Ακρωτήρι Πύλας Περιεκτική (Πεδίο Βολής - Πύργος - Ποταμός - Μεσαιωνικές Εκκλησίες) / Cape Pyla Comprehensive

A joyful and rich hiking experience in one of the least expected areas of the island; Typical Cyprus :)

The Cape Pyla area is part of the British Sovereign Base Areas in Cyprus. In fact, it contains an ACTIVE light-arms firing range. It might sound weird that I suggest a hike to take place in such an area, but there is a 'catch'. The firing range basically operates in two 'modes':

- 'In use' mode: you will not be able to even reach the hiking area, as there are numerous check-points with gates and observation posts forbidding any sort of intentional or accidental entrance.

- 'Closed' mode: you are basically free to move around almost without any limits in this vast area. The locals visit their potato cultivation fields in the area or go fishing, and people like me are able to enjoy their walking!

How would you know if the firing range is in use before you go there? You can check the active NAVTEX notices for CAPE Pyla from SBA here:

https://www.sbaadministration.org/index.php/notice-mariners

As discussed, even if you do not check, there is absolutely no way that you can enter the Cape Pyla area if the firing range is 'in use'. Therefore, I don't flag this is as being dangerous. It is not.

The firing range is actually one of the main reasons that I propose this hike! The entire firing range area is a graveyard of old tanks and other similar military vehicles, which are being used during the British army firing exercises. Granted, this is not an environmentally-friendly situation; but it does make for a fantastic spectacle! :)

The proposed hike starts at the modern Church of Panagia Evaggelistria, which possibly sits at the remains of an older Church. It is actually situated in the path of the E4 Cyprus trail (more on this later). If you have the time, do visit the old cave-shrine next to the Church, where the local legend says that the Virgin Mary icon was saved by the monks and later found. It is filled with hundreds of small icons of Orthodox Saints.

We immediately move south towards the beach, where many locals fish regularly. This area is actually not very clean for this reason. The hike continues towards the east, quickly entering the official SBA firing range through the open gate (this is one of the numerous places where you will be forbidden entrance during a firing exercise). On a typical February day, you will immediately start appreciating the beautiful green scenery all around, which is full of various shrubs and small trees, and of course numerous wildflowers (daisies especially!)

Within these first 2kms, the 'stars of the show' slowly introduce themselves: the old 'corpses' of decommissioned British tanks and of other military vehicles, which saw action in Iraq and other places, and now act as firing targets in the exercises! They are scattered in various places. With the majestic Mediterranean sea as visual background, this is photo-shooting heaven! It is evident that you should not touch or climb to any of these 'corpses', this would be dangerous. Just enjoy the experience!

We move up and enjoy the rich green fields, which, on a wet winter like 2024 (for this area!), could be a bit muddy, reminiscent of Akamas fields. In the stony areas, you will start encountering an abundance of Persian Cyclamens. A little short of the 5 km mark, at the highest point of Cape Pyla, you will reach another 'highlight' of this hike: The 'Xylofagou Tower', a strong link in the Venetian chain of watchtowers in south-eastern Cyprus. Unlike the rest of these watchtowers, the Xylofagou Tower is ... round! It is made of excellent cut-stone and, amazingly, there is no visible access to its internal part! It is believed that it was actually higher than it currently is, and that some kind of ladder was used for entering it. However, as it stands, it is a quite unique structure. There is, of course, a strategic reason behind the choice of this specific point for building the Tower. From here you can see practically everything in the south sea horizon! For us hikers, this creates more amazing photo opportunities. It should also be noted that the entire stony area around the Tower is filled with literally thousands of Persian cyclamens!

For the next 2.5 kms, the trail investigates the open facilities of the SBA firing range, which are very basic indeed. Various mechanical 'corpses' still appear at the most unexpected places! The views are still fantastic all around, and the rich flora is everywhere!

If you liked what you saw so far, and you are not interested to complete a longer hike, you can simply return to the starting point either through the same route, or through the potato fields and Xylofagou village; this will still be a great hike. However, as it is commonly known, I like long circular challenges. Therefore for the next 5kms, we set off eastwards through the fields to reach the well-known fishing port of 'Potamos Liopetriou' (River Liopetri). Not actually a river, Potamos used to be a significant international trade port up until at least the beginning of the 20th century. In recent times it was a picturesque fishing shelter, well-known and frequently visited en-mass for its fishing taverns. A very recent unfinished restoration, which has dragged on for years, has 'killed' its popularity. This seems to be finishing (at last).

My main attraction in Potamos is not the taverns (although one can certainly have a break here), but the significant 16th Century Chapel of St. George. It is a typical single-aisled, barrel-vaulted, Byzantine-style Orthodox Church, made of rough stone. Unfortunately, its frescos have been destroyed, but it is still very beautiful from the inside and the outside!

After Potamos, we join the official E4 Cyprus trail westawards next to the highway. At the 15km mark I have made a detour and re-joined E4 at the 16.5 km mark. This is unnecessary, unless you like a small adventure through the waterlogged underground passage of the highway. I loved it, but it might not be to everyone's taste!

For the next 2 kms, you will enjoy the vast cultivation fields of the FAMOUS Cypriot potato, arguably one of the best in the world, which is produced in Xylofagou en-mass and exported all over the world. Do notice the numerous water drills next to the fields (potatoes' growing needs loads of water).

The final part of the hike is an urban one: at the centre of Xylofagou village we visit a chapel which is almost a replica of the St. George's chapel at Potamos described earlier. Same Saint, same style, same period! The only difference is that some of the Xylofagou chapel frescos have survived, albeit more or less damaged. Unfortunately this chapel is locked, and I'm not sure when it is open to the public.

The last 2kms on the paved road will take you back to the starting point. Wonderful! If you follow this trail on a bright February day, especially the first 7-8 kms, you will certainly enjoy it a lot!