Albania
near Durrës, Durrës (Albania)
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Trail photos
STAGE 1: Durres - Kruje (Durazzo - Cruia)
Take the SH2 highway to Tirana and exit at Vore. Here take the SH52 to Kruje.
To visit the fortress and the old town.
TRAVEL DURATION: 1H
STAGE 1B: Kruje - Theth (Cruia - Thethi)
Go back to SH1 towards Lezhe / Shkoder. Continue on SH1 to Koplik and then join SH21 towards Boge. Continue to Qafa Buni i Thores, where the dirt road to Theth begins.
If you like walking, take a couple of days to hike as the landscape deserves a lot.
TRAVEL DURATION: 4H
STAGE 2: Theth - Koman
Retrace the dirt road and the SH21 up to resume the SH1 towards Shkoder. Continue to the intersection of SH28. (If you want you can stop at the Shkoder fortress)
Continue on SH28 which will later become SH5. After Vau i Dejes turn left taking the SH25 towards Koman. The road is unpaved for some stretches so I advise you not to run.
Once in Koman I recommend a boat ride along the artificial lake.
If you want you can also take the ferry to reach Valbona or Fries.
TRAVEL DURATION: 4H
STAGE 3: Koman - Tirana
Retrace SH25 to SH5 to continue on SH28. Arrived at the SH1 continue towards Lezhe / Tirana.
To visit the Blloku district, Skenderberg square and Parku i Madh i Tiranes.
NB The National History Museum is worth a visit but it is really badly organized and worse managed.
TRAVEL DURATION: 4H
STAGE 4: Tirana - Berat
Take the A3 to Elbasan. Turn towards the SH70 towards Mjekes. After Kuqan take the SH71 to Gramsh. Turn right towards Shemrize to take the dirt road that leads to Berat through the Kombetar Mali i Tomorrit Park. Unfortunately we had to stop here due to a landslide that prevented us from continuing. For this reason the wide lap is marked on the track.
NB the dirt road inside the park is really difficult, I do not recommend it for anyone with heavy bikes.
In Berat visit the old town and fortress.
TRAVEL DURATION: 6H (we took 9 hours due to the landslide)
STAGE 5: Berat - Gjirokaster
Take the SH74 dirt road that from Drobonik (just outside Berat) leads to Buz. At the crossroads continue on the SH74 towards Kondas (this second part of the dirt road is very difficult).
NB Beware of shepherd dogs who do not look favorably on motorbikes.
Continue on SH74 up to Kelcyre (from Ballaban onwards the road returns to asphalt). Once you arrive you can decide whether to make a quick stop in Permet or go straight to Gjirokastra. Having got up late in the morning, we opted to go direct to Gjirokastra.
Then continue on the SH75 up to the SH4. Here take direction Gjirokaster.
To visit the old town, Ottoman villas (Zekate House above all), fortress and if you have time an ethnographic museum.
TRIP DURATION: 6H
STAGE 6: Gjirokaster - Syri i Kalter (Blue Eye National Park)
Take the SH4 and continue to the junction for Jorgucat from here go up the SH99 to the junction with the dirt road that leads to the Blue Eye.
We ran away for the amount of people present. If visited in less touristy months it is probably an even more interesting natural spectacle.
TRAVEL DURATION: 30M
STAGE 6B: Syri i Kalter (Blue Eye National Park) - Ksamil
Continue on the SH99 until Sarande. Here take the SH81 towards Ksamil.
Our hotel was the Hotel Livia right next to the archaeological park of Butrint. If you want to stay out of the casino I highly recommend it.
If you want to enjoy the Greek sea but at a cost of 0, take a couple of days to take a couple of baths in beautiful water. In the map I have marked some beaches.
Absolutely to visit the Butrint park.
TRAVEL DURATION: 2H
STAGE 7: Ksamil - Gjipe Beach
Retrace the SH81 to Sarande. Take the SH8 towards Vlore. Past Himare turn left at the crossroads for Gjipe Beach. When you arrive at the car park, take the dirt road to the beach. The terrain is full of rocks with very challenging passages.
The beach and the sea are incredible.
