Fish River Canyon Day 5 – (Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park – Namibia)

Day 5 of the Fish River Canyon Hike was group 251’s last easy stroll to the long-awaited oasis of Ai-Ais. After reflecting many of us realized that we could have pushed on and completed the trail in 4 days, but this would have taken so much away from the experience. Taking one’s time and connecting with one’s surroundings is such an important part of hiking in general. Personally, I leave the time trials to the Red Bull sponsored pros and take it slow absorbing as much as possible, getting the most enjoyment out of the experience. It is for this reason why I would do the canyon differently next time and take it even slower in some of my favorite sections, if there is sufficient water in the river this will be a possibility. In late Aug of 2023 the drought meant pushing a few extra kilometers most days to have access to adequate water, this shortened Day 5 to nothing more than a simple stroll into Ai-Ais. The group walked at a relaxed pace and used the morning to reflect and have a last chat. Tired legs, blistered feet but the pressure was certainly off and there were many mixed emotions with the trail coming to an end. After sleeping in somewhat, about as much as the circadian rhythm would allow, the group got moving from the Kraal campsite at about 07:20. The motivation of cold beer and the warm waters of Ai-Ais’ hot spring may have had something to with this. About half an hour after passing the Bikini beach and Stinkwater the 80km sign was reached, a good spot for a group photograph. With all the shortcuts and cutting bends the actual kilometers along the river had added up quickly. Nevertheless, even getting this far was an accomplishment for the group, for many it was their first overnight or multiday hike, they pushed through drought, soaring temperatures and pain like champions. Any completion of the Fish River Canyon is an accomplishment, and you can give yourself a pat on the back for seeing it through. I’d go as far as to say that most of the general population are not privileged enough to be able to endure the mental and physical demands that the Fish will dish out. A personal out of sorts realization I had in the last few kilometers of the canyon was that my parents would never be able to experience the grandeur of walking in the canyon as I have. With all their passion and extensive travels on the African continent, an experience like this is just physically out of their reach, to me this highlighted the importance of keeping physically active and capitalizing on opportunities like the Fish before the realities of age prohibit one to do so. I further reflected on how a knee injury in training just two weeks before the date almost cost me the trip. I decided to go for it anyway and deal with the consequences even though many would have and did advise otherwise. It turned out to be the right decision, the injury was barely noticeable and I’m extremely grateful that I didn’t have to miss out. I further reflected on the mental aspects, how I and many in the group had to endure at times. Many lessons in mental toughness were learnt and the group as a whole was now far wiser in terms of understanding what to pack and what to let go of. The mental endurance gained from hard training and conditioning can prepare the mind and allow one to enjoy their surroundings even though the body is under pressure. I always maintain that if one is physically and mentally prepared the hardships of the trail are enjoyed far more. It’s probably for this reason that many do not see the appeal in trails or hiking, many novices expect enjoyment and ease from the get go but fail to realize that its only through the hard work, experience and preparation that the enjoyment is later developed. If the Fish River Canyon is attempted unprepared and unconditioned expect a good amount of suffering and mental endurance. If well prepared and in adequate physical condition your mind will most likely block out the physical pressures and focus on conversation, your own thoughts and the spectacular surroundings. Either way the experience will be looked back on with fond memories and a sense of achievement. Even with all the hardships and unfavorable conditions I still wouldn’t change a single thing about group 251’s experience. For many of us it was an experience we will carry with us for the rest of our days. From the 80-kilometer sign it was a straightforward cutting of the river’s last noticeable semicircular bend. A few quick stops for snacks later and signs of civilization began to appear more frequently. Some large rock cairns, a few painted arrows, an “Amper Daar” or “Almost There” sign, and “Cold Beer” painted on a rock signaled that we were getting extremely close. Soon the Ai-Ais weir was reached and just beyond it the edge of the camp site. We took a few last photos as a group and made our last strides into Ai-Ais with the sound of the infamous bell ringing loudly. We hung our bags on the hooks, rang the bell as a group and proceeded to indulge in multiple cold beers and freshly prepared food from the restaurant. What a luxury! The clock had just passed 11 am and the rest of the day was filled with relaxing in the resorts hot spring pools, frequenting the bar, and socializing. The evening included the mandatory fines meeting, and it was a great laugh as the fines were handed out for all kinds of humorous mistakes and laughable moments which happened on trail. After the meeting we all said our reluctant goodbyes as many had to get moving early the next morning, and seemingly just like that, the Fish River Canyon Hike was done and everyone went their separate ways, but it will always be so much more! This wasn’t just a trail or a hike, it’s a life experience that pays immense dividends long after it is all said and done. I’m eternally grateful for the amazing individuals in group 251 of 2023, a big thanks to each and every one of you. Until the next one!