 tired of being in bed. I have slept little, but Marilú is more of a marmot and has been able to rest.
From the moment we get up we feel that we are at 4,000 m above sea level. Any effort is noticeable.
We begin to be aware that the real effort begins from now on.
We have 10 km to Barranco Camp, and it is planned to do it in 6 hours.
Until then the road is not difficult. We apply the maxim that they told us on the first day: pole pole (little by little). Without haste we began to walk.
It is a key day due to the fact of walking the 4,000 m
Something after 8 o'clock we headed to our first objective, which is none other than the Lava Tower at 4600 m. Until there the road is less dusty than in previous days, although dust is already part of our most intimate nature.
The path runs through different volcanic flows (in the form of huge steps) until it reaches the Lava Tower. The vision of the volcanic python is spectacular and as we get closer we realize its magnitude.
In just over three hours we have completed the distance from Shira II and, after a brief snack, we continue the path to Barranco Camp.
The path is now smooth and descending, except for a few small jumps that we climb down without difficulty. The cloudy sky and the wind from the east make the thermal sensation very cold. The streams that come down from the Kibo snowmelt are frozen and a thin layer of dry ice falls on us. During the tour we pass through a huge forest of dendrosenecios, a very resistant native plant of these high moors and with an imposing bearing in some specimens. At another time we crossed a small stream coming from a waterfall.
We arrive at the camp at 2:25 p.m.; in just over two hours.
There is little hunger, and although it is hard to eat, we have to regain strength.
It is very cold and we go to bed very early. Back to our thoughts and reflections in the privacy of the store.
We are very well and with the spirits through the clouds.
The best thing that this icy wind has brought us is that it has cleared the slopes of Kibo and for the first time we see it in all its majesty. Also to the southwest, the Meru leaves us some beautiful images.
Fourth day
The night has been very cold.
At seven we are up. The wind has dropped quite a bit and, like last night, the Kibo stands out perfectly in a resplendent blue sky.
It catches the eye as the sun appears, and disappears in the afternoon, in a split second. It is something that since we are at such a height we observe with curiosity.
After cleaning and the pertinent breakfast we begin our day.
After 8:15 we begin the ascent of Barranco Wall.
The climb is the most important that we will find throughout the entire route to the top. We were warned. It is not hard, nor dangerous even. The only difficulty is that it is very vertical, and about three hundred metres, although it must be said that it has more horizontal sections and there is always good grip and good footing. The fact that it is so long is the other problem you may have.
We do it straight away, practically without a break, except for some waiting that our fellow travelers who go a little slower force us to do.
In a few minutes we reach the edge of the ravine where we exceed 4200 m
The south wind is strong again and you have to keep your body and hands warm. The sky begins to cover and the cold increases again. An intense haze makes the Meru a wish more than a vision. Moshi and Mweka, which could be seen this morning from this height, are now missing under a sea of clouds.
From now on, and until you reach Karanga Camp, the path is a succession of ups and downs through a field of lava flows, with a slight descent, between 4100/4000 m
The path is again alternately dusty, and between ashes and stony, which does not make it easy to walk, especially in the steepest sections. Although it becomes unpleasant to walk, it is not difficult.
The small troughs and streams that run transversally, and that separate the steps from the lava flows along the way, come from the melting of the ice on the summit. The torrents do not entail any additional difficulty when fording them
Without further problems we reached our destination at 12:20 in the morning, and although the day has not been very physically intense, it is time to rest and take refuge from the wind. Today if there is appetite and thirst.
At 6:00 p.m. we are already retired in our store, returning to comment on the day's work, and the previous ones.
Today we have the feeling of having completed a true mountain stage. Until now the route had been more of a purely hiking type (through jungle, savannah and high mountains), although the height complicated the march due to the difficulty of breathing, making it somewhat more demanding. Even so, we are lucky that it has not rained on us, except for the first day in the jungle (only one hour, with a light rain).
We have good vibrations again and the certainty that we can achieve it becomes more and more real to us.
Fifth day
Today we got up very early despite the fact that the day is very short thinking about arriving soon and resting as much as possible to attack the summit with chances of success. At 6:30 we are up.
With the restlessness of the scenario that is presented to us, we have slept little.
We had breakfast.
Only 4 km separate us from Barafu Hut, where, in anticipation of the last effort, we will rest at almost 5000 m.
We set off at 8:30 starting immediately with a climb up a steep path. A path without any difficulty that in about 45 minutes leaves us on a small hillock. Ten minutes later, another steeper ascent takes us to another higher step, bringing us closer to the arrival wall of the Barafu Hut pass.
