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Incoronate: le isole della luna

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Trail stats

Distance
70.56 nm
Elevation gain
341 ft
Technical difficulty
Difficult
Elevation loss
604 ft
Max elevation
209 ft
TrailRank 
41
Min elevation
-119 ft
Trail type
One Way
Coordinates
3010
Uploaded
August 18, 2013
Recorded
August 2013
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near Dobropoljana, Zadarska (Hrvatska)

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Photo ofIncoronate: le isole della luna Photo ofIncoronate: le isole della luna Photo ofIncoronate: le isole della luna

Itinerary description

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sea ​​kayak
Crowned: the islands of the moon.

MANY WONDERS SPONG TO THE RICHS ON "IRONS FROM IRONING": you can not see from the yachts enchanted caves, rock mosaics, dream bays ...

Breezy and devoid of vegetation, the 152 Kornati islands truly recall the lunar landscapes. It's a world to discover by relying on kayak, to fully enjoy an adventure at Robinson Crusoe. In the summer, twice a week, a boat painted red runs around the Kornati archipelago. When they see her arrive, the women of the houses (a few), enclosed in the bays protected by the wind, take the bags and approach the pier. And tourists (a few even in mid-August!) Run on the pier. This boat is the Kornati supermarket. In the hold there are fresh bread, eggs, tomatoes ... Newspaper two days before for those who want to know how the world goes. The life of Robinson's emanating holidaymakers on these islands swept by the bora or the mistral. Little rainwater, collected in huge terraces, to be taken to the well, electric light produced by solar panels, connection to mobile and unstable or non-existent internet. Who has chosen to cross the archipelago alone and aboard a sea kayak of m. 5.27 is not a masochist. rather he chose to live with and for the sea. Which is not just any sea here. It is cleaner, saltier, livelier. In a word, it is THE SEA. Defining the Konati is barren is a euphemism: the trees are very few and the landscape is truly lunar. But this stone that emerges from the sea contains many stories to tell. Describing the nuances of this sea, the cliffs that plunge into the abysses of the islands that look out to the open sea is almost impossible. The landscape is simply superb and it is no coincidence that the film The Odyssey was filmed on the island of Mana: it was the palace where Penelope was scanning the sea, waiting for Ulysses. In fact, the island of Mana, like all the others that give life to this labyrinth, are privately owned. Mana belongs, as Kornat told me, "the capital" of the archipelago, 10 houses and a small market, to a drunkard who, when he is on the island, throws stones at tourists. He lets them land only if they offer him a bottle of wine. HISTORY. The 152 islands have been in private ownership since the 17th century, when the inhabitants of Murter withdrew to escape the Turks. They arrived with their stubby fishing boats and brought with them the goats that would serve their livelihood when the sea was too big. In the bays they built small stone houses and waited for better times but the goats and furious fires of the 1800s further desertified the already arid Kornati. After the danger the fugitives and their descendants took the habit of spending a few months on the islands, like our mountaineers on the huts in the summer pastures. It was an extreme life and even today in winter the archipelago, swept by the bora, is depopulated. Impressive are the dry walls that fence the nothing. The reason for these fences is not due to stupidity or greed, but it comes from the calculation of the small amount of grass for the goats: it delimits and protects from the wind a portion of territory that was sufficient to maintain a certain number of animals. Surfing on the water, on board a kayak, is perhaps the best way to fall in love with this stone in the middle of the sea. To understand them we must get lost in the maze of water and try to guess the route by following the shapes of these rocks with strange names. But the kurnatari, accustomed to solitude, are also pranksters. They have learned at their expense the cartographers sent by the Habsburgs of Austria to trace the map of the archipelago. The imperial officials had spent days and days questioning, in Murter, the old fishermen sitting on the dock. For a while those old men had listened to him. Then they began to shoot big. And so, of the 152 islands, some are officially baptized with names of the ancient Croatian etymology, others have suffered a different fate, as Babina Guzica, which means "Ass of the Grandmother" ...
Note
After circunavati Cres, Losinj, Cnidole and Unjie in July for a total of 277 km, in August 2013 I paddled in the mythical crowned islands:
I left Sukosan, 10 km after Zara, at 6 pm, heading towards the Zdrelac strait, which divides Uglian from Pasman. Overnight in a deep bay, a few km from the bridge, the following day, 42 km. of paddle, first with a crossing of 9 km. of open sea towards the bay Talascia, the door of the islands of the moon. The kayak trip was shorter, 150 km, but diving in the seascape has perhaps proved to be more intense. .
Weather inclemente only on Wednesday 14, with difficulty I paddled in the morning against the bora and in the afternoon against the mistral: fortunately in the central channel the wave is low. The day of August was my lucky day: at noon the people of Bolzano invited me for lunch and in the evening a family of sailors offered me dinner on board. But it's not over, pitched the tent in a porch, some very kind Germans got up early in the morning to offer me breakfast. Often the bad guys and the rude ones hide in the NEXT PLACES of the Ferragostan beaches.
Finally I wanted to lengthen the itinerary along Pasman. Party Monday 11, unfortunately already Saturday, August 17 I was at home.
I classify the itinerary as demanding also because I travel alone in Logistics: you leave your car in a guarded parking lot, day and night, near the Sukosan marina, parking costs ONLY 10 KUNE a day, ie 1 euro and 50, at the face of Italy of scratch cards!

The kayak: QAJAQ Wiking Lv, length m.5,27, width 0, 57
The WIKING is a kayak with great load capacity, stable and comfortable to spend many hours on the water. At the same time it is a performing boat with a high directionality and a good cruising speed. Equipped with four lockers and retractable drift, it also offers easy maneuvering and good perception on the water.
The LV version (LOW VOLUME) has a lower load volume than the hd model (high volume) but has the advantage of offering, as almost completely submerged, less grip on the wind. It therefore represents a valid compromise between performance, load capacity. and stability especially in the most demanding sea conditions.
The paddle: Kajner WING, medium size
Both in the recent circumnavigation of Cres and Lošinj and in the kayk trip to the Incoronate I used a carbon wing paddle and I found myself very well: the low weight, less than 800 g, the low paddling style and the thrust, allowed me to increase the daily distance of 8/10 KM. at the same effort, compared to the traditional paddle. The Kajner WING paddle, medium size, has an adjustable angle and I have placed it on 60 degrees to turn the wrist slightly and avoid annoying tendinitis

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