SHUKU KANGRI: Animaren Oihua (Cry of the soul) 250M, D+
near Markha, Jammu and Kashmīr (India)
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Itinerary description
Sukhu Kangri (6005m) North Face. Animaren Oihua (250m,D), which means Cry of the Soul in basque.
This route (250m,D) goes parallel to the usual route and we think that could be a new route to it. We climbed around 100m at 50º without ropes until we reached a narrowing where we roped up. We found a short mixed section in the first pitch and but the rest was neve and ice at up to 70º to the ridge. From there, we joined the normal route to the summit.
We descended by the normal route. We abandoned a cordelette to abseil to the col, and later, due to the bad snow conditions because of the hot weather, we downclimbed, both pitching and moving together.
Esta ruta (250m, D) discurre paralela a la normal y creemos que puede ser una ruta nueva. Unos 100 m a 50 º que ascendimos sin cuerda hasta un estrechamiento, allí sacamos la cuerda. Nos encontramos un pequeño tramo de mixto en el primer largo y el resto máximo 70 º en nieve dura y hielo hasta el collado. A partir de allí llegamos a la cima por la ruta normal.
El descenso lo realizamos por la ruta normal. Abandonamos un cordino para realizar un rapel al inicio del collado, y después debido a las pésimas condiciones de la nieve por el calor, descendimos realizando destrepes asegurados y en ensamble.
Members of the expedition: Oskar Porras Aramendi and Sergio Martín de Santos.
This route (250m,D) goes parallel to the usual route and we think that could be a new route to it. We climbed around 100m at 50º without ropes until we reached a narrowing where we roped up. We found a short mixed section in the first pitch and but the rest was neve and ice at up to 70º to the ridge. From there, we joined the normal route to the summit.
We descended by the normal route. We abandoned a cordelette to abseil to the col, and later, due to the bad snow conditions because of the hot weather, we downclimbed, both pitching and moving together.
Esta ruta (250m, D) discurre paralela a la normal y creemos que puede ser una ruta nueva. Unos 100 m a 50 º que ascendimos sin cuerda hasta un estrechamiento, allí sacamos la cuerda. Nos encontramos un pequeño tramo de mixto en el primer largo y el resto máximo 70 º en nieve dura y hielo hasta el collado. A partir de allí llegamos a la cima por la ruta normal.
El descenso lo realizamos por la ruta normal. Abandonamos un cordino para realizar un rapel al inicio del collado, y después debido a las pésimas condiciones de la nieve por el calor, descendimos realizando destrepes asegurados y en ensamble.
Members of the expedition: Oskar Porras Aramendi and Sergio Martín de Santos.
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0 ft
GLACIER ENTRY
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