TRAVEL DURATION: 2H
STAGE 7B: Gjipe Beach - Zvernec
Take the SH8 towards Vlore again. The road continues to the pass of the Kombetar Llogara Park through a beautiful landscape that offers exceptional views. Once in Vlore, turn onto Rruga Kosova towards Zvernec.
We stayed in one of the many campsites along the beach (I recommend Ecuador Resort).
To visit the island of Zvernec.
TRAVEL DURATION: 2H
STAGE 8: Zvernec - Apollonia Archaeological Park
Take the A2 highway and exit at Pojan. From here continue on the road following the signs for the Archaeological Park of Apollonia.
NB In the map there is a stop in Fier that we made for a bite to eat. However there is not much to see in this city.
TRAVEL DURATION: 30M
STAGE 8B: Apollonia Archaeological Park - Durres
Continue on the A2 which will then become SH4 up to Durres.
Visit the amphitheater and the old town.
TRAVEL DURATION: 2H
Take the SH2 highway to Tirana and exit at Vore. Here take the SH52 to Kruje.
To visit the fortress and the old town.
TRAVEL DURATION: 1H
STAGE 1B: Kruje - Theth (Cruia - Thethi)
Go back to SH1 towards Lezhe / Shkoder. Continue on SH1 to Koplik and then join SH21 towards Boge. Continue to Qafa Buni i Thores, where the dirt road to Theth begins.
If you like walking, take a couple of days to hike as the landscape deserves a lot.
TRAVEL DURATION: 4H
STAGE 2: Theth - Koman
Retrace the dirt road and the SH21 up to resume the SH1 towards Shkoder. Continue to the intersection of SH28. (If you want you can stop at the Shkoder fortress)
Continue on SH28 which will later become SH5. After Vau i Dejes turn left taking the SH25 towards Koman. The road is unpaved for some stretches so I advise you not to run.
Once in Koman I recommend a boat ride along the artificial lake.
If you want you can also take the ferry to reach Valbona or Fries.
TRAVEL DURATION: 4H
STAGE 3: Koman - Tirana
Retrace SH25 to SH5 to continue on SH28. Arrived at the SH1 continue towards Lezhe / Tirana.
To visit the Blloku district, Skenderberg square and Parku i Madh i Tiranes.
NB The National History Museum is worth a visit but it is really badly organized and worse managed.
TRAVEL DURATION: 4H
STAGE 4: Tirana - Berat
Take the A3 to Elbasan. Turn towards the SH70 towards Mjekes. After Kuqan take the SH71 to Gramsh. Turn right towards Shemrize to take the dirt road that leads to Berat through the Kombetar Mali i Tomorrit Park. Unfortunately we had to stop here due to a landslide that prevented us from continuing. For this reason the wide lap is marked on the track.
NB the dirt road inside the park is really difficult, I do not recommend it for anyone with heavy bikes.
In Berat visit the old town and fortress.
TRAVEL DURATION: 6H (we took 9 hours due to the landslide)
STAGE 5: Berat - Gjirokaster
Take the SH74 dirt road that from Drobonik (just outside Berat) leads to Buz. At the crossroads continue on the SH74 towards Kondas (this second part of the dirt road is very difficult).
NB Beware of shepherd dogs who do not look favorably on motorbikes.
Continue on SH74 up to Kelcyre (from Ballaban onwards the road returns to asphalt). Once you arrive you can decide whether to make a quick stop in Permet or go straight to Gjirokastra. Having got up late in the morning, we opted to go direct to Gjirokastra.
Then continue on the SH75 up to the SH4. Here take direction Gjirokaster.
To visit the old town, Ottoman villas (Zekate House above all), fortress and if you have time an ethnographic museum.
TRIP DURATION: 6H
STAGE 6: Gjirokaster - Syri i Kalter (Blue Eye National Park)
Take the SH4 and continue to the junction for Jorgucat from here go up the SH99 to the junction with the dirt road that leads to the Blue Eye.
We ran away for the amount of people present. If visited in less touristy months it is probably an even more interesting natural spectacle.
TRAVEL DURATION: 30M
STAGE 6B: Syri i Kalter (Blue Eye National Park) - Ksamil
Continue on the SH99 until Sarande. Here take the SH81 towards Ksamil.
Our hotel was the Hotel Livia right next to the archaeological park of Butrint. If you want to stay out of the casino I highly recommend it.