The wind is light, which is appreciated. We are in what they call alpine desert. The vegetation is completely gone.
After walking a dusty road, without complications, we reach the final escarpment that will leave us in the camp. Without any difficulty we overcome the various detours that we have to do between the rocks to reach Barafu Hut (ice camp) at 10:57, although it has not lived up to its name for years. Climate change is obvious.
The wind is gusty and very cold, but when the sun dies down it is scorching.
The only thing we appreciate are the everlasting white-necked crows, which we have seen since the first day throughout our tour. This is where there is more.
The camp is inside a lateral crater of the Kibo, or a subsidence of a part of its southern slope.
Looking around us, we see the path that we will follow at dawn, and that leads to Stella Point along a ridge.
The sky is covered and we have to take refuge despite the warm clothes.
We hope that with the arrival of afternoon the sky will clear up, the wind will stop and the high altitude clouds will disappear so that we can see the Kibo slope and the other great mountain: Mawenzi.
After a copious dinner, and despite not feeling tired, we are forced to rest and accumulate strength. We are very close to the last effort, and although the restlessness does not allow us to sleep, it is mandatory due to the wind and the cold.
Finally the sky is clearing as we expected, and the full moon appears over the Mawenzi.
At 11:00 p.m. we got up to start the ascent.
After equipping ourselves we had a light snack.
The inside of the tent is covered in frost from perspiration. The night is very cold.
Sixth day
At 0:05 we started to climb.
It is an added luck to have a full moon. The light from our headlamps would be enough, but we would not see the contours so perfect that they are defined by the reflection of the moon. The Mawenzi seems to us a witness of our march. The moon is the eye of Polyphemus that watches over us.
The path is made of loose gravel and stones, with different alignments of rocks that must be climbed, when we cannot avoid them. The cold is intensified by the small gusts of wind that sometimes appear. At intervals, ice also falls on us.
The last 500 m, until you reach Stella Point, are even more vertical and, although the path is not much worse, breathing becomes harder with the effort that combined with the wind is devastating. It gets long and it seems like you never get there. Pole pole, is our mantra. Pole pole,..., pole pole.
At 4:50 we arrived at Stella Point. The first light of day appears on the curved horizon (the Earth is definitely NOT flat). With the cold the camera is blocked in the first photo. There is no time to lose and we continue walking west in search of our destination.
It will still take us 40 minutes to cover the little more than a kilometer that remains to Uhuru.
As if it were a great fire behind the Mawenzi, the dawn light is delimiting its silhouette and quickly illuminating the path.
The cold is so unbearable that not even the hot water in the thermos has resisted freezing.
The image of the mountaineers heading towards the summit reminds me of the comical walk of penguins: in a single file, with short, syncopated steps. It's hard to breathe.
To our right we can see the huge Kibo caldera and the central crater with some ice patches.
To our left, the remains of the glacier, greatly diminished by the rise in temperatures, but the high walls that are still standing are still impressive.
In front, and in the distance, the moon is the lighthouse that shows us the direction. It continues to be the guide that shows us the way to Uhuru.
The path is now flat, and after a few brief stops to capture the moment, we arrive at our destination.
We melt into a hug.
Joy overflows us.
We have achieved it.
We remind the family that they will be looking forward to knowing the outcome. To the friends who have accompanied us on our journey. To those we love and who left our side.
The morning light illuminates everything. Only the shadow of Kibo looms long over the sea of clouds to the west.
The stay seemed brief to us, but after almost an hour at the top we started our way back.
The descent is now fast.
After returning to Stella Point on our steps, the descent is now through a scree of slag and ash. In a dizzying way, in less than two hours we are back in the camp.
After a brief rest and regain strength, we made the decision to return to Moshi that same day. That is to say; do two stages again on the same day. We find ourselves with strength and although we will cover a total of just over 27 km this day, the desire for rest and personal hygiene is more powerful than staying one more day on the road.
At 8:55 we set off again.
The descent is no longer an effort and as we go down we see the clear summit from where we came. Our prize is also rewarded by a splendid day and a sun that we were not used to. What weather had deprived us of before, now more than makes up for it.
We are leaving the alpine desert behind so that, at 12:05 we have reached High Camp (3950 m), we are in what is called “moorland”: A wasteland with shrubby vegetation and sometimes trees. This is where we rest and have a hearty lunch to continue our journey.
