Ezpeleta. Haranea. Zuharte. Urrezti. Mondarrain. Ezkondrai. Haranea
near Espelette, Nouvelle-Aquitaine (France)
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Trail photos
Itinerary description
Ibilbide eta egun zoragarria gaurkoa, anekdota on, eta ez horren onez, zipriztindua. Lehen zatia egiteko ricardohernaniren Red Comėte ibilbidea jarraitu dugu.
Red Comète hori zer izan zen jakiteko hona esteka batzuk:
https://www.naiz.eus/eu/info/noticia/20140913/red-comete-los-mugalaris-que-salvaban-pilotos
https://nabarralde.eus/red-comete-gran-evasion-por-navarra/
https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/es/la-red-comete-en-el-pais-vasco/ar-154381/#
Autoa Ezpeleta eta Itsasu lotzen dituen errepideko Haranea izeneko auzoan utzi dugu 01.argazkian ikusten den bezala. Etxe baten aldamenean utzi dugu autoa. Zain egon naiz bertakoen bat agertuko ote zen baimena eskatzeko baina inor ez da agertu. Hala ere lasai utz daiteke autoa paraje horretan.
Itsasoko errepidea utzi eta aurrera jarraitu dugu beste errepide estu batetik.
03.bidegunetik gertu, errepide bazterrean dagoen baserritik kangal arrazako zakur bat irten zait. Ez dakienarentzat zakur hori lehoi batekin nahastu daiteke; ile-kalparra ez zuenez, pizti hura zakur bat zela ondorioztatu nuen. Wikipedian irakurrita enteratu naiz arraza horretako zakurrak oso mesfidatiak direla arrotz zaien izakiekin (izan otso, hartz, edo mendizale baketsua). Atzetik emakume gazte bat etorri da zakurra isil dadin aginduz baina, nonbait, kanpotarrekin mesfidatia izateaz gain, gorra ote zegoen pentsatu nuen (zakurra, ez jabea). Jabea Iritsi eta fermuki eutsi dion arte ez da baretu kangal zakur (?) hori. Jabeak azaldu dit zakurrari ez zaizkiola bastoiak gustatzen (hurrengoan patin batean etorriko naiz). Hori izan da eguneko anekdota negatiboa.
Gutxira, errepidea bukatu eta ibilbide guztia mendi-bidez burutu ahal izan dugu. Gaur egun ez da gutxi.
Aurreko egunetan euria erruz bota du eta, horrenbestez, errekak hazita datoz. Bidea sakonune baten hondoan dago, urritzez, larrez eta basoz inguratua. Plazer hutsa da hemendik ibiltzea.
Kronika hau idazten ari naizela beste susto bat izan dugula oroitu naiz. Gure artean ehiza-zakur baten zintzarria entzuten genuela komentatzen ari ginela, hurbilean, tiro-hots bat entzun dugu! Bigarren sustua!
12.bidegunean, lepo batean, Agerre bordatik gertu, pista batekin topo egin dugu. Hala ere, hortik gorako ibilia ez dugu betonaren gainean egin beharrik izan.
14.bidegunean oroitarri baten argazkia igo dut. 1973ko maiatzaren 13an, gosez eta hotzez, bertan hil ziren lau Maliar gazteren omenez eginiko metalezko plaka bat da. Aldamenean Xalbadorren "Mendian galdu direnei" bertso-sorta. Omenezko oroitarria lau pagoz inguratua dago. Hona bertsoak irakurri ahal izateko esteka.
https://www.armiarma.eus/cgi-bin/urkiza/EBMODBER.pl?Bertso=42766
15.bidegunean Zuharreteako lepora heldu gara. Bertatik, iparrera begira, Mondarrain aldera alegia, bi senda ateratzen direla ikusiko dugu. Mendizale bikote batek eskuinetik joateko aholkatu digu. Guk hala egin dugu.
16.bidegunean betizuen berri ematen duen panel bat dago.
Urrezti mendia eskuinean utzi dugu eta haren magaletik egin dugu aurrera. Momentu batean senda utzi eta goiko ertzera igo naiz Urreztira igotzeko asmoz. Goian nengoela konturatu naiz ez nengoela bertan. Hortaz uste dut, ahal bada, politagoa dela Urreztira igo eta, gero, goi ertzetik abiatzea Mondarrainera.