If you want to enjoy the Greek sea but at a cost of 0, take a couple of days to take a couple of baths in beautiful water. In the map I have marked some beaches.
Absolutely to visit the Butrint park.
TRAVEL DURATION: 2H
STAGE 7: Ksamil - Gjipe Beach
Retrace the SH81 to Sarande. Take the SH8 towards Vlore. Past Himare turn left at the crossroads for Gjipe Beach. When you arrive at the car park, take the dirt road to the beach. The terrain is full of rocks with very challenging passages.
The beach and the sea are incredible.
TRAVEL DURATION: 2H
STAGE 7B: Gjipe Beach - Zvernec
Take the SH8 towards Vlore again. The road continues to the pass of the Kombetar Llogara Park through a beautiful landscape that offers exceptional views. Once in Vlore, turn onto Rruga Kosova towards Zvernec.
We stayed in one of the many campsites along the beach (I recommend Ecuador Resort).
To visit the island of Zvernec.
TRAVEL DURATION: 2H
STAGE 8: Zvernec - Apollonia Archaeological Park
Take the A2 highway and exit at Pojan. From here continue on the road following the signs for the Archaeological Park of Apollonia.
NB In the map there is a stop in Fier that we made for a bite to eat. However there is not much to see in this city.
TRAVEL DURATION: 30M
STAGE 8B: Apollonia Archaeological Park - Durres
Continue on the A2 which will then become SH4 up to Durres.
Visit the amphitheater and the old town.
TRAVEL DURATION: 2H
Waypoints
Comments (2)
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Bellissimo il percorso che hai fatto, lo farò a Giugno, hai qualche consiglio da darmi?
Ciao.
Buongiorno,
non so se a seguito di tutta questa brutta storia del COVID19 riuscirai a partire lo stesso, in ogni caso, augurandoti il meglio, ti dico la mia:
1. Cerca di fare quasi tutto il percorso fuori strada perché i paesaggi sono stupendi e non incontri turismo di massa.
2. TAPPE OBBLIGATORIE (almeno a mio avviso): La valle di Theth; Berat e Argirocastro (Gjirokaster) passando per la SH74; Il parco archeologico di Butrinto e la penisola di Ksamil; Il parco archeologico di Apollonia.
3. Nella TAPPA 3 invece di tornare indietro sulla strada, se riesci prendi il traghetto fino a Fierze da qui puoi prendere la SH22 fino a Fushe Arrezz e poi la SH30 che ti riporta fino alla E851 che in meno di 15 minuti ti fa arrivare a Tirana. Inizialmente volevo fare questo percorso, ma per ragioni di tempo ho dovuto optare per la strada classica.
4. Nella TAPPA4, come ho scritto, noi abbiamo provato ad affrontare lo sterrato che attraversa il Parco Kombetar Mali i Tomorrit. I paesaggi sono mozzafiato (campi di lavanda, mucche, prati, laghetti), ma la strada è molto, molto difficile. Io l'ho affrontata con una F 800 GS e non ti nego che ho dovuto più volte far scendere mia moglie / spingere la moto a mano. Il percorso è solo per chi va a piedi, in enduro o con fuoristrada di piccolo taglio. Se hai una moto leggera puoi comunque farlo, tuttavia lo sforzo fisico per affrontarlo è notevole.
Noi non siamo riusciti a finirlo a causa di una frana, quindi se riesci a farlo tutto fino a Berat sappi che ti ruberò le foto dell'ultimo pezzo di tratta :).
3. Nella TAPPA 6 spero tu abbia più fortuna di noi con la visita al Blue Eye. Facendo questo viaggio ad Agosto abbiamo trovato una marea di turisti con pulman e guide a seguito. Siamo letteralmente scappati, ma il posto è magico.
4. Tutto il sud dell'Albania è molto simile alla Grecia a livello di costa. Il mare è bellissimo, ma vale quanto scritto sopra: se lo fai in piena stagione turistica è alla stregua di Rimini per affollamento umano.
Ti consiglio la spiaggia di Gjipe, più isolata e con un mare mozzafiato.
5. Se hai il tempo fai una sosta anche al Parco Nazionale di Llogara. Anche qui rimpiango di non essermi fermato.
Perdona la prolissità del messaggio, spero comunque di esserti stato utile. :)