Alta Via 1 stage 4: Refugio Averau - Rifugio Staulanza

Despite the longer time on the road, the fourth day is one of the easier stages on the Alta Via I. One wouldn't say that in the beginning because from Rifugio Averau there is a pretty difficult rock path to Rifugio Passo Giau. But after an hour and a half of toil, the hardest labour of the day is done and I can then enjoy one of my highlights of the Alta Via I.

At the start you have to be careful, because both at Rifugio Averau and the higher situated Rifugio Nuvolau there are via ferratas that you have to overcome. Via ferratas are small climbing routes and although the via ferratas here are quite easy with, among other things, a ladder, it is definitely not recommended to do this with a bulky backpack. My backpack of 17 kilos certainly qualifies for that. Not that I didn't want to try, but when I saw the steep descent on the route (along a small grassy track), my sanity finally prevailed and I took the safer option of gravel roads.

That means first descending along the gravel roads that run to the right of Rifugio Averau to rejoin the route that I first wanted to take fifteen minutes later. This is one of the more difficult rocky paths on the Alta Via I and that is mainly due to the many rocks and unevenness along the way. So it's a matter of an hour of smashing along and going through rocks to get to Rifugio Passo Giau. So it takes some effort, but in retrospect it is a nice route.

After a drink break at the rifugio I climb again to arrive this time on a truly phenomenal alpine meadow. That means first walking along small mountain paths and some of those paths are very close to the abyss. So it doesn't help when I sometimes have to do some tricks to pass a protruding rock. Still, I thoroughly enjoy the peaceful landscape along the way, which stands out because of its inconspicuousness. The extensive plain is squeezed between two mountains and in the meantime I can also use my leg muscles again to climb.

After the climb there is a steady descent equipped with a few streams that are crossed. Here I often stop. Not because I'm tired, but because I can completely immerse myself in the nature and serenity of this place. A little later, this gigantic grassy plain is abandoned for gravel roads that take me to Refugio Citta di Fiume, but that is undeniably the biggest weakness of this route. Psychologically I can already see myself at the end point, but I still stop at Refugio Citta di Fiume.

Fortunately I did, because I didn't know it would take another hour and a half before I would reach my destination, Rifugio Staulanza. Not that it is a punishment, because this passage through first forest and later an extensive scree is one of the highlights of this day. At the forest I am confronted with felled trees obstructing the path, something I am confronted with more often on later days. I even dare to call the transition between the forest and the scree a magical moment, because this is really a unique landscape that you rarely get to see. The journey through the scree is surprisingly smooth as there are - relatively - few rocks on the path itself. The last piece in the forest is less exciting, but still fun to do. A nice end to a surprisingly nice day.

Just like the previous day, this stage has no real highlights, but the beautiful meadow landscape after Rifugio Passo Giau is the scene of much of my hiking joy. The transitional landscape between forest and scree after Rifugio Citta di Fiume is also a bull's eye. The day started doubtfully for me with a wrong choice to try a via ferrata, but I quickly let that idea go. But even without climbing, this route is more than adventurous enough for mountain hikers!