Tugela Falls Overnight via the Chain Ladders – (Royal Natal NP – Drakensberg)

Starting and ending at the Sentinel parking lot, this hike up the Chain Ladders to Tugela falls on top of the great Southern African escarpment must be one of South Africa’s most iconic trails. To arrive at the Sentinel Peak parking lot, one will need to drive into the nature reserve via the Witsieshoek checkpoint. This involves driving through the town of Phuthaditjhaba in the Free State and ascending a long road upward until reaching the checkpoint where a conservation fee is payable at the gate (R70 per person at the time of writing and only cash was accepted). Thereafter the drive up to Witsieshoek resort is straightforward. If you do not have a 4x4, Witsieshoek resort is the furthest you will be able to drive as the road from here on to the parking lot is in terrible condition (and has been since 2003), you may be able to attempt with a high clearance 2x4 if you are feeling brave and conditions are dry. If you choose to leave your car at Witsieshoek you can pay the R150 overnight and conservation fee at their offices and a return trip by 4x4 to and from the parking lot will cost you R300pp (Please note this will likely change over time so check in with the Witsieshoek website or better call Witsieshoek for info and arrange your shuttle as 4x4’s and space is limited). Just note that on your return down the mountain when your hiking party is about 45minutes above the parking lot you can call to have the shuttle sent for you (signal was good, full 4G even with Telkom). An alternative is to hike all the way up to the parking lot from Mahai campsite in Royal Natal NP, this was the standard way up before the road was built in 1967. Once the parking lot is reached you will need to fill out the applicable mountain safety register and perform a checklist to ensure that you have all the necessary requirements (Snow gear in some months etc). Once all the paperwork is done the trail begins heading upward on a well maintain path which is paved with cinderblocks to prevent erosion. After steadily ascending under the “Three witches” peaks below to the left of the towering Sentinel Peak above views across the Free State Drakensberg/Maluti open up and the vistas are vast. If unacclimatised one might notice how thin the air feels as you breathe more rapidly than you might be used to at lower altitudes (this might be the most challenging aspect of this trail). The trail then begins to zig zag upward and a viewpoint sign is reached. Here you can venture to the viewpoint to get your first glimpse of part of the Amphitheater and the Eastern Buttress, as well as Devils Tooth. Be careful at this viewpoint as it is right on a very high cliff. The path then continues upwards and winds right around Sentinel Peak before reaching another steadily rising contour. Following the contour below towering cliffs the “gully” intersection is then reached. The gully is another option for those who opt not to do the Chain Ladders to reach the top of the escarpment. Note that this gully is steep and will require a lot of bouldering and secure footwear. A mountain guide we consulted suggested to rather use the ladders as the gully can be more technical. Skipping the gully follows the path all the way to the narrow gorge that houses the chain ladders. The ladders are far more imposing than any photographs suggest, even though it does not look like it in photographs these ladders are near to vertical for the majority of their ascent and my guess is that the first ladder (the higher of the two) ascends anywhere from 4 to 5 stories or floors, the second ladder about 2 or 3. That being said the ladders are achievable even with heavy backpacks, make sure to have three points of contact with the ladder at all times and secure yourself by placing your arms through the rungs. A good idea would be to bring a climbing carabiner and a rope to secure yourself if you are unsure of your abilities or want to feel more secure, however this isn’t a prerequisite, our group and the majority of others we encountered managed fine without. Once reaching the top of he chain ladders the hard work is done for the day, it is a short climb to the summit cairn over 3000m asl and then a gradual descent all the way down to the Tugela river and on to the falls. When reaching the falls one will probably notice a few other tents there or an open patch just to the North side of the river where the majority of people camp. The old hut is an alternative and so is Crows nest cave (do your research). Here you can set up camp and explore the escarpment be careful of the over 1000m drop off the edge when wandering esp in windy or low light conditions. Be careful when wet or if trying to get a glimpse of the falls, the falls are dry for many months of the year. As for security, over the years there have been reports of incidents involving robbery however mountain and tour guides ensured us that the amphitheater was safe if a few precautions like not being along camping up there are followed and valuables kept safely inside tents etc. These incidents are extremely rare when one considers how many people do this trail and overnight, but it is important to be aware of the risks and mitigate wherever possible. Do not let the risks deter you! Staying over on the escarpment, the sunset and sunrise are both spectacular on the amphitheater cliffs. The next (or same) day the route down follows the same path down, it is straightforward and easy to navigate. Overall, this trail is moderate, the hike is gradual and not technical but the chain ladders and the altitude add some degree of test or difficulty. Although popular and iconic I can highly recommend doing this trail if you are a relatively fit and able hiker, the views, landscape, sunrise and general experience are likely one you will never forget.