Fish River Canyon Day 1 Descent – (Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park – Namibia)

This recording of group 251’s descent into the Fish River Canyon on 28.08.2023 is part of a day-by-day series of Wikiloc GPS recordings. The series follows the standard Fish River Canyon hiking strategy i.e. to complete the hike through the canyon in 5 days ending at Ai-Ais resort on 1 September 2023. 2023 was considered to be a very dry year, some sources site it as one of the river’s driest on record. This coupled with the fact that it was very late in the dry season and the high temperatures made for a challenging but rewarding experience, an experience that a group of 13 first time canyon hikers wouldn’t soon forget! Hiking the Fish River Canyon in such dry conditions was challenging at times but it still was a top-notch trail, the scenery and seclusion was amazing, water was eventually available, and most importantly a bunch of strangers or acquaintances pulled together and left as a group of friends. As many who have experienced this canyon before can contest, it’s hard not to get a little sentimental about it. Something about the experience in this dry unforgiving place grabs a hold and doesn’t easily let go, it keeps some coming back year after year and once part of the elite club who have completed this trail it’s easy to see why. Not entirely sure if it’s the incredible scenery with canyon walls towering above you, or if it’s the comradery, or even if it’s the moments of solitude and struggle, but overall, in my opinion this is a highly recommended life experience. Please enjoy it and play your part to make sure the experience is as pristine for generations to come. The descent into the Fish River Canyon begins after being dropped off at the Hiker’s Viewpoint parking area which is nothing more than a small gravel cul-de-sac where the minibus shuttle which transported group 251 from Ai-Ais came to a stop. There is an option to shuttle from Hobas camp and this may allow for an earlier start but it will require driving from Ai-Ais to fetch vehicles after the trail is completed. Before starting the hike ask your driver to stop briefly at the main viewpoint. From the main viewpoint you get a different vantage point, and you see the iconic view of the Canyon’s U-shape bend which the river has carved out over millennia, quite the sight, but also slightly unnerving as you wonder how you might ever reach the river below. Spiegelberg or Spieelberg at 1231m above sea level is a prominent peak which can be spotted in the distance towards the Southwest. The peak is close to Ai-Ais so although it’s as the crow flies it can give you an indication of the vast distance you will be covering on foot over the next few days. Another perk of this stop at the main viewpoint is that after descending you will be able to gaze back up to the viewpoint from the river below. This gives one even more perspective of just how insignificant you are compared to your surroundings. Once dropped off at the Hikers Viewpoint parking area and after a short walk past the bathrooms and picnic spot, the start of the trail is reached. A large green painted slab marks the start of the hiking trail, and it is from here that the hike officially begins, although kilometer zero is only reached once down at the river! Differing from most other trails the very start of the Fish River Canyon hike is the steepest descent section of the entire trail. Straight after leaving the hiker’s viewpoint the path winds and bends sharply down a sheer rock face, photographs never seem to capture the magnitude. The bends and the drops beyond them are separated by chains which protect hikers and allow for holds when trying to move downward with a bulky and heavy backpack. Although steep in some sections it should be noted that the descent is very manageable for most. All but those with an extreme aversion to heights will find it manageable if not enjoyable provided you haven’t overpacked and proceed slowly. Assisting members of the group to get down safely and navigate the rocks with large bags on this section is the advisable thing to do. Make sure your backpack is not overloaded and do not carry too much water down as there are rather reliable pools right at the bottom where one can fill. After what is really a short section of steep descent the trail becomes noticeably less steep but important to note, the gravel underfoot becomes looser, and this can create a slip hazard. As far as the descent goes its less vertigo than before but you are not out of the woods just yet. Concentration on each step and not slipping is going to be essential to get down to the river at the bottom safely. The path winds and zig zags down on gravel with the odd rock for quite some time before reaching rockier or boulder sections with the odd tree and shrub below. This is an interesting section of the descent and some shade in these sections can be a welcomed sight especially if it was a late start. It’s well worth observing the scenery or taking a small break here. There is even a tap which rises out of the ground at this spot! No luck with water after our group opened it in 2023. From this point the trail seems to level out even more and there are a series of medium sized boulders to climb down on route to the river below. The path can get indistinct in some places so be on the lookout for white arrow markers or the