The march is difficult now because it runs between the different volcanic lava flows, which form an innumerable number of jumps, in the form of huge steps, which are very difficult to descend, and which in the flatter sections are full of dusty earth. Sometimes the path is delimited by stones and logs in a regulated section. It is a real leg breaker that is hard to cross after so many days of crossing, and at this point in the day, after the effort we just made a few hours ago.
The vegetation changes as we approach Mweka Camp (3100 m). Again we make a brief stop to rest.
Little by little we are entering the humid forest of the Kilimanjaro National Park. We are under the sea of clouds that we saw a few hours ago and that covers the entire forest. The humidity is felt, to the point that it starts to rain. The vegetation becomes lush.
Until reaching Mweka Gate, the road is long but very comfortable. It's like walking through a gigantic botanical garden. A humid forest of very varied species, with some tree ferns that transport us to primitive worlds. It is a well-deserved walk contemplating the infinity of native plant species. Even if the rain becomes annoying, we don't care.
We are happy with what we have achieved.
Mari Luz is the perfect companion for any adventure.
He always has an adjusted opinion.
You know how important silences are often.
He always has a word of support when "the slope" gets steep.
For her there is no discouragement.
His strength is extraordinary.
His vital experience is an example for me and for everyone.
Thanks to her, the route and the experience have been unbeatable.
Without her nothing would have been the same.
Thank you.
We hope that our experience will help you for those of you who intend to make this summit. It is not difficult nor does it require additional technical resources.
It's worth doing. It is an unforgettable experience.
We are not going to give you advice on what to wear, or how to prepare. Just to say that anyone with a good preparation, in good physical condition, with adequate equipment for high mountains and with no age limit, can do so if they want.
We encourage you and enjoy as much as we have.
If anyone needs any kind of help or information, do not hesitate to ask us. It will be a pleasure to be of help to those who may need it.
Pronouncing Kilimanjaro already predisposes to adventure.
The abundant literature and information about the different routes, the experience that colleagues who have already known it tell you, and what oneself intuits from previous experiences in other mountains, makes you outline an approximate (and quite real) idea of what What are you going to find?
We know that in the mountains (high mountains), there are three basic elements to take into account: preparation, adequate equipment and acclimatization. And there is a fourth that every mountaineer should never forget, and that is the key to all the challenges we set ourselves: previous experiences cannot be extrapolated.
Finally, knowing the importance of acclimatization, we moved a few days before starting the trip to Sierra Nevada to get a previous adaptation. We are not wrong.
The Kilimanjaro mountain is made up of three inactive volcanoes and from lowest to highest they are: Shira (3962 m), Mawenzi (in the Chagga language it is ancient rock) (5,149 m) and Kibo (5,895 m). The Kibo (in the Chagga language means impressive), is the youngest of the three in geological terms, and is located between the two
With these premises we prepare this company, consisting of taking our long-suffering bodies to Uhuru Peak (Pico Libertad, named after the independence of Tanzania), which is the highest point of the Kilimanjaro mountain, on the Kibo volcano. We knew the difficulty of reaching the objective. The difficulties that can appear despite having preparation, encouragement and equipment are not negligible.
We had the wickers, now we could start making the basket.
Confident, but aware of the difficulty, we set out to do a route that would give us the opportunity to get used to the altitude, since the acclimatization challenge is the most important one ahead of us. And that knowing that in previous experiences we had already walked above 5,000 without much difficulty.
For this we chose the Lemosho route to reach the top in six days, and another two days to descend. It seemed to us the most suitable, not only to successfully complete our initiative, but also to enjoy the environment and live with the natives of the country, learning some words of Swahili and Chagga, and knowing some of their uses and customs; which is an enriching experience without a doubt.
It is worth noting how important both the guide Rigan and the assistant Abdullah have been for us and we want to thank them not only for their help and advice, but also for having learned and learned first-hand about the idiosyncrasies and customs of their people. They will always be with us.
The route was developed as follows:
First day.
We leave at nine (local time) from Moshi bound for Lemosho Gate.
We already had our belongings ready, so after breakfast we finally left.
At 11:05 we are at Lemosho Gate to carry out the essential procedures for access to the Kilimanjaro National Park (everything is weighed and looked at to access the national park and every time you arrive at a camping area).
Without further ado we begin our journey. Emotion overwhelms us.
We are in the middle of the jungle and the first drops of rain begin to fall.
Our team of porters start the way. We followed them minutes later.
We start walking from 2,100 at Lemosho Gate.
7 km. separate us from Mti Mkubwa Camp (Big Tree) at 2650 m altitude.
