Fish River Canyon Day 2 – (Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park – Namibia)

Day 2 on the Fish River was a tough hike for group #251 of 2023. In general Day 2 after the 7km mark starts off slow moving through some of the largest boulder fields that the canyon has to offer. The need to push on for a few extra kilometers to find quality water added far more kilometers than we all initially wished to cover. A long distance over rough terrain is challenging enough, then throw in a maximum daytime temperature of 38 Degrees Celsius (100 Fahrenheit) and it will push some to their limit. The day started early with a 05:30 wake up and some packing in darkness. At about 06:30 the light was sufficient to get moving but the group was still in shock from the early wakeup and packing took longer than expected so it was only at 07:00 that we officially departed. Another shock was a brown house snake wedged in a crack in a boulder under a backpack. After navigating a few large boulder fields and sandy sections the call for breakfast was announced at around 08:00 next to the large pool at Wild Fig Bend, the end goal for Day 1 which we opted not to reach a day ago (Wild Fig Bend Pool was 2km into Day 2, 9km total on the river). The water here was plentiful and of fair quality, so the group filled their reserves. After Wild Fig Bend the river follows a narrow straight corridor through the high canyon walls, truly spectacular and one doesn’t seem to care much about the long expanse of sand. In this section the 10km sign appears, its painted on a rock quite high up on the right-hand side (North) if you are heading in the correct direction. If moving through the area early it might be in the shade, you may have to search a bit to locate it. It was at this point that large Leopard spoor appeared all over the sand, distinct for long stretches at a time. Unfortunately, no sighting even though we optimistically scanned the canyon walls and crevices thoroughly, unlucky but also not likely either. After covering this section on sand and small boulders a large rock Cairn is reached as one turns the corner, this is aptly labeled “pile of rocks” on the Slingsby map at about 11.6km from kilometer 0 on the river. This is the first section of hard, open and compact gravel on the trail, and it is such a welcomed sight. You would never think that you could ever be so excited to see some hard gravel but at this point after seemly endless sections of sand and boulders it’s a huge relief and such a welcomed change. This section gave the group some prime hiking terrain to cover some distance in a short span of time. On this section you have open vistas to the Monument Mountains and Baboon Castle Rock straight ahead of you. Unfortunately, the gravel didn’t last forever and soon it was back to river rocks, sand and the odd boulder section when passing the Walls of Jericho and the Granite Slab lunch spot. It should be noted that the slow-moving large boulder fields seem to clear somewhat after kilometer 9 (Wild Fig Bend), that’s not to say that they disappear entirely but they become shorter in duration and less severe or technical, a welcomed milestone when your mind is wondering how you will ever cover 70+ km in those conditions. It is from this point you will proceed to cross the 14km mark and then the sign for the first emergency exit appears painted on a rock. Our group gazed up at it and figured we would rather just complete the canyon than have to find a way up that mountain in the event of an emergency. Anyone with a satellite phone would surely call for airlift even though it might put them into debt to the tune of few month’s salary. If taken the emergency exit seems to have some painted arrows showing the way up although the path isn’t very distinct from below. From about 349m above sea level it heads north up a ravine before turning east and topping out at the Swaelbron View Site at 837m above sea level. That’s a climb of 488 vertical meters, more than the 460 odd meter descent down into the canyon taken a day before. Rangers and visitors to the Transfrontier Park frequent the Swaelbrond View Sight on patrol so it wouldn’t be long until someone who braves this exit route is picked up. After turning a bend and nearing the 16km mark along the river Palm Sulphur Springs is reached. In my personal opinion this place, perhaps with the exception of cold beers and cokes available at Pink Palace on Day 4 was the absolute highlight of the Fish River Canyon Trail. It’s a 56/57 Degree Celsius natural hot spring that flows out of a ravine surrounded by palm trees that were supposedly planted by German soldiers in what was then German South West Africa. The pool below was large and cool during the 2023 drought year. The spring itself is too hot to touch, you need to find a sweet spot where the cool water from the main pool mixes with the hot water flowing from the spring. Here you get a sweet spot natural Jacuzzi in an idyllic location. Your legs seem to relax and