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Portezuelo de la Divisoria

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Trail stats

Distance
79.04 mi
Elevation gain
3,990 ft
Technical difficulty
Moderate
Elevation loss
4,462 ft
Max elevation
2,360 ft
TrailRank 
62
Min elevation
785 ft
Trail type
One Way
Time
2 days 4 hours 15 minutes
Coordinates
4721
Uploaded
February 9, 2017
Recorded
March 2014
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near El Chaltén, Santa Cruz (Argentina)

Viewed 6137 times, downloaded 28 times

Trail photos

Photo ofPortezuelo de la Divisoria Photo ofPortezuelo de la Divisoria Photo ofPortezuelo de la Divisoria

Itinerary description

When some years ago I first studied this route, it seemed to be a pioneering endeavour. Now it seems to have become folklore in the so called "adventure-cycling" arena.
Actually, this crossing between El Chaltén and Villa O'Higgins allows to link the classical tours of southern Patagonia (Paine, Calafate, El Chaltén) to the Carretera Austral. To be honest, it does not involve that much of cycling, since most is done by pushing and by boat. Specifically, one can distinguish the following stretches:
1) unpaved road from El Chaltén to Lago del Desierto;
2) boat through all the whole Lago del Desierto;
3) pushing from the Lago to the Portezuelo;
4) cycling from the Portezuelo down to Candelario Mansilla;
5) boat from Candelario to Puerto Bahamondez;
6) unpaved but nearly perfect road from Bahamondez to Villa O'Higgins.

1) is straightforward, and may be very spectacular in a clear sun day. I had this while coming back from Piedra del Fraile, see for example my track Marconi - Pollone - Cuadrado.
2) marks the main difference with respect to what I had studied years ago. Namely, at the time one was expected to push on a bushy path throughout the whole side of the lake, an operation accounting for several demanding hours. Now the availability of a boat connection makes all very simple. The boat was cheap, I guess that with increasing popularity the prices will readily rise!
3) is perhaps the most peculiar stretch. Allow for it a whole afternoon, because with loaded bicycles it is hard work. The photos demonstrate well the nature of the terrain
4) is also scenic, you have the rare experience to cycle on a little airport - the little one of Laguna Redonda. Consider, however, that this is a rule in southern Chile, and you can do the same also in Caleta Tortel or similar isolated spots. You end up in Candelario Mansilla, a truly unique place, connected to civilization only by a boat running twice a week - this, at least, in summer. Here you find only the station of Carabineros and the house inhabited by Justa Mansilla, a descendant of Candelario.
5) is the most spectacular phase, due to the unique colour of the lake, and to its oceanic waves, which can also forbid navigation at all. We needed to wait one day in Candelario, camping in the meadow above Justa's house, and because of the high waves the boat ferried us directly to Puerto Bahamondez, without the usual detour to the glacier. In spite of this, I guess, they make us pay the whole price, which incidentally is totally disproportioned to the standards of the region. To be honest, I guess that even high waves were also an excuse, probably they wait that both in Villa O'Higgins and in Candelario there be plenty of waiting tourists (nearly all cyclists), such to maximize the income... Namely, we navigated with such powerful waves that I cannot figure out how the previous day they could be expected to be higher.
Finally, 6) accounts only for seven kilometres, not many in comparison to the 1240 more that are waiting for you on the Carretera Austral!

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Waypoints

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,324 ft
Photo ofEl Chalten Photo ofEl Chalten Photo ofEl Chalten

El Chalten

PictographRiver Altitude 1,312 ft
Photo ofRio de Las Vueltas Photo ofRio de Las Vueltas Photo ofRio de Las Vueltas

Rio de Las Vueltas

PictographWaterfall Altitude 1,337 ft
Photo ofChorillo del Salto Photo ofChorillo del Salto

Chorillo del Salto

View on the popular waterfall.