Mondarrainen zerbait pikatu dugu. Eguna hotzetik doa, baina arropan ongi bilduta, eguzkiaren printza herabeen goxogasunean, primeran egoten da.
Nire harridurarako jende asko dabil mendian, eta erretiratuak ez direnak, ez gutxi.
Pagadi batean behera egin dugu, kontu apurtxo batekin. Amazketako lepoan gutako batzuk Ezkondrai muinora igotzea erabaki dugu, beste batzuk hura saihestuz, zeharka joan dira.
Ia-ia beheraino inolako ezustekorik gabe (ez txarrantxa amorragarri, ez ote deseroso) iritsi gara autoraino. Une batzuetan ematen zuen bidexka desagertuko zela baina, ez, beheraino jaitsi ahal izan gara problemarik gabe.
Laburbilduz, ibilbide zoragarri eta gustagarria!!
Autoan sartu eta garagardo bat gustura edango genuela komentatzen ari garela bide bazterrean jatetxe-basarri-ferme bat!!
Bertan aparkatu, barrura sartu eta bertakoei galdetu diegu eta zerbait edan genezakeen. Eta euskaraz ote dakiten. Bi galderei, baietz.
Jabea izateko itxura duen gizonkoteak, aitona Gabirikoa zuela esan digu. Berarekin solastatu gara luzez. Oso lapurtera ederra du. Denbora laburrean, bakarrik liburuetan existitzen diren hitzak direnak, entzun ahal izan ditut haren mintzoan. "Estakuru", "alhaleku", "azkarra(indartsu)"...Nire lagunetako batek oso euskara aberatsa du eta elkarrizketa osoa jarraitu ahal izan dio. Ni, momenturen batean, galdu naiz.
Lekuaren izena "Ferme Erreka", Itsasuko errepidean, Ezpeletan.
Magnificent itinerary and day today, sprinkled with good and not as good anecdotes. To carry out the first part of the route we’ve followed the “Red Cométe” way of ricardohernani.
For those who are unfamiliar whit what the “Red Comète” was, below three links:
https://www.naiz.eus/eu/info/noticia/20140913/red-comete-los-mugalaris-que-salvaban-pilotos
https://nabarralde.eus/red-comete-gran-evasion-por-navarra/
https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/es/la-red-comete-en-el-pais-vasco/ar-154381/#
We’ve parked our car in the road that connects Ezpeleta to Itsasu in the neighbourhood known as Haranea which is at the waypoint 01. We’ve have parked next to a house and, therefore, I’ve been waiting to ask permission from the neighbours, but nobody has appeared and I haven’t been able to do it. In any case it’s evident that there’s no problem to leave the car in the spot.
Near to the waypoint 03, a kangal mastiff has come out to me from a farm by the side of the road. For those people who don’t know what a kangal dog is I’ll say that it can be mixed up with a lion. As it hadn’t a mane I deduced that that wild beast was a big and angry enormous dog. Reading in wikipedia I find out that these dogs are very suspicious with beings that are strange to them (no matter if it is a wolf, a bear or a terryfied walker). Behind it a young woman approached us ordering the dog to shut up but, somehow, in addition to being distrusful with the foreigners I thought it was deaf ( the dog, not the owner).
Not until the owner held it firmly had the kangal dog (?) calmed down. The owner has explained to me that the dog doesn’t like people who hold walking sticks. That’s has been the first negative anecdote.
Soon, the road comes to an end and we have been able to carry out the whole itinerary on mountain paths.
The previous days it had been raining heavily and, therefore, the creeks flow abundantly. The path, located on a depression, runs along meadows, hazelnat trees and bushes. It’s just a pleasure to walk along here. Writing this chronicle I have just remembered that we got another fright. In a given moment we were telling each other that the sound of a hound’s bell was ringing and, in that very moment, close to us, a shot rang out. The second fright.
In the waypoint 12, in a pass, near Agerre hut, we’ve come across a “pista”. Still, we haven’t walked on concrete-road.
