Nanga Parbat trekking 2 (Mazeno pass Base Camp, High Camp, Mazeno pass, Loiba, Ser)
near Zangot, Gilgit-Baltistan (Pakistan)
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Trail photos
From Base Camp to the High Camp (4814 m) ascend in 3 hours remaining on the left side of the valley to a stony plateau behind the lateral moraine, melting snow water.
To get up to the pass, we start at 4.45. Climb along debris and patches of frozen snow, but passable transit. Last part on fairly steep debris. Before 8:00 am we are in step (mt 5349), with beautiful weather. Descent towards the Diamir valley difficult due to debris on live ice and the final rocky rise of about thirty meters. We descend along a fixed rope, while the staff draws the ice with an ice ax. Given the flaw that covers the ice, the crampons are unusable. Even the final jump we do it with the rope. The difficulties for the bearers with the load are even greater (at the end of the day 5 bearers, really tried, decide not to continue and return home). At 1.30 pm we are on the flat part of the glacier.
We continue going down first on the debris and the snow that covers the glacier (here absolutely flat) and then along the pastures and the bed of the stream to the point suitable for the field (Michael Bik campsite) arrival at 18.30. In the long (and boring) descent, despite the variable weather with some short rain shower, beautiful view of the Diamir Peak. you reach a meadow where you can camp (mt 3983) after 13 hours from the start!
From the Upper Loiba camp, we descend along the left side of the Mazeno valley. The donkeys with the material make a longer and longer route, we descend instead to cross the Mazeno and Diamir rivers (shorter route and lower gradient). On the two rivers the bridges are gone (there were never?) And, in 4 hours, our Staff, recovering logs and boards, throwing himself into the river and jumping, builds two bridges that allow us to cross. One hour walk later we reach Ser (mt 2746) for the field. Here there is one of the schools built by Messner after the return in 1970 from the Diamir side ..
Note: trekking can only be done with guide and bearers in tow. There are no tourist support points. Required police permit. We have used the NangaParbatAdventure.com agency with great satisfaction. The loaded tracking can not be used as a route for inaccuracy due to GPS reception difficulties in narrow valleys and canyon effect.
To get up to the pass, we start at 4.45. Climb along debris and patches of frozen snow, but passable transit. Last part on fairly steep debris. Before 8:00 am we are in step (mt 5349), with beautiful weather. Descent towards the Diamir valley difficult due to debris on live ice and the final rocky rise of about thirty meters. We descend along a fixed rope, while the staff draws the ice with an ice ax. Given the flaw that covers the ice, the crampons are unusable. Even the final jump we do it with the rope. The difficulties for the bearers with the load are even greater (at the end of the day 5 bearers, really tried, decide not to continue and return home). At 1.30 pm we are on the flat part of the glacier.
We continue going down first on the debris and the snow that covers the glacier (here absolutely flat) and then along the pastures and the bed of the stream to the point suitable for the field (Michael Bik campsite) arrival at 18.30. In the long (and boring) descent, despite the variable weather with some short rain shower, beautiful view of the Diamir Peak. you reach a meadow where you can camp (mt 3983) after 13 hours from the start!
From the Upper Loiba camp, we descend along the left side of the Mazeno valley. The donkeys with the material make a longer and longer route, we descend instead to cross the Mazeno and Diamir rivers (shorter route and lower gradient). On the two rivers the bridges are gone (there were never?) And, in 4 hours, our Staff, recovering logs and boards, throwing himself into the river and jumping, builds two bridges that allow us to cross. One hour walk later we reach Ser (mt 2746) for the field. Here there is one of the schools built by Messner after the return in 1970 from the Diamir side ..
Note: trekking can only be done with guide and bearers in tow. There are no tourist support points. Required police permit. We have used the NangaParbatAdventure.com agency with great satisfaction. The loaded tracking can not be used as a route for inaccuracy due to GPS reception difficulties in narrow valleys and canyon effect.
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