Sheper - Permet (Zagoria Valley)

The Albanian part of the Zagoria Valley is encircled by three mountain ranges and only accesible from the Libohova road through the Suha river gorge or by crossing the border from Greece near Sopik.
Due to it's remote location it's unknown to most visitors and conserved much of it's natural charm. The surrounding mountains offer plenty of walking options and it's probably just the lack of infrastructure that prevents it's rise as a major hiking destination.
Only in Polican you'll find a restaurant and very basic guest house accomodation (300 lek per night), located right at the village square.

6km on the road from Polican and just before the entrance to Sheper the trail across the pass to Permet starts. Next to the road you'll find the entrance to the canyon, I started walking from here but had to walk up to the rim soon as the path inside was increasingly blocked by undergrowth. An alternative trail head is marked to avoid the thicket.

The trail cuts a travel distance from over 100km on the road down to only 13km across the pass. It is because of this that the ancient trail is still frequently used by locals - you'll surely pass on or two donkey riders on your way.

Initially the walk leads you on the left above the canyon but you'll cross the dry riverbed shortly afterwards to continue the hike on different levels on the right hand side. Don't forget to turn around to enjoy the views of the Mali i Cajupit range that limits the valley to the west from time to time.
In the morning you would walk in the shade and during my walk in spring I enjoyed the buzzing sound of insects and strong smell of the blossoms a lot.

At some point the canyon broadens into a wide valley which is home to a couple of shepherds in summer time. Next to the first hut a pipe at the reservoir allows you to replenish your water supply. Keep walking left of the riverbed at an easy gradient towards the pass, be prepared for the last steep ascend (nearly 100m elevation) right before reaching the highest point.
Here you should take a break to enjoy the views of Permet, the forrests of Bredhi i Hotoves behind the town to the left and on the right the entrance to Lengarica Canyon where the hot springs of Benje are located.

Prepare for a gravely steep descend prone to slips but at least from time to time in the shade once you passed the tree level. Much further below scrub takes over and the trail leads next to animal enclosures and meadows down across a ridge to a little building (church). Turn left and follow the cattle trail, soon the first houses and sheds of the beautiful village of Leusa come in sight.

If you're interested in exploring the well preserved village, which is free of modern buildings, don't turn right where the dirt road starts but keep walking straight. Once you're done there's a gate opposite that leads to the very beautiful church - you defintely don't want to miss the wall paintings at the cloister!

The trail finishes at Permet's city center, minibuses leave from here. There's no direct connection to Gjirokaster though, many furgons (like the one to Berat) can drop you at the bridge near Tepelena where you can wave down one of the many passing unofficial taxis and buses.