Ασίνου - Αρκάτζιν του Ρότσου - Φαλακρός - Μούττη του Θκια (Ανεπίσημο - Κυκλικό) - Atsas Mountain Race (Unofficial)

NOTICE: THIS IS AN UNOFFICIAL TRAIL. NOT SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN AND PEOPLE WITH LOW MOBILITY. LARGE PARTS OF THIS TRAIL DO NOT PROVIDE MOBILE PHONE ACCESS.

Background story:

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Last winter, while I was walking along the well-known Asinou - Agios Theodoros trail, I noticed some black & yellow ribbons on a side road. I decided to investigate, and I found myself in one of the most beautiful areas I have ever seen in Cyprus: The valley of the 'Arkatzin tou Rotsou' (Stream of Rotsos). I was so impressed that I tried to find out as mush as possible about this area, and the reason why the ribbons were there.

What I discovered was even more impressive!

First, it turns out that the valley itself (and its northern part towards the Asinou Monastery) has been one of the subjects of the Troodos Archaeological and Environmental Survey Project (TAESP), which investigated (during the period 2001-2003) human activity in the north-central Troodos mountains of Cyprus during all time periods. Part of this survey is available here:

https://www.gla.ac.uk/media/Media_32743_smxx.pdf

The survey uncovered significant evidence of human habitation in the valley since the Hellenistic / Roman times! Habitation was continuous up until the last century, but the area was especially busy during the Medieval and Ottoman times.

Second, the ribbons simply indicated the path of the Atsas Mountain Race, which, as I understand, took place for 3 years in a row until 2019, just before the pandemic. Here is a promotional video of that event:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzODbxZ6i6c

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Based on the previous information, as well as my last year's experience, I decided to re-visit and investigate as soon as the stream started flowing again. There is no point in doing the first part of this hike without the accompanying stream in full flow. You will lose 99% of the magic! So it is my strong suggestion to visit from late December to April (if the winter is wet enough).

Based on my experience, this is easily one of the most beautiful, exciting, and diverse trails in the island!

The trail starts at the Panagia Forviotissa Church, an impressive UNESCO Heritage Church with full frescos, dating from the 10th Century AD onward. For the first 2kms we follow the official Asinou - Agios Theodoros trail, well-signed and well-documented. At around 2.25 kms, you will see a forest dirt road diverging towards the left. Cross the small stream and continue on the forest road. You will start seeing the yellow-black ribbons guiding you, which (presumably) have been left there from the last edition of the race in 2019. They were extremely helpful in my investigation!

You have now entered the valley of the 'Arkatzin tou Rotsou'. Simply stunning. Unbelievable beauty, especially during this time of the year with all the plane tree leaves lying on the ground in yellow/reddish colors. You will follow the road for around one more km, until it becomes a wide cobbled path. In the meantime, you will start criss-crossing the stream numerous times. This is another fantastic element of this particular trail.

You will then reach the area of 'Mandres tous Jerenides', which was part of the TAESP survey. In fact I found the ancient check dams that they reported 20 years ago, but not anything else (this why there are some diversions on the trail's recording). Not long afterwards you will reach the area of Mutallia, where the ruins of the Church of Ayios Georgios are still visible. The trail continues next to the stream and becomes more demanding and relatively more difficult to follow. This is the area which needs your attention. The black-yellow ribbons helped me a lot. But there are clearly cases where nature has taken over. You have to be careful and use your navigation skills properly. My recording gives you a good guide, but use your common sense as well.

You continue to criss-cross the stream repeatedly (needless to say, water-proof, non-slippery hiking shoes is a must for this trail). You pass the area of Trimitheri, which has also been surveyed by the TAESP. The valley becomes much narrower, almost like a gorge until ... at 5.88km you reach a dead-end. The indicated path by the ribbon gives you two options: you either have to use technical climbing on the left rock, or become very wet by going through the stream (the right-hand side is no-go zone, as it has been blocked by gigantic bushes which do no provide a way through). Both options are actually not worth it at all. The reason being that the valley part of the trail finishes only ... 20m after this narrow part! Therefore you can just climb up the right hand slope and reach the forest road that you would join after 20 meters anyway (very manageable slope, only a simple safe climbing for 5 meters is required). There is nothing to see for the remaining 20 meters, you can actually visit it backwards if you feel it is important.

Do notice that, as I indicated earlier, you will have no access to cellular calls and data while you are walking in the valley.

The second part of the trail consists of a 4.5kms climb where you reach successively the mountaintops of 'Falakros' and 'Moutti tou Thkia' (Moutti tou Dia), dissecting in the process the official nature trail. This part is the fitness part! It is not dramatic in terms of total elevation, but for the most part you will have to endure semi-wide cobbled paths going straight-up the mountain. There are no gentle progressive ascends here! Extremely nice hiking experience! Do note that after the Falakros mountaintop I made a short diversion from the main path, but it is very easy to see how you will get back into it as I did.

The third part of the trail is the descend towards the basis. In one sense this is the most risky / difficult. The reason being that the forest road is full of loose boulders under a heavy slope. My trick (that I have used successfully in many similar cases) is not to walk down on the main road, but to use the sides of it, especially where a lot of grass has covered the soil. It makes going down much more stable and so much easier! Nevertheless, keep your speed low at this area. On the 12.20km mark you will see a white water tank on your right hand side . Turn right, pass next to it, and continue down towards the Asinou Church using the very beautiful green trail, full of small mushrooms!

You will soon reach the forest road and you will enter the last part of the trail. This has been heavily damaged since 2019. You will see in my recording my search for clues and ribbons in many areas. Eventually, I managed to find my way through, but the final 'exit' towards the Asinou Church is unfortunately now blocked by overgrown bramble. Not to worry though, just follow my recording for a bypass, and you will soon find yourself at the place you started some hours ago!

Assessment: I'm not sure who created the Atsas Mountain Race, but I would like to congratulate them on the fantastic design! This can actually be a top-5 hiking and racing trail in Cyprus, if it's cleaned up and signposted properly. It has EVERYTHING! The valley is simply unique. The climb to the mountaintops is demanding, and the views are breathtaking! There is also a wealth of culture and history, which can be properly showcased using information boards. How many people actually knew that there were Roman-era settlements in this area? I was stunned to find out to.

However, until the day comes that this trail is properly exploited, please do follow it with great care, and only if you feel comfortable about you abilities. I repeat that this is NOT an official trail, although for the most part it feels like one!