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Manali - Leh Part 3

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Trail stats

Distance
159.33 mi
Elevation gain
7,352 ft
Technical difficulty
Moderate
Elevation loss
10,535 ft
Max elevation
18,099 ft
TrailRank 
62
Min elevation
10,615 ft
Trail type
One Way
Time
4 days 12 minutes
Coordinates
7389
Uploaded
September 19, 2015
Recorded
August 2015

near Takh, Jammu and Kashmīr (India)

Viewed 2953 times, downloaded 44 times

Trail photos

Photo ofManali - Leh Part 3 Photo ofManali - Leh Part 3 Photo ofManali - Leh Part 3

Itinerary description

From Pang we climb the switchbacks up to Morei.
The long Morei plains end at Debring, which is the start of the ascent to Taglang La. There are several tents offering food and accommodation: the last chance before the villages low down on the other side.
From Debring we make a one-day detour to visit the Tso Kar basin. We almost reach the Polo Gangkar pass giving access to Puga, but the weather is stormy. Note that it is impossible to go on to Tso Moriri without an inner line permit.
The following day we climb the Taglang La, highest pass of the Manali - Leh highway.
This stretch is plagued by the huge amount of dust, moved by the many Tata trucks, on the stretches that are not asphalted.
Long, scenic and asphalted descent on the other side.
At Upshi we reach the Indus valley.
We spend one night in Thiskey, at the luxurious Dharma Hotel, and this allows us a through visit of the wonderful gompa, perhaps the best in Ladakh.
Next day we finish the ride reaching Leh.

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Here the text written for the 360 panorama from the 5517 summit above Taglang La, namely http://www.panorama-photo.net/panorama.php?pid=18327 :
The Taglang La is the highest pass crossed by the Manali - Leh Highway, although the most important remains the one (Baralacha La) crossing the main watershed (Great Himalaya Range) between India and Tibet. Taglang La, on the other hand, crosses the minor range south of the Indus Valley, that is, south of the "kernel" of Ladakh. This range also called Zanskar Range from the name of the long Zanskar valley lying SW of central Ladakh. North of it, between the Indus and the Shyokh valleys, there are the three big passes that were already briefly discussed in N.18283.

As you see, the gradients of the road are very smooth, because at 5000 metres there is half the oxygen that one has at sea level, and this affects not only the engine of cyclists but also other kinds of engines... For example, in what inside the picture is named "asphalted final stretch" (following the "very dusty ascent") I was accompanied, in my climb at no more than 10 km/h, by a little Tata - this is the name of the main Indian motor brand. Find two Tatas along the lower border of the picture - as you see, they resisted to both the pass and the (even more dangerous) Stempel of the photo adjuster.

As you also see, the mountains in this stretch of the Himalaya are not aesthetically unbeatable. However, I was curious to stitch this picture in order to answer a question, namely, whether from this viewpoint we had seen the Saser Kangri group lying 150 km north. Saser Kangri (7672), in southern Karakoram, happens to be the highest peak in Ladakh. In 2010, right after having climbed the Somoni peak, I discovered in the list of highest mountains
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_highest_mountains
that the entry immediately before, namely, Saser Kangri II, represented the highest peak then unclimbed. Curiously enough, nowadays the crowns has passed to a... higher sumnit, that of a previously unlisted mountain.
Since neither Edoardo nor I have ever been to the "tough" Himalayas, we had also never seen anything higher than the Somoni. So, we were curious to see whether this record could be beaten, but Udeuschle seems to witness that the mountain was in clouds.

Of course here, besides the theme "high mountains", there is also the theme "high passes". For people interested in the controversial topic "highest motorable passes" I report some data. Note that, in these regions, when one come sto numbers it is virtually impossible to find two sources in agreement...
I listed the passes crossed by us, following the chronological order, which also coincides with the acclimaziation-friendly arrangement. The data stem from three different sources:
1) the 1:350.000 Nelles map Ladakh - Zanskar, the most detailed as far as I know. One value is a clear mistake;
2) the book: "Himalaya by bike", by Laura Stone, Trailblazer Publications;
3) my GPS.

_MAP BOOK GPS
3978 3988 3946 Rohtang La
4890 4918 4903 Baralacha La
4740 4937 4933 Nakeela La
5077 5077 5077 Lachlung La
5320 5300 5343 Taglang La
5360 _____ 5372 Chang La
5300 _____ 5309 Wari La
5360 5353 5368 Khardung La

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Waypoints

PictographWilderness hut Altitude 14,844 ft
Photo ofPang Photo ofPang

Pang

Military post and lots of tents with food and accommodation.

PictographPanorama Altitude 15,651 ft
Photo ofTop of Pang switchbacks Photo ofTop of Pang switchbacks Photo ofTop of Pang switchbacks

Top of Pang switchbacks

Beautiful view on the canyon. Very reminiscent of some spots in the Moroccan Atlas.

