KGL 5: Satsar to Gangbal Lake

KGL 5: Satsar to Gangbal Lake

Mild ascent followed by gradual descent followed by a long steep ascent and long steep descent followed by gradual up and down walk. The day's trek goes up and down replicating the trek as a whole which mostly goes up and down.

Trek up half an hour out of camp, to reach the biggest Satsar lake. The terrain is bouldery and it is more of a boulder hopping exercise than anything else. The biggest of the Satsar lakes is also the last in the sequence. After the last lake, the trail starts to descend. Continue for half an hour on the main trail until you see the forest line ahead to your left. The right side is a ridge line, about 1,000 ft higher. It is time to gain height again.

The altitude at the base of the climb is 11,800 feet. Take the zig-zag pony track to climb up to the top of the first ridge. A 45-minute trek with limited breaks will see you on top of the first ridge. Once on top, you see two more ridges to climb.

The trail from the base to top is barren and rocky. Looking behind at the opposite mountains, spot the Gujjar huts amidst the tall pines. You will not fail to notice the bareness of the mountains here and the greenery on the other side.

A total of two-hour ascent brings you to the top of the 3rd ridge. The altimeter reads about 13,400 feet. The best part, however, is the surprise view you get from the ridge top. The two lakes lie next to one another.

A stream takes water from the higher lake to the lower. If you look keenly, two more blue lakes are seen, one on either side at a distance. The smaller lakes are nameless but the biggest amongst the set is the Gangabal. Its companion is the Nandkol. You now know your destination. It is 1,400 feet below you.

The route descends a bit more and ascends again to the lake. Take pictures of both sides and brace yourself for a steep stony descent. Your destination is either the Gangabal or the Nandkol. The ascent is dry but on the descent, you cross a stream mid way. Fill your empty bottles with cold water and move on. An hour and a half steep descent brings you to green meadows again.

The meadow is not too wide but stretches from your right to left. A kilometre down left, you see the tree line again. Once at the base, the lake shore is still a good distance. The destination is seen but seems far away.

A quick climb, a shorter descent and a stream crossing over a wooden log bridge brings you to the shores of Nandkol lake. Notice that this lake is not as pristine as the other lakes you saw on the trek. Remnants of camping are all around. A lot of people trek up from Naranag to Gangabal and go back as a weekend outing. You will wish they spared time and thought to clean up the mess they created by these beautiful lakes.

The Nandkol lake lies at the base of the Harmukh peak. The Harmukh glacier hangs on the sides of the rocky edges of the mountain. Both the Gangabal and Nandkol are famous for trout fishing. The Gangabal lake is about 20 minutes away from Nandkol. A fiery stream flows on the right of the two lakes connecting them.

The stream has to be crossed to go to Gangabal from Nandkol. Do not try to cross the stream at the lower levels but go all the way to the bank of Gangabal and on the right you find a good man-made bridge laid out. Gangabal is huge. A parikrama of either of the lakes will easily take an hour.