Mt Tibrogargan - Caves Route + Salmon Traverse
Trail photos
Author
Trail stats
- Distance
- 2.92 mi
- Elevation gain
- 1,125 ft
- Technical difficulty
- Difficult
- Elevation loss
- 1,119 ft
- Max elevation
- 1,173 ft
- TrailRank
- 17
- Min elevation
- 146 ft
- Trail type
- One Way
- Moving time
- one hour 24 minutes
- Time
- 2 hours 10 minutes
- Coordinates
- 741
- Uploaded
- August 31, 2019
- Recorded
- August 2019
near Glass House Mountains, Queensland (Australia)
Viewed 253 times, downloaded 10 times
Trail photos
Itinerary description
Caves Route: 4 pitches with bolted anchors. Grade 4 climbing.
Climbing is relatively easy but there is a bouldering move in the final pitch which starts with a chimney. The move is right at the start. It is graded 15 according to the Australian climbing system (Ewbank). This section can be bypassed by following the track that goes first westwards and then eastwards up on a gully or by contouring the rock face where the chimney is located to the right while passing through a cave and then going up again at the opposite end of the cave. Both options are more exposed, and the first being longer, but climbing is a lot easier.
The Salmon Traverse is not part of the route. It is a 4m traverse over a 60m vertical drop. It connects caves 3 & 4.
It is on the East side of the route right after cave 3. Approximately 20m away after climbing a small amphitheatre rock formation and then doing a short downclimb for another 10m before starting the traverse itself.
It has enough holds for both hands and feet but one can't afford a mistake as it would mean instant death. Some climbers have bolted the start and the end of the traverse to allow climbing parties to do it with a rope.
We did it in the spirit of the first ascender, Bert Salmon in the 1920s, unroped.
The return was via the tourist track. Grade 1.
Climbing is relatively easy but there is a bouldering move in the final pitch which starts with a chimney. The move is right at the start. It is graded 15 according to the Australian climbing system (Ewbank). This section can be bypassed by following the track that goes first westwards and then eastwards up on a gully or by contouring the rock face where the chimney is located to the right while passing through a cave and then going up again at the opposite end of the cave. Both options are more exposed, and the first being longer, but climbing is a lot easier.
The Salmon Traverse is not part of the route. It is a 4m traverse over a 60m vertical drop. It connects caves 3 & 4.
It is on the East side of the route right after cave 3. Approximately 20m away after climbing a small amphitheatre rock formation and then doing a short downclimb for another 10m before starting the traverse itself.
It has enough holds for both hands and feet but one can't afford a mistake as it would mean instant death. Some climbers have bolted the start and the end of the traverse to allow climbing parties to do it with a rope.
We did it in the spirit of the first ascender, Bert Salmon in the 1920s, unroped.
The return was via the tourist track. Grade 1.
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