PictographWaypoint Altitude 15,478 ft
Photo ofYaks in the Morei plains Photo ofYaks in the Morei plains Photo ofYaks in the Morei plains

Yaks in the Morei plains

A settlement of the Rupshu nomads, with a big herd of yaks.

PictographPanorama Altitude 15,352 ft
Photo ofMorei plains viewpoint Photo ofMorei plains viewpoint

Morei plains viewpoint

A beautiful spot towards the north end of the plains. We passed here at sunset. Debring is not far from here, nearly in view.

PictographRuins Altitude 15,201 ft
Photo ofRuins of a village Photo ofRuins of a village Photo ofRuins of a village

Ruins of a village

Visible little below the road, little after the view opens on the Tso Kar basin.

PictographWilderness hut Altitude 15,053 ft
Photo ofThukje Photo ofThukje Photo ofThukje

Thukje

Little village on the former shore of the Tso Kar. Now away from the lake, which has shrunk a lot.

PictographReligious site Altitude 15,251 ft
Photo ofThukje gompa Photo ofThukje gompa Photo ofThukje gompa

Thukje gompa

Dominates the village and the Tso Kar basin from above a hill.

PictographWaypoint Altitude 15,406 ft
Photo ofTowards Polo Gangkar Photo ofTowards Polo Gangkar Photo ofTowards Polo Gangkar

Towards Polo Gangkar

The pass giving access to Puga and the Tso Moriri region. We could not make it to Tso Moriri, since we did not have the Inner Line Permit yet.

PictographWilderness hut Altitude 15,252 ft
Photo ofDebring Photo ofDebring Photo ofDebring

Debring

Group of tents before the ascent to Taglang La. Also fork to Tso Kar.

PictographPanorama Altitude 16,557 ft
Photo ofAscent to Taglang Photo ofAscent to Taglang Photo ofAscent to Taglang

Ascent to Taglang

The marked spot is a panoramic bend on the south side of the pass.

PictographMountain pass Altitude 17,533 ft
Photo ofTaglang La, 5344 Photo ofTaglang La, 5344 Photo ofTaglang La, 5344

Taglang La, 5344

Highest point of the Manali-Leh highway, and one of the highest motorable passes of the world.

PictographSummit Altitude 18,094 ft
Photo ofSummit 5517 Photo ofSummit 5517 Photo ofSummit 5517

Summit 5517

Easily accessible from the pass. Hosts some buildings that seem to be military.

PictographPanorama Altitude 16,811 ft

VIewpoint on switchbacks

A beautiful point marked also by some prayer flags. The curves below have a very Alpine character.

PictographCampsite Altitude 15,075 ft
Photo ofBase of switchbacks Photo ofBase of switchbacks

Base of switchbacks

I marked the place where the road first reaches the valley, passing very close to the river. We find some people camping here.

PictographMountain hut Altitude 13,194 ft
Photo ofLato Photo ofLato Photo ofLato

Lato

Offers a nice hostel.

PictographIntersection Altitude 11,266 ft
Photo ofUpshi Photo ofUpshi Photo ofUpshi

Upshi

The place where the Indus valley is first reached. Bailey bridge on the river.

PictographReligious site Altitude 12,200 ft
Photo ofMiru Photo ofMiru Photo ofMiru

Miru

Little village with an incredible amount of chortens and Mani walls. THis is becaus it was the birthplace of the king Semgge Namgyal.

PictographReligious site Altitude 12,534 ft
Photo ofGompa of Miru Photo ofGompa of Miru Photo ofGompa of Miru

Gompa of Miru

Abandoned gompa high on the hill dominating the village. The main room, that featuring the frescoes, is not locked. Note: the access to the roof is dangerous!!

PictographWaypoint Altitude 13,902 ft
Photo ofSasoma Photo ofSasoma Photo ofSasoma

Sasoma

PictographPanorama Altitude 10,847 ft
Photo ofView on Stakna gompa Photo ofView on Stakna gompa Photo ofView on Stakna gompa

View on Stakna gompa

A gompa on a little high dominating the Indus river.

PictographMountain hut Altitude 10,754 ft
Photo ofThiksey

Thiksey

Here one finds the very recommended Hotel Chamba.

PictographReligious site Altitude 11,082 ft
Photo ofThiksey gompa

Thiksey gompa

PictographReligious site Altitude 10,752 ft

Shey

PictographWaypoint Altitude 11,582 ft
Photo ofLeh centre Photo ofLeh centre Photo ofLeh centre

Leh centre

The busy centre which is full of "beautification" works.

PictographReligious site Altitude 11,801 ft
Photo ofSankar gompa Photo ofSankar gompa Photo ofSankar gompa

Sankar gompa

In the most quiet and beautiful place of Leh.

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