At the waypoint 14, I’ve uploaded the phototograph of a memorial. On may 13, 1973 four young people from Mali died of hunger and cold in that spot. Next, there is a poem of Xalbador called “Mendian galdu direnei” (To those lost in the mountain). The memorial is surrounded by four beeches. Below a link to be able to read the poem.
https://www.armiarma.eus/cgi-bin/urkiza/EBMODBER.pl?Bertso=42766
At the waypoint 15 we’ve reached Zuharreteako pass. From there, looking north, that is, towards Mondarrain, we’ll see two paths. A mountaineering couple has advised us to take the one on the right. We’ve followed their advise.
In the waypoint 16 a panel explains about wild cows called “betizuak”.
We’ve left the peak of Urrezti on our right. In a given moment I have gone to the right in the aim of getting to the top. But the top was a bit far away behind me. So, I think that is better to get directly to Urrezti top.
In Mondarrain we got a quick bite. The day is a bit cold but, wrapped in our clothes, and in the timid, slightly warm sun rays, we are in heaven.
To my amazement a lot of people are going around the mountain, and many of them are not retired!
We’ve gone down through a beech forest a bit carefully. In Amezketa pass some of us have decided to go up to Ezkondrai summit, whereas, others have preferred to avoid it.
We’ve reached the car almost without any kind of incidents (no irritating barbed wire, no uncomfortable gorse).
In Amezketa pass some of us have decided to go up to Ezkondrai summit, whereas, others have preferred to avoid it. In certain moments it looked like the path was going to disappear but it didn’t.
To summarise, delightful and pleasant route.
We got into the car and at the same time we were saying that it would be lovelly to have a beer, an inn emerged on the side of the road. After parking the car we went in and asked if we could get a beer. And if they spoke Basque. To our happiness, they answered affirmatively to both questions.
The big man who apparently was the owner told us that his grandfather came from Gabiria (Gipuzkoa). We had a long chat. He spoke a very beautiful “lapurtera” (Basque dialect). In a very short time I heard words that I thought only existed in books. Words as “estakuru” (excuse), “alhaleku” (pasture), “azkarra” (strong)...One of our friends has a very high level in Basque language and he has been able to entirely follow his talk. In a certain moment I got lost.
The name of the tavern, “Ferme Erreka”, on the road to Itsasu in Ezpeleta.
Red Comète hori zer izan zen jakiteko hona esteka batzuk:
https://www.naiz.eus/eu/info/noticia/20140913/red-comete-los-mugalaris-que-salvaban-pilotos
https://nabarralde.eus/red-comete-gran-evasion-por-navarra/
https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/es/la-red-comete-en-el-pais-vasco/ar-154381/#
Autoa Ezpeleta eta Itsasu lotzen dituen errepideko Haranea izeneko auzoan utzi dugu 01.argazkian ikusten den bezala. Etxe baten aldamenean utzi dugu autoa. Zain egon naiz bertakoen bat agertuko ote zen baimena eskatzeko baina inor ez da agertu. Hala ere lasai utz daiteke autoa paraje horretan.
Itsasoko errepidea utzi eta aurrera jarraitu dugu beste errepide estu batetik.
03.bidegunetik gertu, errepide bazterrean dagoen baserritik kangal arrazako zakur bat irten zait. Ez dakienarentzat zakur hori lehoi batekin nahastu daiteke; ile-kalparra ez zuenez, pizti hura zakur bat zela ondorioztatu nuen. Wikipedian irakurrita enteratu naiz arraza horretako zakurrak oso mesfidatiak direla arrotz zaien izakiekin (izan otso, hartz, edo mendizale baketsua). Atzetik emakume gazte bat etorri da zakurra isil dadin aginduz baina, nonbait, kanpotarrekin mesfidatia izateaz gain, gorra ote zegoen pentsatu nuen (zakurra, ez jabea). Jabea Iritsi eta fermuki eutsi dion arte ez da baretu kangal zakur (?) hori. Jabeak azaldu dit zakurrari ez zaizkiola bastoiak gustatzen (hurrengoan patin batean etorriko naiz). Hori izan da eguneko anekdota negatiboa.
Gutxira, errepidea bukatu eta ibilbide guztia mendi-bidez burutu ahal izan dugu. Gaur egun ez da gutxi.
