435. UNA ESCALA EN MASCATE, OMAN, LA SUIZA DE ORIENTE.

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Trail stats

Distance: 37.93 mi
Elevation gain: 1,483 ft
Technical difficulty: Easy
Elevation loss: 1,483 ft
Max elevation: 331 ft
TrailRank: 34
Min elevation: 21 ft
Trail type: Loop

Time: 3 hours 27 minutes
Coordinates: 1165
Uploaded: January 8, 2023
Recorded: January 2023

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near Ḩillat as Sūq, Muscat (Sultanate of Oman)

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¿Qué hacer en unas pocas horas en Mascate? La capital de la desconocida Omán nos ofrece los suficientes atractivos en una corta escala, como para desear el regreso con más tiempo. Conozcamos algo del país.
Omán está enclavado en una de las regiones más conflictivas del mundo, y geopolíticamente más cruciales. Está situada en el Estrecho de Ormuz, por donde discurre una de las rutas de los petroleros que abastecen a medio mundo, conectando el paso marítimo de los países del Golfo (Irán, Kuwait, Arabia Saudita, Bahréin, Qatar y Emiratos Árabes Unidos), con el Mar de Arabia y frente a las costas de Irán. Pero su situación política y económica hoy es apacible, y a menudo es denominado la Suiza de Oriente, por su estabilidad y prosperidad.
Omán ha sido desde hace siglos un enclave en las rutas marítimas entre la península arábiga. Europa y Asia con el resto del mundo. El mítico país del incienso que la reina de Saba regala al rey Salomón y, según la Biblia, le ofrecen los Reyes Magos al niño Jesús. Durante siglo y medio los portugueses lo ocupan como escala en sus rutas marítimas. Al expulsarlos los sultanes locales, forman un sólido reino que llega controlar puertos de la costa africana, como Mombasa y Zanzíbar, y enclaves en las actuales India y Pakistán. Hasta épocas recientes el país estuvo aislado del resto del mundo, incluso la capital cerraba sus puertas cada noche. La llegada del actual sultán, Qabús Bin Saïd, en 1970 lo abrió al mundo, conservando sus tradiciones. Aunque gran parte de su población proviene del extranjero, fundamentalmente de Asia, y cuenta con recursos petrolíferos ha intentado huir por el momento de los planteamientos de Emiratos Árabes o Qatar, basados en el lujo y la ostentación.
Mascate, o Muscat, capital del país es el objeto de nuestro viaje. Una ciudad tranquila que aún no ha sido tomada por el turismo, y conserva un equilibrio entre modernidad y tradiciones. La ciudad está encajonada entre recias montañas y el mar, con un emplazamiento buscado para protegerla en su día de los ataques exteriores. Estas mismas moles montañosas hacen que la Muscat se extienda varios kilómetros por las únicas zonas con posibilidad de edificación.
Una vez dejado el barco, y pasada la aduana nos encontramos un tipo con chilaba y rayban, que va distribuyendo a los pasajeros entre los taxis. Veinticinco dólares la hora y estamos rodando por las amplias carreteras hacia la GRAN MEZQUITA DEL SULTÁN QABOOS.
La intensa y limpia luz de enero y el impoluto mármol blanco deslumbra. Esta mezquita es la más grande e importante de Omán, y la única que puede ser visitada por no musulmanes. Para ello debemos embutirnos en las chilabas que cubren todo el cuerpo y además la cabeza de las mujeres (alquiler 15 dólares). Algunos datos: Fue inaugurada en 2001 y cuenta con cinco minaretes, representando los pilares del islam. Puede alojar 20.000 fieles, contando las salas de oración, patios y jardines. La alfombra de una pieza de 70 × 60 metros. La lámpara de araña encima de la sala de oración tiene 14 metros de altura.
Encontramos a nuestro taxista para llevarnos de regreso a la parte antigua donde nos espera el PALACIO DE AL ALAM, una de las residencias oficiales del sultán Qaboos bin Said. Aunque sólo podemos asomarnos a la valla externa, y ver su colorida fachada.
Detrás de este edificio nos espera el FUERTE AL MIRANI o Al Gharbiya. Construido en el siglo XVI por los portugueses para proteger el puerto de Mascate. Hoy se encuentra cerrado al público.
Y dejamos para el final a MUTRAH, y su colorido zoco. Un laberinto de calles, muchas de ellas techadas para protegerse del calor. Cientos de puestos de venta de telas, souvenir, o productos de uso normal, como baterías de cocina. Las tiendas más orientadas al turismo cuentan con vendedores más agresivos, los de productos locales nos miraran con indiferencia al pasar. A poco que nos alejemos de las calles más concurridas, encontraremos más deterioro en calles y tiendas, aunque la vida sigue fluyendo con igual intensidad.
Ya de regreso sentimos no haber podido visitar la Opera de Omán, y mucho más el interior de un país acogedor. Una pequeña dosis de un gran país que nos hará soñar durante tiempo.