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,408 ft

Pasarela Las Vueltas

PictographBridge Altitude 1,461 ft
Photo ofPuente Rio Electrico Photo ofPuente Rio Electrico Photo ofPuente Rio Electrico

Puente Rio Electrico

PictographLake Altitude 1,486 ft
Photo ofLaguna Condor Photo ofLaguna Condor Photo ofLaguna Condor

Laguna Condor

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,531 ft
Photo ofFitzroy Expediciones Photo ofFitzroy Expediciones

Fitzroy Expediciones

PictographBridge Altitude 1,564 ft
Photo ofPuente El Puesto Photo ofPuente El Puesto Photo ofPuente El Puesto

Puente El Puesto

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,560 ft
Photo ofEl Puesto Photo ofEl Puesto Photo ofEl Puesto

El Puesto

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,687 ft
Photo ofCapilla de Loreto Photo ofCapilla de Loreto Photo ofCapilla de Loreto

Capilla de Loreto

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,631 ft
Photo ofHarbour Desierto Photo ofHarbour Desierto Photo ofHarbour Desierto

Harbour Desierto

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,612 ft
Photo ofGlacier view Photo ofGlacier view

Glacier view

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,586 ft
Photo ofCarabineros Desierto Photo ofCarabineros Desierto Photo ofCarabineros Desierto

Carabineros Desierto

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,649 ft
Photo ofUphill stretch Photo ofUphill stretch Photo ofUphill stretch

Uphill stretch

Pushing is mandatory here.

PictographPanorama Altitude 1,953 ft
Photo ofView on Lago del Desierto Photo ofView on Lago del Desierto Photo ofView on Lago del Desierto

View on Lago del Desierto

With the Fitzroy looming in the background, this is perhaps a great moment fro people coming in the reverse direction.

PictographWaypoint Altitude 2,067 ft
Photo ofNarrow stretch Photo ofNarrow stretch Photo ofNarrow stretch

Narrow stretch

PictographLake Altitude 2,226 ft
Photo ofLaguna Larga Photo ofLaguna Larga Photo ofLaguna Larga

Laguna Larga

Here we camped.

PictographWaypoint Altitude 2,305 ft
Photo ofPortezuelo Photo ofPortezuelo Photo ofPortezuelo

Portezuelo

Orographic saddle and border crossing. One of the most original in the world!

PictographWaypoint Altitude 2,037 ft
Photo ofAerodromo Laguna Redonda Photo ofAerodromo Laguna Redonda Photo ofAerodromo Laguna Redonda

Aerodromo Laguna Redonda

PictographBridge Altitude 1,997 ft
Photo ofBridge after Aerodromo Photo ofBridge after Aerodromo

Bridge after Aerodromo

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,766 ft
Photo ofFirst view on lake Photo ofFirst view on lake

First view on lake

PictographPanorama Altitude 1,355 ft
Photo ofPanorama on Lago O'Higgins

Panorama on Lago O'Higgins

Larger version on Google

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,018 ft
Photo ofAbandoned buildings Photo ofAbandoned buildings Photo ofAbandoned buildings

Abandoned buildings

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,000 ft
Photo ofRocks Photo ofRocks Photo ofRocks

Rocks

PictographWaypoint Altitude 1,003 ft
Photo ofCarabineros Photo ofCarabineros

Carabineros

PictographWilderness hut Altitude 988 ft
Photo ofHouse of Justa Mansilla Photo ofHouse of Justa Mansilla Photo ofHouse of Justa Mansilla

House of Justa Mansilla

PictographWaypoint Altitude 842 ft
Photo ofHarbour of Candelario Photo ofHarbour of Candelario Photo ofHarbour of Candelario

Harbour of Candelario

PictographPanorama Altitude 841 ft
Photo ofPanorama from the boat Photo ofPanorama from the boat Photo ofPanorama from the boat

Panorama from the boat

Larger version on Google
Explanation on PPH

PictographWaypoint Altitude 834 ft
Photo ofEntering north branch Photo ofEntering north branch

Entering north branch

PictographWaypoint Altitude 882 ft
Photo ofNorth branch Photo ofNorth branch Photo ofNorth branch

North branch

PictographWaypoint Altitude 801 ft
Photo ofPuerto Bahamondez Photo ofPuerto Bahamondez Photo ofPuerto Bahamondez

Puerto Bahamondez

Actual south end of the Carretera Austral.

PictographPanorama Altitude 869 ft
Photo ofTwo-color point Photo ofTwo-color point Photo ofTwo-color point

Two-color point

PictographBridge Altitude 874 ft
Photo ofPuente Grosse Photo ofPuente Grosse Photo ofPuente Grosse

Puente Grosse

PictographWaypoint Altitude 892 ft
Photo ofVilla O'Higgins Photo ofVilla O'Higgins

Villa O'Higgins

Farthest village of the Carretera Austral.

PictographWaypoint Altitude 886 ft
Photo ofBest Fries Photo ofBest Fries Photo ofBest Fries

Best Fries

PictographReligious site Altitude 892 ft
Photo ofIglesia Photo ofIglesia

Iglesia

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