Aurreko egunetan euria erruz bota du eta, horrenbestez, errekak hazita datoz. Bidea sakonune baten hondoan dago, urritzez, larrez eta basoz inguratua. Plazer hutsa da hemendik ibiltzea.
Kronika hau idazten ari naizela beste susto bat izan dugula oroitu naiz. Gure artean ehiza-zakur baten zintzarria entzuten genuela komentatzen ari ginela, hurbilean, tiro-hots bat entzun dugu! Bigarren sustua!
12.bidegunean, lepo batean, Agerre bordatik gertu, pista batekin topo egin dugu. Hala ere, hortik gorako ibilia ez dugu betonaren gainean egin beharrik izan.
14.bidegunean oroitarri baten argazkia igo dut. 1973ko maiatzaren 13an, gosez eta hotzez, bertan hil ziren lau Maliar gazteren omenez eginiko metalezko plaka bat da. Aldamenean Xalbadorren "Mendian galdu direnei" bertso-sorta. Omenezko oroitarria lau pagoz inguratua dago. Hona bertsoak irakurri ahal izateko esteka.
https://www.armiarma.eus/cgi-bin/urkiza/EBMODBER.pl?Bertso=42766
15.bidegunean Zuharreteako lepora heldu gara. Bertatik, iparrera begira, Mondarrain aldera alegia, bi senda ateratzen direla ikusiko dugu. Mendizale bikote batek eskuinetik joateko aholkatu digu. Guk hala egin dugu.
16.bidegunean betizuen berri ematen duen panel bat dago.
Urrezti mendia eskuinean utzi dugu eta haren magaletik egin dugu aurrera. Momentu batean senda utzi eta goiko ertzera igo naiz Urreztira igotzeko asmoz. Goian nengoela konturatu naiz ez nengoela bertan. Hortaz uste dut, ahal bada, politagoa dela Urreztira igo eta, gero, goi ertzetik abiatzea Mondarrainera.
Mondarrainen zerbait pikatu dugu. Eguna hotzetik doa, baina arropan ongi bilduta, eguzkiaren printza herabeen goxogasunean, primeran egoten da.
Nire harridurarako jende asko dabil mendian, eta erretiratuak ez direnak, ez gutxi.
Pagadi batean behera egin dugu, kontu apurtxo batekin. Amazketako lepoan gutako batzuk Ezkondrai muinora igotzea erabaki dugu, beste batzuk hura saihestuz, zeharka joan dira.
Ia-ia beheraino inolako ezustekorik gabe (ez txarrantxa amorragarri, ez ote deseroso) iritsi gara autoraino. Une batzuetan ematen zuen bidexka desagertuko zela baina, ez, beheraino jaitsi ahal izan gara problemarik gabe.
Laburbilduz, ibilbide zoragarri eta gustagarria!!
Autoan sartu eta garagardo bat gustura edango genuela komentatzen ari garela bide bazterrean jatetxe-basarri-ferme bat!!
Bertan aparkatu, barrura sartu eta bertakoei galdetu diegu eta zerbait edan genezakeen. Eta euskaraz ote dakiten. Bi galderei, baietz.
Jabea izateko itxura duen gizonkoteak, aitona Gabirikoa zuela esan digu. Berarekin solastatu gara luzez. Oso lapurtera ederra du. Denbora laburrean, bakarrik liburuetan existitzen diren hitzak direnak, entzun ahal izan ditut haren mintzoan. "Estakuru", "alhaleku", "azkarra(indartsu)"...Nire lagunetako batek oso euskara aberatsa du eta elkarrizketa osoa jarraitu ahal izan dio. Ni, momenturen batean, galdu naiz.
Lekuaren izena "Ferme Erreka", Itsasuko errepidean, Ezpeletan.
Magnificent itinerary and day today, sprinkled with good and not as good anecdotes. To carry out the first part of the route we’ve followed the “Red Cométe” way of ricardohernani.