The rain intensifies throughout the route, although it never became annoying. The road, through the forest, is very entertaining. The birds swarm around us but they don't let themselves be seen. Only their trills reveal their hidden presence. We also don't see the colobus monkeys, which we hear screaming.
A smooth and enriching walk of two hours leaves us at our destination at 14:17. What costs four hours to do according to the program we do in half. Now we have to rest until tomorrow and replenish the few forces that we have spent.
The feelings of the day have been positive. We are exultant and excited.
Second day
After a hearty breakfast, we start the second stage from Mti Mkubwa to Shira I. 7 km separate us. and the forecast is 4 hours of travel.
We first do this stretch through a jungle area. The sun is with us, but when we reach the first ridges of the Shira valley, the clouds begin to cover the sky and the humidity is felt. We enter what they call “moorland” (literally moor).
The Shira zone is a huge crater several kilometers in diameter, within which there are other smaller cones, in addition to Kibo.
In conversation with our guide, he tells us the origin of the name Shira for this area. Shira refers, in some way, to the fury of an armed conflict. This territory is inhabited by the Chagga ethnic group, with their own language, expert farmers and with completely different traditions from the Masai, mostly cattle farmers. In past times, when the Maasai suffered the effects of droughts, they directed their herds to the areas occupied by the Chagga, being a source of conflict, since they invaded agricultural land. These conflicts over the use of the territory gave rise to the name Shira.
Since we started walking at 8:15, it is now when we stop to rest and have lunch. It's 10:50.
Throughout the route we go from 2,650 m to 3,610 m at Shira Camp I.
We reached Shira camp I in just over two hours.
After an intense reflection, and a conversation with the guide, we decided to do the next day's stage up to Shira II the same day. The reason was that we were physically very well and did not feel any effects of altitude sickness. We could gain time and get much closer to the target. So, after a short rest and after regaining strength, we started the path to Shira II.
We started walking at 1:40 p.m.
On our way to the camp the sky begins to clear and we see the slopes of Kibo for the first time, although its summit is still covered by clouds.
We arrive at Shira II at 16:30.
In less than three hours we have completed the 10 km that separated us from Shira I to Shira II. Now we really begin to feel the almost 4,000 m. The wind in the face is appreciated, as an aid to breathing.
When the sun disappears, the cold becomes intense and we have to take refuge in the store.
We have dinner and at 7:30 p.m. we are in bed summarizing the day, commenting on the sensations and taking stock of what we have done and what remains. The mental review is intense, and although the dream is not continuous, we need it to achieve our goal.
We have hours to rest until the next day. The summary is positive and the perception of our state is very good. We agree that the days spent at the height of the Sierra Nevada have been very important for the adaptation that we are carrying out.
Third day
We get up at 6:30 tired of being in bed. I have slept little, but Marilú is more of a marmot and has been able to rest.
From the moment we get up we feel that we are at 4,000 m above sea level. Any effort is noticeable.
We begin to be aware that the real effort begins from now on.
We have 10 km to Barranco Camp, and it is planned to do it in 6 hours.
Until then the road is not difficult. We apply the maxim that they told us on the first day: pole pole (little by little). Without haste we began to walk.
It is a key day due to the fact of walking the 4,000 m
Something after 8 o'clock we headed to our first objective, which is none other than the Lava Tower at 4600 m. Until there the road is less dusty than in previous days, although dust is already part of our most intimate nature.
The path runs through different volcanic flows (in the form of huge steps) until it reaches the Lava Tower. The vision of the volcanic python is spectacular and as we get closer we realize its magnitude.
In just over three hours we have completed the distance from Shira II and, after a brief snack, we continue the path to Barranco Camp.
The path is now smooth and descending, except for a few small jumps that we climb down without difficulty. The cloudy sky and the wind from the east make the thermal sensation very cold. The streams that come down from the Kibo snowmelt are frozen and a thin layer of dry ice falls on us. During the tour we pass through a huge forest of dendrosenecios, a very resistant native plant of these high moors and with an imposing bearing in some specimens. At another time we crossed a small stream coming from a waterfall.
We arrive at the camp at 2:25 p.m.; in just over two hours.
There is little hunger, and although it is hard to eat, we have to regain strength.
It is very cold and we go to bed very early. Back to our thoughts and reflections in the privacy of the store.
We are very well and with the spirits through the clouds.
The best thing that this icy wind has brought us is that it has cleared the slopes of Kibo and for the first time we see it in all its majesty. Also to the southwest, the Meru leaves us some beautiful images.