odd rock cairn which can help show the easiest route down. Soon thereafter the sandy section of the riverbed was reached with a large pool beneath it. The main pool at kilometer zero was extremely green and teaming with bird life and activity, not ideal for quality drinking water. Fortunately heading upstream about 100m or so revealed another much clearer pool and the water was of good quality. There are a few shady sections amongst the rocks for a break and at 36 degrees a swim in the river was a non-negotiable for some of the group’s members. It is from departing this point that you begin your first kilometer on the river and Day 1’s walking along the river begins! Please see the trail, Fish River Canyon, Day 1 – (Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park – Namibia) in this Wikiloc Profile for GPS trail and waypoints to continue.The high temperatures and lack of water in late August 2023 certainly had an impact on the day’s distance and overnight choices for this group. These recordings should act merely as a guide as conditions may be entirely different or allow for more favorable overnight choices or water filling locations. With that in mind these recordings and their associated waypoints can help guide if another dry year arises. During years where the river is high the routes and crossings in these recordings may have to be altered to deal with high flowing water, some of the sections may not be viable or accessible so adapt accordingly. When asked if I would ever hike the Fish River Canyon again my answer is always the same, absolutely! But, with that said I would hike the canyon on a year in which the river is not too dry nor too flooded, and not early or late in the season to avoid extreme heat as we experienced. I would do the trail over a leisurely 6 days to really take in the scenery and I would spend ample time in the first 40km where the canyon walls are high, narrow and the landscape is more dramatic. I would aim for an early descent and then push on to 4 or 7 kilometers for the first overnight and then after a leisurely second day I would spend the following afternoon and evening at Palm Sulphur Springs, a truly spectacular place with a 57C natural hot spring as a bonus. Ground can easily be made up in the last stretch of the canyon and a lighter pack coupled with a few days of getting accustomed to walking make covering 20km or more on the last days far easier than in the first section of the canyon. I would rent a satellite phone again even though we didn’t need it because the two emergency exits are either a mountain to climb or only an option after 50km walked. I would pack less food and clothing and more game and rehydrate and I wouldn’t camp on fine red sand as this gets in and sticks to everything, stick to the larger grain beige sand for sleeping. I would only take a tent if its ultralight like mine is. A hat with vents and sunscreen are a must as you walk in the sun for the majority of the day. If temperatures are high consider breaking during the heat of the day and walk in the early morning and the later afternoon. In the canyon sunrise is late and sunset is somewhat early with sufficient light to allow you to cover ground in cooler conditions. Mosquitos and other insects can be bothersome especially if opt to leave a tent at home so take insect repellant. A small lightweight repellant stick is the most packable option. Snakes are present in the canyon with Horned Adders making an appearance every so often, so if the boulders that threaten your ankles aren’t reason enough to watch your step, snakes are another. At night Scorpions and Red Roman Spiders are out and about so watch your step and always shake your boots out the next morning before sliding your feet into them. Wildlife in the canyon is plentiful but not often spotted. We encountered Klipspringers and Gemsbok leaving Ai-Ais, Black Eagles soaring near the viewpoint above, Kudus in the riverbed on day 3, the wild horses at Palm Sulphur Springs, baboons were plentiful but kept their distance, Caracul and Leopard although present as evident from their spoor were not encountered and rarely ever are. GPS watches with maps were extremely useful in finding the path or shortest route. Ideally load GPX files like this recording and a few others to different devices to have a few sources. The Fish River Canyon Map by Slingsby Maps was a very valuable item. Take photos of sections of the map so you don’t have open and refold it all the time. Be careful in taking your device’s distance recorded as gospel, the high canyon walls bounce the GPS signal increasing error point readings, and variations in walking add distance so you may have a few extra kilometers recorded at the end of each day. Generally, you can expect an extra km or so on your device versus the paper map each day. While the trail can get tiring at points and the trudging through the sand or hopping boulders may feel like an endless burden do not forget to look up and take in your surrounds, capture photographs and video whenever possible but the pictures wont do the spectacle of the canyon any justice. Train for this trail with a weighted pack, or get your fitness up somehow! That’s the difference between finding the Fish a struggle or finding it enjoyable. Even if you struggle you will feel a sense of accomplishment and there will be plenty of fond memories to look back on. Enjoy the hike!