Jergez to Aksu with glacier (Karakol region)

Fantastic views on a 3 day 2 nights hike. Glacier, lakes, mountains. Easy access.

I've taken a marshrutka for Boz Uchuk and left it on the road, at Jergez. It was 12:20 of day 1 (July 14th 2018).

At the beginning, it's a dirt track and easy to follow. There was a lot of mud, because of rain.

Up the valley, already on the trail, you'll need to cross the river. There are two fallen trees you can use as a bridge. Very nice.

Once at the other side of the river, there are blue markings and the trail is easy to follow.

I've done about 20 km and arrived at the place right before the climb for the pass would begin. It was all clouds and I couldn't see a thing.

This first day, I've seen two horsemen, but no other trekkers.

The next morning, sun everywhere and the view was amazing! I packed slowly and got started at about 9:30. I needed to cross a few streams. They aren't deep, but from past experience, I knew the current was really strong. It can easily make you fall.

I was walking upriver to try to find a place where to cross by jumping from stone to stone, when a horseman appeared. He was coming down from the pass. He offered me to cross on horse and took me to the other side.

I started my ascent to the lakes and pass. I could see that, higher, there were more stones in the river and it'd probably been possible to cross without wetting my feet, but from far I can't be sure. In the worst case scenario, if you have to cross with your feet in the water, better take off your shoes, because it's too cold to have your feet wet when going to the pass.

As I've walked up, there were river views and waterfalls. Very nice.

Another horseman arrived, with a friendly dog (for a change). He tried to make conversation and we've exchanged a few words. After that, he stayed close, showing me the way. That's completely unnecessary and I kept a distance. I had been told at Destination Karakol (tour and information office in Karakol), that the shepards drink a lot and may try to touch women. Mind you, I was a woman alone. It may not be the case if you're not alone. This man, when we shook hands, tried to embrace me. I've pushed him away, firmly, but not aggressively.

Later on, it rained really hard, with a bit of hail. But only for about 15 min. The horseman, who had spotted some of his horses by binocular, had gone after them. He came back when I was putting a plastic to cover my gear and gave me flowers. I've accepted, then left to continue my walk. He went his way (the opposite of mine).

I've spotted a campsite of a large group by the lakes, but didn't go there.

The climb to the 3671m pass was easy, comparing to others I've done in the region. It's just walking up on a trail, easy to follow, though hard on the legs and lungs at this altitude and incline.

By the time I've got up, the sky was clear and the views were nothing short of spectacular.

After a couple (euphemism) of videos and photos, and a picnic of chocolates and a local specialty (it looks like roasted beans, but I'm not sure that's what it is), I've started to walk down the other side.

After a while, I've seen sheep and goats. Where there are sheepskin and goats, there are dogs. So, ive proceeded carefully, trying to avoid to pass in its midst. I've spotted the horseman. That's good, because when the dogs started to run at me, he called them.

We've exchanged a few words. And I've left.

I've spotted a magnificent mountain to my left, with it's glacier. I've walked on the side of the mountains, direction the glacier. There was no track, but it was doable with trekking poles. Otherwise, you can walk down to this high valley and from there to the glacier.

After about 4 km, I was right "under" the ice shelf. There were many waterfalls and the rumbling of the glacier. Fantastic! The terrain of the last km is difficult, but worth the effort. Be careful, because everything moves.

After enjoying the place for some time, I've started the walk back to the "trail". The glacier had been a side trip of 8 km return.

I've walked really fast down, because I wanted to sleep down at the Aksu Aalampa (spelling?) valley. I didn't want to make this a 3 nights/4 days trek, therefore, I disnt want to have to walk more than, say 20 km on the next (final) day. I had been told that the last marshrutka from Aksu to Karakol leaves at about 18h.

On my way down, some very fierce dogs tried to get me, but the were tethered to trees. Luckily these sheppards are conscious about their dogs. I've seen them taking a look at the origin of the noise and waved a grateful "hi".

I've found a place to camp close to the bridge that crosses the river for the ones who want to go to the next pass/valley (if you do the next pass, you'll end up at the place of the hotsprings, Altyn Arashan).

I had considered doing this pass, just up and down back to the Aksu Aalampa valley, just for the views. That'd have added another night to the trek, or about 7 km. But I had already changed my mind and set for only 2 nights, because of the weather. Though I had sun a lot, the wind was really pushing the windchill down. It was cold and I couldn't bear the idea of going high again.

I've slept close to the river, not far from the bridge. It was just a place of necessity, not somewhere I'd have chosen. But I was exhausted and it was about 21:00, when sunset had been at about 20:20.

The problem is that these valleys have a lot of cows, horses, etc, and the soil is full of their droppings. One must be careful to pick a relatively clean place in this "minefield". Lol

The next morning, cloudy skies and cold wind. Any temptation to go up the next pass for the view quickly disappeared.

I've walked down the valley all the way to Aksu, where to catch a marshrutka to Karakol. It was about 20 km. I've finished the trek on day 3, at about 15h30.

Overall, the trek was easy, in the sense that most times, there were actual trails. On other one, I've barely seen a proper trail. I'm putting moderate, because it was 20 km per day, because of the climb up to the ice shelf (glacier), because of the walking on hill side, and the crossing of rivers/torrents.

I've done the gpx by hand, because the real one is messy, full of noise. In any case, you can follow trails on the ground and use my gpx to help you know if you're at the right spot. Mainly to find the tree-bridge at the beginning.

Enjoy!