Fourth day
The night has been very cold.
At seven we are up. The wind has dropped quite a bit and, like last night, the Kibo stands out perfectly in a resplendent blue sky.
It catches the eye as the sun appears, and disappears in the afternoon, in a split second. It is something that since we are at such a height we observe with curiosity.
After cleaning and the pertinent breakfast we begin our day.
After 8:15 we begin the ascent of Barranco Wall.
The climb is the most important that we will find throughout the entire route to the top. We were warned. It is not hard, nor dangerous even. The only difficulty is that it is very vertical, and about three hundred metres, although it must be said that it has more horizontal sections and there is always good grip and good footing. The fact that it is so long is the other problem you may have.
We do it straight away, practically without a break, except for some waiting that our fellow travelers who go a little slower force us to do.
In a few minutes we reach the edge of the ravine where we exceed 4200 m
The south wind is strong again and you have to keep your body and hands warm. The sky begins to cover and the cold increases again. An intense haze makes the Meru a wish more than a vision. Moshi and Mweka, which could be seen this morning from this height, are now missing under a sea of clouds.
From now on, and until you reach Karanga Camp, the path is a succession of ups and downs through a field of lava flows, with a slight descent, between 4100/4000 m
The path is again alternately dusty, and between ashes and stony, which does not make it easy to walk, especially in the steepest sections. Although it becomes unpleasant to walk, it is not difficult.
The small troughs and streams that run transversally, and that separate the steps from the lava flows along the way, come from the melting of the ice on the summit. The torrents do not entail any additional difficulty when fording them
Without further problems we reached our destination at 12:20 in the morning, and although the day has not been very physically intense, it is time to rest and take refuge from the wind. Today if there is appetite and thirst.
At 6:00 p.m. we are already retired in our store, returning to comment on the day's work, and the previous ones.
Today we have the feeling of having completed a true mountain stage. Until now the route had been more of a purely hiking type (through jungle, savannah and high mountains), although the height complicated the march due to the difficulty of breathing, making it somewhat more demanding. Even so, we are lucky that it has not rained on us, except for the first day in the jungle (only one hour, with a light rain).
We have good vibrations again and the certainty that we can achieve it becomes more and more real to us.
Fifth day
Today we got up very early despite the fact that the day is very short thinking about arriving soon and resting as much as possible to attack the summit with chances of success. At 6:30 we are up.
With the restlessness of the scenario that is presented to us, we have slept little.
We had breakfast.
Only 4 km separate us from Barafu Hut, where, in anticipation of the last effort, we will rest at almost 5000 m.
We set off at 8:30 starting immediately with a climb up a steep path. A path without any difficulty that in about 45 minutes leaves us on a small hillock. Ten minutes later, another steeper ascent takes us to another higher step, bringing us closer to the arrival wall of the Barafu Hut pass.
The wind is light, which is appreciated. We are in what they call alpine desert. The vegetation is completely gone.
After walking a dusty road, without complications, we reach the final escarpment that will leave us in the camp. Without any difficulty we overcome the various detours that we have to do between the rocks to reach Barafu Hut (ice camp) at 10:57, although it has not lived up to its name for years. Climate change is obvious.
The wind is gusty and very cold, but when the sun dies down it is scorching.
The only thing we appreciate are the everlasting white-necked crows, which we have seen since the first day throughout our tour. This is where there is more.
The camp is inside a lateral crater of the Kibo, or a subsidence of a part of its southern slope.
Looking around us, we see the path that we will follow at dawn, and that leads to Stella Point along a ridge.
The sky is covered and we have to take refuge despite the warm clothes.
We hope that with the arrival of afternoon the sky will clear up, the wind will stop and the high altitude clouds will disappear so that we can see the Kibo slope and the other great mountain: Mawenzi.
After a copious dinner, and despite not feeling tired, we are forced to rest and accumulate strength. We are very close to the last effort, and although the restlessness does not allow us to sleep, it is mandatory due to the wind and the cold.
Finally the sky is clearing as we expected, and the full moon appears over the Mawenzi.
At 11:00 p.m. we got up to start the ascent.
After equipping ourselves we had a light snack.
The inside of the tent is covered in frost from perspiration. The night is very cold.
Sixth day
At 0:05 we started to climb.
It is an added luck to have a full moon. The light from our headlamps would be enough, but we would not see the contours so perfect that they are defined by the reflection of the moon. The Mawenzi seems to us a witness of our march. The moon is the eye of Polyphemus that watches over us.
