Bucura Lake - Umărul Porţii - Bucura I - Curmătura Bucurei - Bucura Lake (08/2023)

Physical difficulty: 2/5
Technical difficulty: 2.5/5

Note #1: There is no mobile reception in the majority of Retezat National Park. You may get some signal on the peaks, but don't count on it. Prepare your maps in advance.

Note #2: Because of no signal, bring a map app with OpenStreetMaps overview that works offline, like OsmAnd or Muntii Nostri. The basic version of OsmAnd is completely free with more than enough features for hikers. Muntii Nostri is the official Romanian hiking app (has English option also). The free version doesn't work online, but they give you the premium features (including online functionality) for 30 days upon first registration.

Note #2: The trail is entirely in the sun, no shade.

Note #3: A source of potable water is located at Bucura Lake. Water from the lakes is not recommended for drinking.

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The trail starts at Bucura Lake. Follow the red markings to the west of the lake. You will pass beside several smaller lakes: Bucurelu first, then a smaller (unnamed?) lake, then Tăul Porții. At the Umărul Porţii (pass/intersection) you take a right and continue towards the Bucura I peak. The immediate ascent to the peak is across large(ish) granite formations, which require some technical skills and adequate footwear.

From the peak, you descend toward the Curmătura Bucurei (pass/intersection). Here, if you're up to it, you can choose to do a bigger loop and continue to the next peak right in front of you - Custura Bucurei. If you climb Cusutra Bucurei, on the other side of is the Șaua Custura Bucurei (pass/intersection), from which you can descend towards Bucura Lake. Or, you can go even further to Peleaga peak if you're feeling really bold.

We chose to skip Custura Bucurei because we were tired, and headed straight down towards Bucura Lake. This brought us back to Intersection #1, and from there it's a short walk to the starting point.