What to do in a few hours in Muscat? The capital of the unknown Oman offers us enough attractions on a short stopover, to make us want to return with more time. Let's get to know something about the country.
Oman is nestled in one of the world's most troubled and geopolitically crucial regions. It is located in the Strait of Hormuz, where one of the oil tanker routes that supply half the world runs, connecting the maritime passage of the Gulf countries (Iran, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Qatar and the United Arab Emirates), with the Arabian Sea and off the coast of Iran. But its political and economic situation today is peaceful, and it is often called the Switzerland of the East, due to its stability and prosperity.
Oman has been an enclave on the maritime routes between the Arabian Peninsula for centuries. Europe and Asia with the rest of the world. The mythical country of incense that the Queen of Sheba gives to King Solomon and, according to the Bible, the Magi offer to the baby Jesus. For a century and a half, the Portuguese used it as a stopover on their maritime routes. Expelled by local sultans, they form a solid kingdom that comes to control ports on the African coast, such as Mombasa and Zanzibar, and enclaves in present-day India and Pakistan. Until recent times the country was isolated from the rest of the world, even the capital closed its doors every night. The arrival of the current sultan, Qabús Bin Saïd, in 1970 opened it to the world, preserving its traditions. Although a large part of its population comes from abroad, mainly from Asia, and has oil resources, it has tried to flee for the moment from the approaches of the United Arab Emirates or Qatar, based on luxury and ostentation.
Muscat, or Muscat, the capital of the country is the object of our trip. A quiet city that has not yet been taken over by tourism, and preserves a balance between modernity and traditions. The city is sandwiched between strong mountains and the sea, with a sought-after location to protect it from outside attacks. These same mountainous masses make Muscat extend several kilometers through the only areas with the possibility of building.
Once we left the ship, and past customs, we found a guy with a djellaba and a rayban, who was distributing the passengers among the taxis. Twenty-five dollars an hour and we're rolling down the wide roads to the GRAND MOSQUE OF SULTAN QABOOS.
The intense and clean light of January and the pristine white marble dazzle. This mosque is the largest and most important in Oman, and the only one that can be visited by non-Muslims. For this we must stuff ourselves into the djellabas that cover the entire body and also the head of the women (rental 15 dollars). Some facts: It was inaugurated in 2001 and has five minarets, representing the pillars of Islam. It can accommodate 20,000 faithful, counting the prayer rooms, patios and gardens. The one-piece carpet of 70 × 60 meters. The chandelier above the prayer hall is 14 meters high.
We find our taxi driver to take us back to the old part where the AL ALAM PALACE, one of the official residences of Sultan Qaboos bin Said, awaits us. Although we can only look at the external fence, and see its colorful facade.
Behind this building, the FORT AL MIRANI or Al Gharbiya awaits us. Built in the 16th century by the Portuguese to protect the port of Muscat. Today it is closed to the public.
And we leave MUTRAH for last, and its colorful souk. A labyrinth of streets, many of them covered to protect themselves from the heat. Hundreds of stalls selling fabrics, souvenirs, or products for normal use, such as kitchenware. The more tourist-oriented stores have more aggressive vendors, those selling local products will look at us with indifference as we pass. As soon as we move away from the busiest streets, we will find more deterioration in streets and shops, although life continues to flow with equal intensity.
On our return, we regret not having been able to visit the Oman Opera, let alone the interior of a welcoming country. A small dose of a great country that will make us dream for a long time.

Waypoints

Puerto de cruceros

Poco más adelante nos encontramos con la Aduana.

Gran mezquita de Omán

The Great Mosque of Sultan Qaboos is the largest and most important in Oman, being also the only one that can be visited by people who do not profess the Muslim religion. For the construction of the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, 300,000 tons of sandstone were used, hence its pristine white color. It has a total of five minarets, representing the five pillars of Islam. The tallest minaret rises up to 90 meters high, the rest reach 45 meters. The central dome reaches 50 meters in height, under it is the main prayer room. In total, the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque can accommodate 20,000 worshipers, counting the prayer rooms, patios and gardens. The mosque is built with 300,000 tons of Indian sandstone. The main musalla (prayer hall) is a 74.4 m square with a central dome rising 50 m above the ground. This dome, the minaret (90 m) and the four side minarets (45.5 m) are the main features of the mosque. The main musalla can accommodate more than 6,500 worshipers, and the women's musalla can accommodate 750 worshipers. The exterior paved floor can accommodate 8,000 worshipers and more space is available in the inner courtyard and corridors, making a total capacity of 20,000 worshipers. The carpet measures about 70 × 60 meters, and has an area of 4,343 square meters, all in one piece. The chandelier above the prayer hall is 14 meters high and was made by the German company Faustig. The mosque was built on a 416,000 m² plot and the complex occupies 40,000 m². It was inaugurated by the Sultan of Oman on May 4, 2001.

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Corniche de Muscate

Promenade, with the port at one end, and the ancient city that comes to fall at its feet.

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Palacio de Al Alam

AL ALAM PALACE is one of the official residences of Sultan Qaboos bin Said. Although we can only look at the external fence, and see its colorful facade.

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Fuerte Al Mirani

The Al Mirani Fort or Al Gharbiya. Built in the 16th century by the Portuguese to protect the port of Muscat. Today it is closed to the public.

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MUHRAT

The old part of the city. A labyrinth of streets, many of them covered to protect themselves from the heat. Hundreds of stalls selling fabrics, souvenirs, or products for normal use, such as kitchenware. The more tourist-oriented stores have more aggressive vendors, those selling local products will look at us with indifference as we pass. As soon as we move away from the busiest streets, we will find more deterioration in streets and shops, although life continues to flow with equal intensity.

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