The path is made of loose gravel and stones, with different alignments of rocks that must be climbed, when we cannot avoid them. The cold is intensified by the small gusts of wind that sometimes appear. At intervals, ice also falls on us.
The last 500 m, until you reach Stella Point, are even more vertical and, although the path is not much worse, breathing becomes harder with the effort that combined with the wind is devastating. It gets long and it seems like you never get there. Pole pole, is our mantra. Pole pole,..., pole pole.
At 4:50 we arrived at Stella Point. The first light of day appears on the curved horizon (the Earth is definitely NOT flat). With the cold the camera is blocked in the first photo. There is no time to lose and we continue walking west in search of our destination.
It will still take us 40 minutes to cover the little more than a kilometer that remains to Uhuru.
As if it were a great fire behind the Mawenzi, the dawn light is delimiting its silhouette and quickly illuminating the path.
The cold is so unbearable that not even the hot water in the thermos has resisted freezing.
The image of the mountaineers heading towards the summit reminds me of the comical walk of penguins: in a single file, with short, syncopated steps. It's hard to breathe.
To our right we can see the huge Kibo caldera and the central crater with some ice patches.
To our left, the remains of the glacier, greatly diminished by the rise in temperatures, but the high walls that are still standing are still impressive.
In front, and in the distance, the moon is the lighthouse that shows us the direction. It continues to be the guide that shows us the way to Uhuru.
The path is now flat, and after a few brief stops to capture the moment, we arrive at our destination.
We melt into a hug.
Joy overflows us.
We have achieved it.
We remind the family that they will be looking forward to knowing the outcome. To the friends who have accompanied us on our journey. To those we love and who left our side.
The morning light illuminates everything. Only the shadow of Kibo looms long over the sea of clouds to the west.
The stay seemed brief to us, but after almost an hour at the top we started our way back.
The descent is now fast.
After returning to Stella Point on our steps, the descent is now through a scree of slag and ash. In a dizzying way, in less than two hours we are back in the camp.
After a brief rest and regain strength, we made the decision to return to Moshi that same day. That is to say; do two stages again on the same day. We find ourselves with strength and although we will cover a total of just over 27 km this day, the desire for rest and personal hygiene is more powerful than staying one more day on the road.
At 8:55 we set off again.
The descent is no longer an effort and as we go down we see the clear summit from where we came. Our prize is also rewarded by a splendid day and a sun that we were not used to. What weather had deprived us of before, now more than makes up for it.
We are leaving the alpine desert behind so that, at 12:05 we have reached High Camp (3950 m), we are in what is called “moorland”: A wasteland with shrubby vegetation and sometimes trees. This is where we rest and have a hearty lunch to continue our journey.
The march is difficult now because it runs between the different volcanic lava flows, which form an innumerable number of jumps, in the form of huge steps, which are very difficult to descend, and which in the flatter sections are full of dusty earth. Sometimes the path is delimited by stones and logs in a regulated section. It is a real leg breaker that is hard to cross after so many days of crossing, and at this point in the day, after the effort we just made a few hours ago.
The vegetation changes as we approach Mweka Camp (3100 m). Again we make a brief stop to rest.
Little by little we are entering the humid forest of the Kilimanjaro National Park. We are under the sea of clouds that we saw a few hours ago and that covers the entire forest. The humidity is felt, to the point that it starts to rain. The vegetation becomes lush.
Until reaching Mweka Gate, the road is long but very comfortable. It's like walking through a gigantic botanical garden. A humid forest of very varied species, with some tree ferns that transport us to primitive worlds. It is a well-deserved walk contemplating the infinity of native plant species. Even if the rain becomes annoying, we don't care.
We are happy with what we have achieved.
Mari Luz is the perfect companion for any adventure.
He always has an adjusted opinion.
You know how important silences are often.
He always has a word of support when "the slope" gets steep.
For her there is no discouragement.
His strength is extraordinary.
His vital experience is an example for me and for everyone.
Thanks to her, the route and the experience have been unbeatable.
Without her nothing would have been the same.
Thank you.
We hope that our experience will help you for those of you who intend to make this summit. It is not difficult nor does it require additional technical resources.
It's worth doing. It is an unforgettable experience.
We are not going to give you advice on what to wear, or how to prepare. Just to say that anyone with a good preparation, in good physical condition, with adequate equipment for high mountains and with no age limit, can do so if they want.
We encourage you and enjoy as much as we have.
If anyone needs any kind of help or information, do not hesitate to ask us. It will be a pleasure to be of help to those who may need it.