loosen up after being submerged in the warm water for a while. Our group had an extended lunch break here, it was as if nobody wanted to leave this paradise oasis, but we needed to cover some more kilometers and reluctantly the packs went on our backs once again. Consider taking a long stop here and factor the time into your hiking plan, even better try and overnight at Palm Sulphur Springs and enjoy it for as long as you can. The group’s rather ambitious goal was to push on and overnight near a rumored water source at Mountain Chat Ridges just before the 23km mark on the river. After leaving Palm Sulphur Springs at about 13:45 after resting during midday the last 7km push for the day to reach 23km along the river was realistically within reach for the afternoon. Upon leaving Palm Sulphur Springs our group encountered the wild horses of the canyon. We were very happy to have had a sighting of these free and untamed animals. Although introduced or set free by German Soldiers long ago, these horses, few in number, have been made honorary locals of the Fish River. They can be spotted from any point South of Palm Sulphur Springs according to the Slingsby map. The terrain of the trail seemed to get a bit more forgiving after Palm Sulphur Springs, but the heat of the day did not. It was a scorching 38 degrees over dark rocks and sandy sections. Fortunately, there were more sections of hard compact gravel, but the sun and heat forced us to take many breaks in whatever shade was available. The odd large rock, small tree or large bush was an absolute sanctuary, we stopped for a few minutes after every kilometer when shade appeared just to catch a much-needed break. Eventually the rock with a large white 20km painted on it was passed and to the groups luck more shrubs and the odd thorn tree for a shade break. After turning another corner, Sentinel Rock at around 22km was in sight and that meant it was the last kilometer for the day, or so we thought. Pushing the extra kilometer, the pool below Chat Mountain Ridges was eventually reached, a thirsty group gazed on in disbelief at how small and green this water supply was. If it were a matter of life or death filtering the water through our Sawyer squeeze filters and adding drops could have been an option. The decision to push on to another rumored pool just 2 kilometers more was far more appealing than having to stomach that water. The decision to push on was eased by the fact that the sun was sinking low and there were even some areas of shade appearing, the temperature though still hot was noticeably cooler than before. At about 17:30 Zebra pools at around 25km were reached and to the group’s disgust they weren’t much better than those found two kilometers back. Fortunately, there were some signs of others who had dug holes near the edge indicating that the water here could work if needed. We began digging near the edge of the pool to clean some of the water. It was at this point disgruntled murmurs began amongst some in the group who were not keen on the water quality at Zebra Pools. Others who had already sat down and started getting comfortable were in no mood to push on yet again. It was decided that a few group members would push on for an absolute maximum of 2 kilometers to see if there was any better water at Klipspringer Ridge or just beyond. They would scout and report back. The scouts headed off downstream and the rest of us began relaxing and capturing photos of the sun setting behind the infamous Table Mountain of the Fish River Canyon. As soon as the last light was almost gone, I stopped this recording for the day, so sure that had there been water the scouts would have found it and returned by now. Luckily nobody started pitching a tent because no sooner the scouts were back with a bottle full of water so clear it looked as though it could have come straight from a glacier. Nobody could deny the quality, but the thought of having to get up in the dark and walk the supposed less than 2km was more than some were willing to trade. As a group we took a vote and the clean water won. Bags up and 2 kilometers more was worth it in my opinion and I voted as such. Before the scouts retuned I was so sure we wouldn’t move and so it was at this point I started Day 3’s GPS recording. I have marked the final Campsite the group officially used for night 2 as a waypoint it is a short way down the river right at the foot of Table Mountain. We encountered the clear spring beneath a large rock, the camping area at the foot of Table Mountain was as good as any. Day 3’s recording begins at Zebra Pools but this was not the actual overnight spot. Day two although tough in the heat and substantial in distance was probably my personal favorite. Palm Sulphur Springs and the surrounding scenery is what will almost always come to mind whenever I think back of the Canyon. Take the time to reflect and enjoy the surroundings on this iconic section of the trail. The highlights on this section are some of the Canyon’s finest.