Ilhabela: Bonete to Castelhanos, best description, July 2023

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Photo ofIlhabela: Bonete to Castelhanos, best description, July 2023

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otesourodosombrio

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Trail stats

Distance: 9.03 mi
Elevation gain: 2,631 ft
Technical difficulty: Difficult
Elevation loss: 2,516 ft
Max elevation: 976 ft
TrailRank: 72 5
Min elevation: -48 ft
Trail type: One Way

Moving time: 5 hours 8 minutes
Time: 9 hours 36 minutes
Coordinates: 2627
Uploaded: July 14, 2023
Recorded: July 2023

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near Paranabi, São Paulo (Brazil)

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Trail photos

Itinerary description

Sure, you have to be in decent shape to take on this trail. Just to give you a sense of perspective, I'm a 51-year-old guy who's pretty sedentary. About two months before the hike, I started running about 2 kilometers a day to prepare. Plus, I did an 8 km and an 18 km walk around the city a week before the hike – nothing more than that. It's worth mentioning that we did the Borrifos - Bonete trail the day prior, which is quite a physical challenge at 11.5 km.

The Bonete - Castelhanos trail is really a tale of two parts:

PART 1 - The first stretch runs from Bonete to Indaiauba beach. This part isn't too bad. We set off from ‘Pousada da Rosa’ (Rosa’s Inn) in Bonete at 4:20 am, under the cover of thick, perfect darkness – there's no public lighting at night in Bonete. The only light was from a distant boat. The starless sky hinted at an incoming cyclone from the south. Despite this, I’d still recommend starting the trail at night.

When you reach Enchovas beach, you'll pass through a property with a fisherman's house facing a pebble beach. Cross this property to reach the river. The trail can be a bit hard to pick up from Enchovas - you'll need to cross the river to get back on track. I did this in the winter when the river was calm and ankle-deep. But be careful, in the summer the current might be stronger. Be smart and cross on your hands and feet, don't try to be a hero leaping from rock to rock. A slip could be fatal.

Reaching Indaiatuba, you'll come upon a cobblestone path built by private individuals (see Photo 1). You'll pass a large house (see Photo 2) on your way to the beach.

PART 2 - The second leg of the trail runs from Indaiauba to Castelhanos Bay. This part is more of a mental challenge compared to the Borrifos - Bonete trail, mainly because of the fear of getting lost in the thick forest, particularly when the sound of the sea fades away about 1 km from the beach. From that point on, it's all about trusting your guide or GPS. The terrain is hilly and the trail weaves so much that you'd be lost without guidance.

The trail starts with a beautiful stone portal (see Photo 11), in front of the beach, leading up a cobbled path. The toughest stretch is from Indaiauba beach to the midpoint to Praia Vermelha, about 4 kilometers or 2.5 miles uphill through dense forest. The trail disappears a few times, misleading paths possibly opened by hunters or hikers with machetes can confuse you. Fallen trees sometimes obliterate the trail. Stay calm, leave some people at the last known location of the trail while others scout for its continuation. Those left behind should have a whistle to signal if they lose sight of the scouts. We had an experienced guide who always found the trail quickly, so we didn't need the whistle. From the middle of the dense forest to Castelhanos, during descent (approximately from the point in Photo 28), the trail becomes well marked.

I'm no expert with trail GPS devices, but it might be possible to do this hike without guides if you have a reliable one. Remember, the forest is thick and the GPS signal can be patchy, and it can easily rain, soaking your equipment. Battery life is another consideration if you get lost. Above all, stay calm and inspire confidence in your fellow hikers.

We crossed several small rivers along the trail. As it was winter with little rain, filling our water bottles was a bit of a struggle. We used chlorine to purify the water and reduce the weight we carried. I brought two half-liter Gatorade bottles. Chlorine takes 30 minutes to sterilize the water, so I always drank from the bottle that had been filled the longest.

A walking stick was incredibly useful for conserving energy. You may think you don’t need it when you’re young, but it's best to conserve your strength for unexpected situations on long and risky trails like this. You could get hurt, lost, or even need to carry someone.

I wore light sneakers with low grip, and I don't regret it. If you step in water, a boot takes forever to dry and it's heavy on your feet. Sneakers don’t offer as much grip or puncture protection as boots, but they're much easier on your feet. To protect against snake bites, we wore ‘pernera’ (shin guards).

Waypoints

Foto 1 - Indaiauba - stone path made by private individuals

Foto 2 - One of the beautiful houses in the middle of the forest in Indaiauba

One of the beautiful houses in the middle of the forest in Indaiauba. Some with helipad.

Foto 3 - Indaiauba - Hic Sunt Dracones' (Here be dragons)

It should say 'Hic Sunt Dracones' (Here be dragons) to indicate that from here the trail enters an area unknown to most mortals. There is danger ahead, all care is little.

Foto 4 - Indaiauba - Bridge on the way to Indaiauba beach

Bridge on the way to Indaiauba beach, everything is quiet for now

Praia 5 - Indaiauba - View of Indaiauba beach

View of Indaiauba Beach, photo taken from the trail

Foto 6 - Small waterfall, bathing place for fairies and nymphs

My brother and I at the small waterfall very close to the beach of Indaiauba, certainly the millionaires who live in the mansion next door come to bathe here on hot summer days and nights. Bathing place for fairies and nymphs

Foto 7 - Indaiauba - apparently we were the only tourists in the area

Cameras everywhere. Soon a friendly man appeared driving an ATV, subtly conveying the message that we were being watched. The place was deserted due to the cyclone coming in from the south of the country. The other time I was there in 2018, the beach was full of tourists coming by boat. This time the sea was rough and there were no boats nearby, apparently we were the only tourists in the area.

Praia 8 - Indaiauba - Indaiauba beach

Panorama 9 - Indaiauba - a gift from almighty nature

For those who humbly submit to Ilhabela's whims, she sometimes presents them with her treats.

Praia 10 - Indaiauba - Indaiauba beach, close up

Foto 11 - Portal de Indaiauba, entrance to the trail to Castelhanos (Hic Sunt Dracones)

Portal de Indaiauba, entrance to the trail to Castelhanos, fear starts here (Hic Sunt Dracones)

Foto 12 - Stop after a steep climb, steep but short

Stop after a steep climb, steep but short. If you've done the Borrifos-Bonete trail, don't worry that you'll do this trail without major physical challenges.

Foto 13 - Symbol of the 'Caminho da Mata Atlântica' 3 thousand kilometers path

Symbol of the 'Caminho da Mata Atlântica', a path of 3 thousand kilometers (WWF-Brazil)

Foto 14 - Trail image taken in motion

Trail image taken in motion

Foto 15 - I marked the point where the ascent ends

I marked the point where the ascent ends, we enter a flat but short part of the trail. At the beginning of the climb, an apparent fork appeared, we stayed left.

Foto 16 - point where the ascent ends

I marked the point where the ascent ends, we enter a flat but short part of the trail. At the beginning of the climb, an apparent fork appeared, we stayed left.

Foto 17 - the most critical point

This was the most critical point. The trail disappeared. We looked for a few minutes to continue the trail without success. I saw this tree marked with a blue ribbon that circled its trunk, close by we found the continuation of the main trail.

Foto 18 - tree marked with a blue ribbon - the continuation of the main trail

Foto 19 - several small rivers along the way

We found several small rivers along the way. As it is winter and there is little rain, they had little water, it was more difficult to refill the water bottles. We always put purifying chlorine in the water. I took two half-liter bottles of Gatorade with me. Chlorine takes 30 minutes to take effect in the water (kill microorganisms), so I always drank the water from the bottle that had been refilled the longest ago.