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Mt. Javakhishvili (3A\AD)

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Trail stats

Distance
1.84 mi
Elevation gain
1,788 ft
Technical difficulty
Moderate
Elevation loss
1,788 ft
Max elevation
12,110 ft
TrailRank 
28
Min elevation
10,335 ft
Trail type
Loop
Time
9 hours 23 minutes
Coordinates
2055
Uploaded
July 27, 2023
Recorded
July 2023
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near Juta, Mtskheta-Mtianeti (Georgia)

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Itinerary description

Summary: Alpine climb in Chaukhi massive. Starts from Chaukhi high camp on 3150m. The first pitch is snow\scree (depends on season) couloir, leading to the saddle. From the saddle, climb left to the chimney (quite difficult - about V, but short), then 2 pitches of III-grade climbing, and the ridge, leading to the summit (grade II)
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Detailed Description for Mountaineering Route "Javaxishvili 3А (5а)"
Route Overview:
This mountaineering route, rated as 3А (AD), offers a challenging yet rewarding climb. It is important to note that early in the summer, there might be snow, and towards the end, you will encounter ice. The route consists of several pitches (R0 to R5) with well-defined stations for resting and belaying.
R0 to R1:
Begin your ascent in the Javakhishvili-Leonidze couloir, which may have snow at the start and ice towards the end. Proceed through this section until you reach a saddle where a large rock is located. There, you will find an existing anchor point where you can set up your first station using the available rope.
R1 to R2:
From the large rock, move to the left towards a chimney (10m, ~5 UIAA grade). A station has been established immediately above the chimney. Avoid stopping at this station. Instead, continue straight for about 5 meters and create a new anchor using the existing second station made of a pair of hooks and slings.
R2 to R3:
Next, follow a narrow traverse to the right (15m) that leads to the base of a wall. Set up a station on a rocky protrusion ("fang").
R3 to R4:
Climb the wall, which is of moderate difficulty (III grade). You will come across an intermediate station before reaching the next station, approximately 15-20 meters further, made with slings and pitons.
R4 to R5:
The climbing continues until you encounter a small wall with an overhang, where the final station is located (bolts)
R5 to Summit:
After the final station, you can proceed simultaneously, regardless of the group size. Follow the ridge (II UIAA grade, 80m) that leads to the summit of Javaxishvili (3644m).

Descent:
For the descent, it is advisable to have two ropes of 60m or 50m length each. Descend following the same route as the ascent, except for the last pitch. When descending to the second station above the first chimney, rappel not into the chimney but directly onto the saddle with the large rock.

Equipment Needed for the Route:
Rope: It is recommended to have two ropes (8mm, 50m, 60m).
Friends: 3-4 of sizes 2 and 3
Slings: 2 loops.
Quickdraws: 3-4, preferably longer ones.
Belay Device
Crampons for the colouir

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