Waypoints
Overnight
Intersection
Waypoint
18,275 ft
Descenso por el canchal
Picnic
Door
Park
0 ft
Selva del Parque Nacional Monte Kilimanjaro
La ruta discurre por un impresionante bosque húmedo
Mountain pass
18,800 ft
Stella Point
Arrival at the rim of the crater. At this point other routes converge. From now on there is only a gentle slope to the peak.
|
Waypoint
14,931 ft
Camino y trepada a Barafu Hut (Campamento de hielo)
Section of the road that takes us to the camp at the base of Kibo, with a small bump or slight climb.
|
Summit
Comments (39)
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Paco, no tengo palabras para decirte lo impresionado que estoy tras leer tu descripción de la ruta. A pesar de que ya me lo habías contado, creo que hasta después de leerte, no me había hecho una idea de la dimensión de esta montaña y la aventura que conlleva ya desde la aproximación. Tiene que haber sido algo realmente emocionante; una de esas experiencias de la vida que nos dejan su huella para siempre.
Me alegra mucho que hayas cumplido tu sueño y desde la envidia más sana, siento mucho, muchísimo, no haber sido capaz de estar ahí contigo.
Eres el orgullo de todos.
Un gran abrazo.
Titooo a ver cuando me llevas a descubrir esos sitios 😉😉
Muchas gracias Joaquín. Habría sido un lujo poder tenerte a mi lado y poder abrazarme contigo en la cumbre.
Lo sabes.
Siempre digo que lo escribo como lo siento, aunque muchas veces intento contenerme. En ocasiones la emoción casi puede sobreponerse , pero intento ser lo más ecuánime en mis descripciones.
Gracias amigo.
Hola Pablo. Cuando tengas vacaciones nos preparamos una de estas que hacen afición.
Ya sabes que con vosotros al fin del mundo.
Muchos abrazos.
He de decir qué este gran montañero,y mejor persona,ha hecho un trabajo extraordinario y una descripción perfecta de esta ruta.
Ha sido un honor para mí compartirla con el.
Estará en nuestra retina, y en nuestro corazón para siempre.
Estoy contenta y orgullosa de haberla hecho,y con quién la he hecho.
Un beso y un abrazote a mi (waiki)
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Easy to follow
Scenery
Moderate
Hace falta estar un poco rodado.
Y tener claro que hay que aclimatarse,para no sufrir el mal de altura.
Por lo demas con un poco de sacrificio se puede.
Muchas gracias Marilú.
Tú si que eres grande.
Nos quedan aún muchos ratos de montaña para compartir.
Pacofélix,
es muy impresionante la ruta que te has marcado con mariluegi, felicidades a los dos.
Además te agradezco que compartas los detalles y fotos, que nos sirven para soñar si algún día....
Desde Murcia vivíamos con emoción, y con envidia también, vuestra aventura.
A ver si en la próxima que detalles puedo acompañarte.
Un abrazo a los dos protagonistas.
Mariluegi, perdona que con la emoción de la descripción de Paco, se me ha pasado el felicitarte a ti. Muchísimas felicidades por este logro tan importante y espero que podamos conocernos pronto.
Gracias Gabi.
Tenemos pendientes muchas y buenas rutas soñadas, que con el tiempo se harán realidad.
Abrazos.
I have followed this trail View more
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Easy to follow
Scenery
Difficult
Claro que sí Paco. Seguimos soñando y haciendo lo que podemos.
Enhorabuena a los dos por la ascensión a esta mítica montaña. Muchas gracias Paco por compartirla.
Muchas gracias Carlos por tu valoración.
Tenemos pendiente hacer juntos algunos sueños, y será un placer poder acompañarte.
Un abrazote.
Muchas gracias a todos amigos de Paco.
El hecho de ser amigos de él ,hace que os sienta mis amigos.
Cualquier dia nos conocemos y organizamos una de
Enhorabuena a los dos!!! Tremendos montañeros!! Paco, me he visto todo el camino con vosotros, sintiendo cada etapa de esta emocionante ascensión... Muchas gracias por dejarnos vivir desde aquí vuestra maravillosa aventura 😃👏😘😘😘
Muchas gracias Chispas.
Agradezco mucho tus palabras porque que vienen de una excelente montañera y mejor persona. Ojalá algún día conozcas a Marilú. Es una guerrillera como tú.
Tengo ganas de veros pronto a ti y a los "joaquines".
Muchos besos.
Áupa chispas!!!
Cualquier dia nos vemos por alguna cima.