For those who are unfamiliar whit what the “Red Comète” was, below three links:
https://www.naiz.eus/eu/info/noticia/20140913/red-comete-los-mugalaris-que-salvaban-pilotos
https://nabarralde.eus/red-comete-gran-evasion-por-navarra/
https://aunamendi.eusko-ikaskuntza.eus/es/la-red-comete-en-el-pais-vasco/ar-154381/#
We’ve parked our car in the road that connects Ezpeleta to Itsasu in the neighbourhood known as Haranea which is at the waypoint 01. We’ve have parked next to a house and, therefore, I’ve been waiting to ask permission from the neighbours, but nobody has appeared and I haven’t been able to do it. In any case it’s evident that there’s no problem to leave the car in the spot.
Near to the waypoint 03, a kangal mastiff has come out to me from a farm by the side of the road. For those people who don’t know what a kangal dog is I’ll say that it can be mixed up with a lion. As it hadn’t a mane I deduced that that wild beast was a big and angry enormous dog. Reading in wikipedia I find out that these dogs are very suspicious with beings that are strange to them (no matter if it is a wolf, a bear or a terryfied walker). Behind it a young woman approached us ordering the dog to shut up but, somehow, in addition to being distrusful with the foreigners I thought it was deaf ( the dog, not the owner).
Not until the owner held it firmly had the kangal dog (?) calmed down. The owner has explained to me that the dog doesn’t like people who hold walking sticks. That’s has been the first negative anecdote.
Soon, the road comes to an end and we have been able to carry out the whole itinerary on mountain paths.
The previous days it had been raining heavily and, therefore, the creeks flow abundantly. The path, located on a depression, runs along meadows, hazelnat trees and bushes. It’s just a pleasure to walk along here. Writing this chronicle I have just remembered that we got another fright. In a given moment we were telling each other that the sound of a hound’s bell was ringing and, in that very moment, close to us, a shot rang out. The second fright.
In the waypoint 12, in a pass, near Agerre hut, we’ve come across a “pista”. Still, we haven’t walked on concrete-road.
At the waypoint 14, I’ve uploaded the phototograph of a memorial. On may 13, 1973 four young people from Mali died of hunger and cold in that spot. Next, there is a poem of Xalbador called “Mendian galdu direnei” (To those lost in the mountain). The memorial is surrounded by four beeches. Below a link to be able to read the poem.
https://www.armiarma.eus/cgi-bin/urkiza/EBMODBER.pl?Bertso=42766
At the waypoint 15 we’ve reached Zuharreteako pass. From there, looking north, that is, towards Mondarrain, we’ll see two paths. A mountaineering couple has advised us to take the one on the right. We’ve followed their advise.
In the waypoint 16 a panel explains about wild cows called “betizuak”.
We’ve left the peak of Urrezti on our right. In a given moment I have gone to the right in the aim of getting to the top. But the top was a bit far away behind me. So, I think that is better to get directly to Urrezti top.
In Mondarrain we got a quick bite. The day is a bit cold but, wrapped in our clothes, and in the timid, slightly warm sun rays, we are in heaven.
To my amazement a lot of people are going around the mountain, and many of them are not retired!
We’ve gone down through a beech forest a bit carefully. In Amezketa pass some of us have decided to go up to Ezkondrai summit, whereas, others have preferred to avoid it.
We’ve reached the car almost without any kind of incidents (no irritating barbed wire, no uncomfortable gorse).
In Amezketa pass some of us have decided to go up to Ezkondrai summit, whereas, others have preferred to avoid it. In certain moments it looked like the path was going to disappear but it didn’t.
To summarise, delightful and pleasant route.
We got into the car and at the same time we were saying that it would be lovelly to have a beer, an inn emerged on the side of the road. After parking the car we went in and asked if we could get a beer. And if they spoke Basque. To our happiness, they answered affirmatively to both questions.
The big man who apparently was the owner told us that his grandfather came from Gabiria (Gipuzkoa). We had a long chat. He spoke a very beautiful “lapurtera” (Basque dialect). In a very short time I heard words that I thought only existed in books. Words as “estakuru” (excuse), “alhaleku” (pasture), “azkarra” (strong)...One of our friends has a very high level in Basque language and he has been able to entirely follow his talk. In a certain moment I got lost.
The name of the tavern, “Ferme Erreka”, on the road to Itsasu in Ezpeleta.
Waypoints
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