Día 3 Eslovenia. De refugio Bodnikov a refugio Bogatinon
Trail photos
Author
Trail stats
- Distance
- 12.95 mi
- Elevation gain
- 3,038 ft
- Technical difficulty
- Difficult
- Elevation loss
- 4,055 ft
- Max elevation
- 7,757 ft
- TrailRank
- 51
- Min elevation
- 4,962 ft
- Trail type
- One Way
- Moving time
- 6 hours 54 minutes
- Time
- 9 hours 22 minutes
- Coordinates
- 3777
- Uploaded
- June 20, 2023
- Recorded
- June 2023
near Jezerce, Bohinj (Slovenija)
Viewed 104 times, downloaded 4 times
Trail photos
Itinerary description
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June 20, 2023. Passing a mountain pass of 2350 meters with a lot of soft snow.
From Vodnikov to Bogatinom, changing the glacial valley.
And we had climbed the day before Triglav, the national summit of Slovenia that every Slovenian must do at some point in their life, an adventure that is vertical and exciting, dizzying and one of the most joyous that a mountaineer can do without being in excessive danger...
And it had dawned, and after breakfasting on bread with pâté and some tea, skipping my gluten-free and cereal-free diet excessively, we said goodbye to Robert, our fellow summiteer from the day before, and to the couple from Madrid who were going to climb that same day, we wished them luck and set out on our way to the Bogatinom refuge. Berliners who had crossed it two days ago, and me with summer boots that will slip on and with smooth soles, it will be fun...
We have to find the path that does not go down to the bottom of the glacial valley that we are going to cross because we are going to its head and we do not want to lose height.
César tells me to follow the track that is losing little slope, he stands in front marking the pace.
I'm really bad, I shouldn't have eaten bread, I've had an asthma attack and I'm suffocating, until after half an hour I decide to use the asthma device, I'm suffering too much even if I do it from time to time to prepare myself for the big summits, because you go up there with less oxygen, that is, at those heights it's as if everyone were asthmatic like me.
We cross the dry stream of the river that in this section became underground and between meadows and forests we leave behind the shelter where we spent the night, and we go south of Triglav looking west towards the other valley.
We begin to climb and the vegetation is disappearing, we see how the valley narrows and steepens at the same time that the rock is present everywhere and we see the snow that begins to appear as we expected from it.
We have to use GPS to follow the path covered by snow, we turn to the right to cross a slope covered with snow and with a steep slope and fall...
Now we understand the embarrassment of the Berliners when doing this route, we miss the crampons but they don't travel in the airplane cabin and if you go backpacking you have to limit your luggage and trust your skills in soft snow that is not little at this point in mountain life...
I am leading the way, I can hardly see any tracks from the day before, my boots have soaked in after half an hour in the snow, step by step concentrated, digging in the poles well and being clear that you slip and fall, face the snow and spread your legs and arms trying to plunge the poles horizontally into the snow, I learned it a few years ago in a hundred-meter fall, I had taken a detention course but they did not explain to me how to act in soft snow, and I learned it in three seconds, and luckily I learned it on the fly or possibly I wouldn't be writing these lines...
We have passed the first slope, now comes another one that is a little more lying down but its end is with a very deep ravine, slowly and with good steps, it is a way of meditating...
We are already below the pass, we have to go up a steep slope, but suddenly without expecting it we see a lonely young blonde perfectly equipped with her helmet and her ice ax going down the slope, opening the trail for us, for us it was our angel, although she barely looked at us as she passed us, but she left us the path open in the snow to the top of the mountain pass, when she looked like we would have to fight it a lot.
We reach the top, we will change the valley and from here we will look for the last time at the Triglav that remains behind us...
We look for the path on the GPS, it's all covered in snow and you can't see it, and we have to cross the pass, the snow is perfect, we could run down it if we wanted to, now we begin to really enjoy the day...
We advance very quickly, taking special care when the snow approaches the rocks, because underneath there is usually an invisible hole that swallows you, because the sun heats the rock and melts it underneath without you seeing it...
We get into another very steep slope, but when the progress becomes very difficult, the path turns towards an area without snow that makes us descend safely, now we understand the anguish of the Berliners when crossing the port in short pants and in the opposite direction to ours that has a lot of soft snow on the rise, they had to sweat and skate a lot.
In the background we see a refuge that we will not go to and we come across a lake full of snow on its edge, small, from which I am not able to reproduce its name. There we find a Frenchman who walks alone and asks us how the port is, he is doing an alpine route that crosses the entire Juliana Mountain Range, we wish him luck with the soft snow, but in the end he will stay in the refuge that we see in the background.
