Erçiyes Dağı (3917m)
near Cebir, Kayseri (Türkiye)
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Itinerary description
Climb to the East (Little) summit of Erçiyes Dağı, following the south ridge trail, named the Crest Route, passing above Parmak Kaya (3637m) and under (front side, on the right) Hörgüc Kaya (3819m) peaks.
'EASTERN CLIMB
Those who want to try climbing from the Eastern face of Erçiyes Dağı need to get to the Erçiyes Ski Center-Hotels (2150 m) in Tekir Plateau. The second target point is Dağevi, located at the 2nd lift-station region, accessed by cableway or on foot; or Çoban İni camp site, at an altitude of 3100 meters. Those who will hit the summit via the Crest Route generally prefer Dağevi for camping; those who will use Şeytan Boğazı and Left Lane routes prefer Çoban İni camp site. Access to the Çoban İni camp site on foot takes 3 hours from Tekir Plateau and 1 hour from Dağevi.
a) Şeytan Boğazı Route
This route is quite steep and difficult compared to other tracks. During winter climbs, technical equipment, training and a guide are necessary. There is a risk of avalanche. In summer climbs, it is recommended that you hike with a guide for such reasons as steepness, fall of rocks and scree ground. From Şeytan Boğazı route, you directly go up to the little summit crest, beyond Hörgüç Kaya, and reach the little summit from there. With a 20 or 30-minute hike from the little summit, you reach the big summit. The West (Big) summit of Erçiyes is a 15-meter-high rock in the shape of a tower. Below this mass is a cave that connects the Eastern and Northern climbing routes with each other. You will need technical equipment support in order to climb the rocky summit.
Those who hit the top via Şeytan Boğazı usually go back from the same route. Those who do not wish to walk the same route can go down using Left Lane or Crest Route.
b) Left Lane (Nesrin Topkapı) Route
Left Lane is on the left of Şeytan Boğazı route, separating after Çoban İni camp, going up to the Erçiyes south ridge where it merges with Crest Route before arriving at the Hörgüç Kaya. There are three options to reach the summit from the Hörgüç Kaya location, on this route which is less risky compared to Şeytan route in terms of the risk of rock falls and avalanche. You can either cross over Hörgüç Kaya by partial rock climbing to go up to the little summit crest; or by declining a little from its front (on the right) or behind (on the left) and then ascending again to the crest. You can determine your route depending on the state of snow and ice. The passage behind Hörgüç Kaya is the safest route although it has disadvantage such as scree ground and long distance. The mountaineers climbing from this route usually prefer Şeytan Boğazı route on their way back because it is shorter.
c) Crest Route
This is the longest route to Erçiyes summit but it is less risky in the summer months. You gain elevation by hiking along the Erçiyes south ridge (crest) that surrounds Üçker Basin. After each hill you climb on the crest, another one comes, but you persistently keep on going to reach Hörgüç Kaya and merge with Left Lane track. Crest route should not be preferred in the winter months due to the strong wind and blizzard.'
'EASTERN CLIMB
Those who want to try climbing from the Eastern face of Erçiyes Dağı need to get to the Erçiyes Ski Center-Hotels (2150 m) in Tekir Plateau. The second target point is Dağevi, located at the 2nd lift-station region, accessed by cableway or on foot; or Çoban İni camp site, at an altitude of 3100 meters. Those who will hit the summit via the Crest Route generally prefer Dağevi for camping; those who will use Şeytan Boğazı and Left Lane routes prefer Çoban İni camp site. Access to the Çoban İni camp site on foot takes 3 hours from Tekir Plateau and 1 hour from Dağevi.
a) Şeytan Boğazı Route
This route is quite steep and difficult compared to other tracks. During winter climbs, technical equipment, training and a guide are necessary. There is a risk of avalanche. In summer climbs, it is recommended that you hike with a guide for such reasons as steepness, fall of rocks and scree ground. From Şeytan Boğazı route, you directly go up to the little summit crest, beyond Hörgüç Kaya, and reach the little summit from there. With a 20 or 30-minute hike from the little summit, you reach the big summit. The West (Big) summit of Erçiyes is a 15-meter-high rock in the shape of a tower. Below this mass is a cave that connects the Eastern and Northern climbing routes with each other. You will need technical equipment support in order to climb the rocky summit.
Those who hit the top via Şeytan Boğazı usually go back from the same route. Those who do not wish to walk the same route can go down using Left Lane or Crest Route.
b) Left Lane (Nesrin Topkapı) Route
Left Lane is on the left of Şeytan Boğazı route, separating after Çoban İni camp, going up to the Erçiyes south ridge where it merges with Crest Route before arriving at the Hörgüç Kaya. There are three options to reach the summit from the Hörgüç Kaya location, on this route which is less risky compared to Şeytan route in terms of the risk of rock falls and avalanche. You can either cross over Hörgüç Kaya by partial rock climbing to go up to the little summit crest; or by declining a little from its front (on the right) or behind (on the left) and then ascending again to the crest. You can determine your route depending on the state of snow and ice. The passage behind Hörgüç Kaya is the safest route although it has disadvantage such as scree ground and long distance. The mountaineers climbing from this route usually prefer Şeytan Boğazı route on their way back because it is shorter.
c) Crest Route
This is the longest route to Erçiyes summit but it is less risky in the summer months. You gain elevation by hiking along the Erçiyes south ridge (crest) that surrounds Üçker Basin. After each hill you climb on the crest, another one comes, but you persistently keep on going to reach Hörgüç Kaya and merge with Left Lane track. Crest route should not be preferred in the winter months due to the strong wind and blizzard.'
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