Sudan - Sabaloka Gorge

Take a bus from Khartoum heading north and get off as close as possible to the only range of hills to the west (approx. 100 KMs north of the city) in an otherwise flat expanse of scruffy scrubland (16 15 23.47; 32 44 58.34).

Head towards the hills across a sandy, flat scrubland and after about 5 KMs you hit the rocky volcanic hills. You can roam in any of the small wadis or on top across the gently sloping hills west towards the Nile.

Not really a dramatic landscape but great views of the Nile and then a gentle scramble down to the bank. Take care at the water's edge - it's a very quiet place in the middle of the gorge (although there are fishing villages a few KMs either way north or south) and crocs - 'only small', according to the locals - come up on to land to bask in the sun).

Very thirsty, I flagged a couple of fishermen passing by who were heading north to sell their fish. They offered to take me to the village a few KM s away and said I could hitch a lift to the main road or even Khartoum from there so I decided to go with them. Unluckily, there was a plain clothes 'policeman' (I think) near where the boat moored and he demanded my 'paper' to show I had 'permission' to be there (Sudan issues permits to say where you are allowed to visit in the country). I guess they were waiting for some bucksheesh but in the end they took my details, called the place I was staying to check who I was, said I'd be hearing from them, and put me on a bus bound for Khartoum (it's a popular picnic spot for weekenders from Khartoum).

Despite their enormous hospitality, things like that can be a nuisance in Sudan. They like to tell how you friendly they are (and they are) and how safe their country is, but then they say they monitor your travels 'for your own protection' (?!).