Pik Korjenevskaya, 7105
Trail photos
Author
Trail stats
- Distance
- 5.17 mi
- Elevation gain
- 9,311 ft
- Technical difficulty
- Moderate
- Elevation loss
- 341 ft
- Max elevation
- 23,311 ft
- TrailRank
- 59
- Min elevation
- 14,401 ft
- Trail type
- One Way
- Coordinates
- 1130
- Uploaded
- January 13, 2018
- Recorded
- January 2018
near Kandav, Republican Subordination (Tajikistan)
Viewed 1584 times, downloaded 76 times
Trail photos
Itinerary description
The Zetlin route is a steady ascent from the base camp at Alp Navruz to the summit. The phases are the following
- crossing of the glacier right behind the camp;
- ascent to a first flat sport marked by an old moraine;
- a further ascent on rocky terrain, with the aid of some metres of fixed rope;
- a traverse, in slight descent, leading below the overhanging tongue of a glacier;
- passing below this tongue: this is the most dangerous moment;
- a tiring ascent on the right side of the glacier: first on debris, then by a rocky ressaut where there is further fixed rope;
- Camp 5100;
- the ascent very close to a serac wall, leading to the glacier, at whose beginning there is a Camp 5300 alternative to Camp 5100;
- the ascent of the whole glacier, till below the mighty wall of the mountain;
- Camp 5800, right below the rocks;
- an oblique traverse to the saddle at 6100 m where one joins the summit ridge;
- a fixed rope followed by steep snow;
- the very panoramic Camp 6300;
- the final ridge;
- the summit.
The description will be improved next.
- crossing of the glacier right behind the camp;
- ascent to a first flat sport marked by an old moraine;
- a further ascent on rocky terrain, with the aid of some metres of fixed rope;
- a traverse, in slight descent, leading below the overhanging tongue of a glacier;
- passing below this tongue: this is the most dangerous moment;
- a tiring ascent on the right side of the glacier: first on debris, then by a rocky ressaut where there is further fixed rope;
- Camp 5100;
- the ascent very close to a serac wall, leading to the glacier, at whose beginning there is a Camp 5300 alternative to Camp 5100;
- the ascent of the whole glacier, till below the mighty wall of the mountain;
- Camp 5800, right below the rocks;
- an oblique traverse to the saddle at 6100 m where one joins the summit ridge;
- a fixed rope followed by steep snow;
- the very panoramic Camp 6300;
- the final ridge;
- the summit.
The description will be improved next.
Waypoints
Waypoint
14,296 ft
Camp Moskvina
This is the base camp both for Pik Korjenevskaja and for Pik Ismail Somoni, the former Communism Peak.
Waypoint
14,363 ft
Moskvina glacier
The ascent starts with the traversal of the glacier, which is right in contact with the base camp.
Panorama
Waypoint
15,761 ft
Below glacier tongue
This is the spot with the greatest objective dangers. Of course the traverse has to be done as quickly as possibile.
Waypoint
16,461 ft
Second fixed rope
On a short rock band short of the Camp 5100. The subsequent snowfields may require care.
Mountain pass
Waypoint
20,501 ft
Camp 6300
The last before the summit, and that were I shot the best photos. Here some panoramas in original size:
Waypoint
22,681 ft
Little below the summit
This is the point (probably 6900-7000 m) where turned back on my first summit attempt.
Summit
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