We continue going down in a hurry, because we have a small problem, we have to arrive before five in the afternoon because the reservation would be cancelled, César does not stop calling when he gets a bit of coverage, but the phone is not picked up, he also tries to send emails because the destination phone does not have "Watshapp", but there is no way.
We have arrived by going down to a fairly large lake, "Ledvica Jesero", we stopped for a moment to take photos after climbing a small prominence on the ground that acts as a viewpoint and I record a video.
We begin to surround ourselves with forest and continue downhill, César tells me that we will arrive at a refuge with a very beautiful lake but it is closed, they won't open it until next week, César would have liked to sleep here but we have to continue to the one in Bogatinom, which is open and we made a reservation, which is about 8 km away and should be downhill, but the wikiloc track says that we still have 400 meters of unevenness to go up and 200 to go down, he seems crazy the track.
We stop a moment in the shelter called “Triglavskih Jezerih” or shelter from the Lake of the Park, there are some tourists, I find a source to satisfy my thirst, César takes advantage of the fact that they are preparing the shelter to open it next week and requested a beer, keep trying to contact the shelter that we are going without getting it, we will hardly arrive before five in the afternoon, we would have to run a lot and Tourist makes us some of us asking for it.
You have to continue, the forest is thick and after leaving the “Dvojno Jezero” lake behind, a very vertical descent begins between the trees, the next two hours we will spend continuously descending and ascent, because being a calcareous or Karstic relief, the mountain collapses force you to climb continuously to avoid obstacles, being careful not to get off the path because you could be swallowed by a chasm of an underground cave...
The road seems to go through a jungle due to the thickness of the vegetation, and for two hours we went up and down, down and up, and up, the 400 meter drop was correct, until we finally see our refuge below, it is 5:20 in the afternoon, we will arrive only half an hour later than required.
When we entered, we immediately realized why they didn't pick up the phone for us, the shelter is run by an older couple, he is in charge of the bar and reception and she is in the kitchen, and he doesn't know a word in English, he doesn't even say the number of the room that he gives us, with capacity for four people but we will be the two of us, which is appreciated, because the shelter is full of teenagers, and of course, they are very noisy...
We spent the afternoon quietly until dinner, after a shower of just two minutes for 5 euros, the water was not drinkable in theory because of the sign they put in the toilets, but it was very cold and the teenagers filled the bottles ignoring the signs.
At dinner they only gave us a plate and no dessert, we liked the other refuge better even though it was from the same company..., the food was much better and there was more of a mountaineering atmosphere, we are located on the vertical of Lake Bohinj quite far from Triglav and here we see hikers and most of them are teenagers, tomorrow will be another day.
From Vodnikov to Bogatinom, changing the glacial valley.
And we had climbed the day before Triglav, the national summit of Slovenia that every Slovenian must do at some point in their life, an adventure that is vertical and exciting, dizzying and one of the most joyous that a mountaineer can do without being in excessive danger...
And it had dawned, and after breakfasting on bread with pâté and some tea, skipping my gluten-free and cereal-free diet excessively, we said goodbye to Robert, our fellow summiteer from the day before, and to the couple from Madrid who were going to climb that same day, we wished them luck and set out on our way to the Bogatinom refuge. Berliners who had crossed it two days ago, and me with summer boots that will slip on and with smooth soles, it will be fun...
We have to find the path that does not go down to the bottom of the glacial valley that we are going to cross because we are going to its head and we do not want to lose height.
César tells me to follow the track that is losing little slope, he stands in front marking the pace.
I'm really bad, I shouldn't have eaten bread, I've had an asthma attack and I'm suffocating, until after half an hour I decide to use the asthma device, I'm suffering too much even if I do it from time to time to prepare myself for the big summits, because you go up there with less oxygen, that is, at those heights it's as if everyone were asthmatic like me.
We cross the dry stream of the river that in this section became underground and between meadows and forests we leave behind the shelter where we spent the night, and we go south of Triglav looking west towards the other valley.
We begin to climb and the vegetation is disappearing, we see how the valley narrows and steepens at the same time that the rock is present everywhere and we see the snow that begins to appear as we expected from it.
We have to use GPS to follow the path covered by snow, we turn to the right to cross a slope covered with snow and with a steep slope and fall...
Now we understand the embarrassment of the Berliners when doing this route, we miss the crampons but they don't travel in the airplane cabin and if you go backpacking you have to limit your luggage and trust your skills in soft snow that is not little at this point in mountain life...