Que la prepare el escritor,montañero y allá vamos.....
Muchas gracias .👍🤗
Bueno tengo que decir, que leyendo la magnifica descripción me he emocionado como "los monos colobo", precioso la exposición del rutón, mi enhorabuena para tu fenomenal compañera Mari Luz y para ti habéis formado una estupendo equipo, estas experiencia os acompañara toda la vida. Un abrazo campeones.
Chicos, nosotros también deseando veros a tod@s!! Espero que Mari Luz (Mariluegi) se apunte a la próxima quedada... Y que sea YA!!!! 😘😘😘❤️❤️❤️
Muchísimas gracias Jose.
Esta ruta también la habría disfrutado tu mujer por tantos animales que hay.
Abrazos.
Menuda rutaza...la envidia me corroe...a ver si me hago mayor pronto, casi tan joven como tu, y la hago yo también... un saludo y un fuerte abrazo Paco
El próximo sábado 23, vamos a quitar un árbol caído sobre del acueducto escondido.... no es lo mismo pero casi...Un saludo nuevamente
Muchísimas gracias Perico. Tenemos pendientes algunas correrías. A ver si podemos hacerlas pronto.
Ya quisiera tener tu edad. No tengas prisa.
Un abrazote amigo.
Hola Paco, pienso ir en Junio, me puedes decir como organizaste la expedición?
Con respecto a guía etc, directamente allí o en España?
Muy claro e instructivo tu aporte.
Saludos cordiales
Hola gust_e
Muchas gracias por tu comentario.
Te he enviado un privado.
Un saludo.
Hola, tengo pensado ir este año he estado leyendo vuestra aventura. Gracias por compartirla y enhorabuena por lo muy bien que escribes...da gusto leerlo.
Un saludo
Muchas gracias ANGELVICTOR.
Ahora mismo debe estar allí gust-e que tambien me escribió, y espero que la esté disfrutando tanto como nosotros.
Si necesitas alguna información adicional no dudes en pedirla.
Saludos.
Hola Paco
Lo primero muchas gracias por compartir esta preciosa ruta,tus palabras me han transportado a la misma cima....
Estamos pensando en hacer esta ruta para el mes de julio,me puedes decir cómo contrataste la ruta???
Estoy perdida totalmente,no sé como organizarlo,si me pudieses ayudar.....
Muchas gracias ,un abrazo
Ana
Preciosa descripción de la por tus palabras
Hola anaaycar36.
Gracias por tu valoración. Si me das un correo o teléfono te lo cuento de pe a pa.
Saludos.
anaanaycar36 si habilitas los mensajes privados te podré contestar.
Saludos.
Gracias Paco,te dejo mi email.
anaycar36@.😉
anaycar36@
Está incompleto. Habilitas los mensajes privados, es lo mejor.
Saludos.
Como lo habilitó?
Ve a configuración, y en ajustes de privacidad.
Saludos.
Buenas! Podrías decirme cuánto os ha costado y cómo habéis contratado el guía? Es obligatorio hacerlo con porteadores? Gracias.
Hola Rachi747.
Tienes dos opciones: contratar con una agencia de aquí, que te ofrecerá un paquete cerrado de un mayorista de Tanzania; o bien una vez allí contratar con una agencia tanzana.
No es obligatorio contratar guía, ni porteadores (al menos cuando estuvimos nosotros), pero ten en cuenta que: desplazamientos, tiendas para dormir, comida, agua para el aseo o beber, infraestructura para rescate (en caso de necesitarlo) es difícil que puedas llevarlo todo por tí mismo. También tienes que pagar por entrar a los parques nacionales y la burocracia no es fácil.
Para una primera vez yo te aconsejaría contratar aquí, y así tienes la certeza de que todo está asegurado.
En cuanto al precio fueron unos 2.000 euros (con vuelos ida/vuelta), los 10 días todo incluido: desplazamientos, permisos, guías, porteadores, comidas, asistencias. Tienes que sumarle las propinas que tienes que dar a los guías/porteadores (unos 60 euros por persona).
Estaban saliendo de la pandemia y todo fue bastante económico.
Espero haberte aclarado algo. Si tienes alguna duda pregunta sin problemas.
Es una experiencia muy bonita y enriquecedora.
Un saludo.
A mí lo de llevar porteadores me da bastante vergüenza. Yo subo con lo que necesito en mi mochila o no subo. Lo de llevar guía aún lo puedo aceptar, pero porteadores ni de coña jajaja. Muchas gracias!