Maja e Malit Maranaj (Mount Maranaj)

Rising some 1,500m just a few short km from the town of Shkoder, the eponymous peak of the Maranaj Park offers superb views of the tributary system surrounding the city of Shkoder and surrounding villages. The confluence of the great Drin river, flowing from Lake Komani, with the Kir can be seen shortly before the Drin joins the outflow from Lake Shkoder to form the wide Buna (Serbian: Bojana) River. The Lumi Buna then winds along the Albanian-Montenegrin border for a scant 41 km before emptying into the glittering Adriatic Sea. Even the small island at the estuary of the Buna can be seen near Velipoje from the top of Maja Maranaj.

Arriving: Drive or hitchhike to Domen, some 20 minutes by car from Shkoder off the old road to Thethi. The GPS track begins in a flat area at the beginning of the village where you can park, though double check with any locals you see to be courteous.

There are two principal parts to this hike, the first is along the local farmer's trail that leads deeper into Maranaj Park, and the second is off-trail directly up the side eastern side of Maranaj. There is a little bit of bushwhacking, but not much. We attempted to record the path in the way that involved the least amount of bushwhacking. This second part can be steep with grades of more than 40% and loose shale rock, a steady head and good balance is required.

From Domen walk along the dirt road about 2.7km to the start of a local farmer's trail that is flat and easily walked. Follow this trail several km along the side of the ridge until the second stream crossing (cutting through several terraces in the process). Here the trail ends in the stream and the ascent begins completely off-path. The ascent is fairly straightforward, aim uphill in the easiest direction. Along with the aforementioned bushwhacking and loose rock on steep slopes, the GPS route includes some scrambling over large boulders.

Enjoy the gorgeous views from the top. When the track was recorded, it was early Spring, so the summit and North face were still snow covered. We elected to return the same way we came (as the track shows), but it might be possible to return along the south western ridge or even down the North face in the Summer.

This is a long day hike, so it is best to start early and come prepared with food and water. You can refill water from the second mountain stream right before the ascent and after the descent. Finally, best bring a flashlight, as for us the last 4km were hiked (on the flat farmer's trail) in the dark by moonlight.