Ladder of Kotor

For a detailed account of this hike and more photos feel free to visit my post: https://thewalkingwanderess.com/2018/07/12/hiking-in-kotor-through-the-secret-window/

My hike begins in Old Town Kotor at one of the many flights of stairs leading up, up above the town and towards the castle of San Giovanni. I take the passage that is literally at my doorstep (no entrance fees for me!) A series of stone steps switchback up the side of the cliff along the fortress wall with a constant view of the sparkling bay to the south. This is the most traveled path in Kotor, drawing tons of visitors to the fortifications sitting high above the town. Because of this popularity, an early start is always a good way to avoid a crowded trail!

After about twenty minutes of climbing I see a landing to the left of the steps just below the main lookout. There are the crumbling remains of another section of the wall and several lookout windows. Towards the back of the landing there is a totally inconspicuous looking window that doesn’t look like it leads anywhere, and I peer through.

The opening is big enough to fit my body through and on the other side I see a rocky path marked with a white and red stripe. I crawl through the window and lower myself down. Now I can see it – the “ladder” – a clear zigzag footpath is etched into the side of the mountain. The path is a continuous climb and very quickly I find myself looking down on the fortress. I see that a giant tour ship has docked in the bay and I know that the streets of Kotor will soon be bustling with people. I’m happy to be up here away from the crowds and selfie sticks.

I am always torn on the subject of sharing or hiding these gorgeous destinations that are still considered “off the beaten path”. I want others to have the opportunity and knowledge to explore and discover these places, but at the same time I am afraid that excessive tourism will destroy what makes them beautiful. For now, I feel comfortable with providing information to folks who are interested in a self-guided style of travel – and to those who (I hope!) care about preserving the beauty of the areas in which they are setting foot.

I reach a grassy plateau about halfway up the switchbacks and chat with two other American hikers who are in Montenegro for their one week vacation. This is a good spot to stop and admire your efforts by gazing across the glassy blue of the bay.

I continue up on the wide and gradually graded path to a notch in the mountain above some big power lines, stepping aside for a passing herd of goats with their tinkling bells. The trail drops down on the other side of the notch and then enters a forest where it starts going up again, more steeply this time. There are a few large rocks to navigate but nothing too technical, and soon I am out in the open again. The view of the bay is now obscured by the mountain behind me and the trail evens out a little bit. Here I meet up with a paved road where I am surprised to find a zip-line attraction and a parking lot. I don’t think many people climb this far up from the Old Town because I get some curious looks from the people who drove up to this spot.

I check the map and walk north along this road for a bit, passing a restaurant and a guesthouse in the town of Krstac. I ask if I can fill my water up at one of the restaurants here and they tell me I have to pay for a bottle (no way!) I walk a little bit further and fill up outside of another cafe for free. I split off from the main road to the left and pass by a construction site where there are several men working. “New hotel.” They say when I inquire about the buildings. I have a feeling that this area, which is considered more remote than other parts of Kotor, will soon be just as crowded as the fortress walls. I hope that the park is able to retain its natural beauty and tranquil feel when it becomes more accessible to tourists.

I ask the men which way the trail goes and they point me towards a rocky path that leads away from the site. I see a trail marking (now a red and white circle) and continue on. There is a prominent hill that looks like it may provide spectacular views from the top, so naturally I attempt to find a way up. There is no real path and I keep falling into gaps in the large rocks which are obscured by sharp brush. I stop a third of the way up and accept my consolation prize, scratched shins and a view of the sea beyond the bay.

Returning to the path, I keep north until I reach a really official looking sign with eight different places marked on it. I’m not sure how accurate the labels are, but I head in the general direction of Velji Zalazi, a hamlet that I see marked on my map. I know that I want to start going west so that I can get down to the bay again. The hamlet is totally deserted and quiet except for the soft music of cow bells in the pasture below. The village is complete with an overgrown graveyard, and old church, and several remains of houses. I explore a few and find that many of the homes still have some of their original belongings. A coat, a teapot, pots and pans, an empty picture frame – it almost looks like these places were abandoned in a hurry, as if their inhabitants didn’t have time to take everything with them when they left. There is a dark chest sitting alone on a table in the bedroom.

I leave this place and start heading south on the rocky path. I am high above the bay which is now on my left as I descend. I seriously can’t get enough of this view! There is a collection of several red-roofed buildings below and, according to my map, is probably where this trail ends. Here the footpath is well marked until I reach a steep slope where the trail seemingly disappears completely. Scanning the loose shale for a sign I see one rock with a red and white circle. I slide and stumble down the rocks wishing I had my hiking poles to support myself. It’s a rough 30 minutes of trail down the valley and I am relieved when I finally find solid footing just above Dobrota where more hotels are being built. From here I walk the paved road back to the Old Town where I began.

A note on the descent: Be aware that last part of the descent is quite difficult and rocky. When I hiked this part of the trail last year it looked like very few people (if any) had taken this path in a long time. There is quite a bit of brush growing over the trail, and the red and white markers are few and far between.