Sveti Ilija - the Summit of Vrmac

Vrmac is the mountain that separates the famous Kotor Bay from the Mediterranean Sea - or not? Not exactly, as the Bay of Kotor is a complicated construct, and there is indeed another mountain (of no importance to hikers) with another bay that lies between Vrmac and the Mediterranean.

With Lovcen and its national park towering high above Kotor, all other hiking destinations seem to fade away - but not for those who prefer relative solitude to the mass tourism that befalls the Lovcen area. Sveti Ilija is the summit of Vrmac, and this trail explores the little used western side of the mountain, without missing any of the glorious views across the 'three bays' that define one of the most spectacular sea-to-mountain landscapes in Europe. As so often, the best sights are not to be had from the highest mountains (Lovcen), but from those that provide unobstructed views to the surrounding.

Much of the trail follows 100-year-old military paths or roads. Some of the smaller military paths may be damaged beyond recognition, but the under-footing is generally good.

The trail follows the description of the Rother Hiking Guide (2008 edition). There are some markings along the way, but not throughout. It is easily possible to miss a turn, especially as some of the paths are little used and can be overgrown. This is especially so shortly after way point 3 (bridge), waypoint 5 (Church) and waypoints 7 and 8.

The trail starts in the village of Donji Bogdasici, where space for two or three cars can be found at the church and cemetery.

Once on the ridge, views to all sides open up. It is particularly interesting to follow the movements of the cruise ships below in the Kotor Bay. Even if you are pressed with time, we recommend to take the in-and-out side trip to the summit of Sveti Ilija, as it provides the best views.