I am leading the way, I can hardly see any tracks from the day before, my boots have soaked in after half an hour in the snow, step by step concentrated, digging in the poles well and being clear that you slip and fall, face the snow and spread your legs and arms trying to plunge the poles horizontally into the snow, I learned it a few years ago in a hundred-meter fall, I had taken a detention course but they did not explain to me how to act in soft snow, and I learned it in three seconds, and luckily I learned it on the fly or possibly I wouldn't be writing these lines...
We have passed the first slope, now comes another one that is a little more lying down but its end is with a very deep ravine, slowly and with good steps, it is a way of meditating...
We are already below the pass, we have to go up a steep slope, but suddenly without expecting it we see a lonely young blonde perfectly equipped with her helmet and her ice ax going down the slope, opening the trail for us, for us it was our angel, although she barely looked at us as she passed us, but she left us the path open in the snow to the top of the mountain pass, when she looked like we would have to fight it a lot.
We reach the top, we will change the valley and from here we will look for the last time at the Triglav that remains behind us...
We look for the path on the GPS, it's all covered in snow and you can't see it, and we have to cross the pass, the snow is perfect, we could run down it if we wanted to, now we begin to really enjoy the day...
We advance very quickly, taking special care when the snow approaches the rocks, because underneath there is usually an invisible hole that swallows you, because the sun heats the rock and melts it underneath without you seeing it...
We get into another very steep slope, but when the progress becomes very difficult, the path turns towards an area without snow that makes us descend safely, now we understand the anguish of the Berliners when crossing the port in short pants and in the opposite direction to ours that has a lot of soft snow on the rise, they had to sweat and skate a lot.
In the background we see a refuge that we will not go to and we come across a lake full of snow on its edge, small, from which I am not able to reproduce its name. There we find a Frenchman who walks alone and asks us how the port is, he is doing an alpine route that crosses the entire Juliana Mountain Range, we wish him luck with the soft snow, but in the end he will stay in the refuge that we see in the background.
We continue going down in a hurry, because we have a small problem, we have to arrive before five in the afternoon because the reservation would be cancelled, César does not stop calling when he gets a bit of coverage, but the phone is not picked up, he also tries to send emails because the destination phone does not have "Watshapp", but there is no way.
We have arrived by going down to a fairly large lake, "Ledvica Jesero", we stopped for a moment to take photos after climbing a small prominence on the ground that acts as a viewpoint and I record a video.
We begin to surround ourselves with forest and continue downhill, César tells me that we will arrive at a refuge with a very beautiful lake but it is closed, they won't open it until next week, César would have liked to sleep here but we have to continue to the one in Bogatinom, which is open and we made a reservation, which is about 8 km away and should be downhill, but the wikiloc track says that we still have 400 meters of unevenness to go up and 200 to go down, he seems crazy the track.
We stop a moment in the shelter called “Triglavskih Jezerih” or shelter from the Lake of the Park, there are some tourists, I find a source to satisfy my thirst, César takes advantage of the fact that they are preparing the shelter to open it next week and requested a beer, keep trying to contact the shelter that we are going without getting it, we will hardly arrive before five in the afternoon, we would have to run a lot and Tourist makes us some of us asking for it.
You have to continue, the forest is thick and after leaving the “Dvojno Jezero” lake behind, a very vertical descent begins between the trees, the next two hours we will spend continuously descending and ascent, because being a calcareous or Karstic relief, the mountain collapses force you to climb continuously to avoid obstacles, being careful not to get off the path because you could be swallowed by a chasm of an underground cave...
The road seems to go through a jungle due to the thickness of the vegetation, and for two hours we went up and down, down and up, and up, the 400 meter drop was correct, until we finally see our refuge below, it is 5:20 in the afternoon, we will arrive only half an hour later than required.
When we entered, we immediately realized why they didn't pick up the phone for us, the shelter is run by an older couple, he is in charge of the bar and reception and she is in the kitchen, and he doesn't know a word in English, he doesn't even say the number of the room that he gives us, with capacity for four people but we will be the two of us, which is appreciated, because the shelter is full of teenagers, and of course, they are very noisy...
We spent the afternoon quietly until dinner, after a shower of just two minutes for 5 euros, the water was not drinkable in theory because of the sign they put in the toilets, but it was very cold and the teenagers filled the bottles ignoring the signs.
At dinner they only gave us a plate and no dessert, we liked the other refuge better even though it was from the same company..., the food was much better and there was more of a mountaineering atmosphere, we are located on the vertical of Lake Bohinj quite far from Triglav and here we see hikers and most of them are teenagers, tomorrow will be another day.
Waypoints
Waypoint
5,994 ft
Intersection
Lake
Mountain hut
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