Cycling through Europe - Part 5: Bosnia-Herzegovina via Mostar and Sarajevo

Beginning in May 2016, we commence a 3-4 month cycling tour of Europe. Starting in Geneva, we plan to cycle through Switzerland, Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, Hungary and Romania, before crossing the Black Sea and picking up the trail in Georgia. We plan to depart Georgia for South Korea in early August and continue our cycling trek through Asia.

Part 3: Bosnia-Herzegovina, crossing the country south to north
Time: 10 days + 4 rest days in Mostar and Sarajevo
Route: Julian Alps, Soca Valley, Karst & Coast Region, western side of the country north to south
Trains: from Sarajevo to Doboj
Difficulty: difficult, the main road between Mostar and Sarajevo follow the valley and is a major road so there is a lot of cars and trucks which make it quite dangerous. When we were there, the train tracks were being repaired so there was no train between those two cities but we highly recommend to take the train. The southern part of the country is very mountainous and there is not that many roads. We used a classic road map to plan our way.

Leaving the warm waters of the Adriatic Sea behind us, we head north before entering Bosnia and Herzegovina. More than twenty years have now passed since the end of the bitter conflict that almost tore this country apart. However, for many of us, the name of the country itself only brings memories of harrowing media reports, stories of atrocities that we really knew nothing about and came from a distant outpost ‘somewhere in The Balkans’. We were intrigued, and really wanted to see what else this country had to offer, aside from its dark chapters.

Herzegovina Region:
Beginning our journey at the serene Kravice Waterfalls, swollen and rushing after a bout of recent rains, we continued north along an ancient pilgrim’s route to the town of Medjugorje, before heading through the karsted landscape to the town of Mostar. As the largest township in the Herzegovina region, Mostar is well known for its unique 16th century bridge, or Stari Most, now rebuilt to represent its former glory after it was destroyed Croatian forces in 1993. With its ‘east meets west’ feel, the town has a beautifully restored old centre, its skyline scattered with both the minarets of mosques and the steeples of catholic churches.

Sarajevo:
A city of rich history and culture, Sarajevo is our next stop on our tour through The Balkans. As the largest city and capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Sarajevo is located on the Miljacka River, nestled in a valley between the surrounding peaks of the Dinaric Alps. After entering the city through what was the former infamous Sniper Alley, we spend two days in the old town, climbing to the top of the Zuta tabija (or Yellow Bastion) for extensive views of the city skyline. We also take a tour of one of the city's beautiful mosques, where we listen to a beautiful call to prayer. We sample a traditional Bosnian Khash, made from boiled calve's head and feet (delicious, but not for the vegetarians!) and tour many of the city's architectural sites, including the Latin Bridge, the location of the assassination of Crown Prince Ferdinand of Austria.

The Sava River Valley:
We break up the bicycle tour through Bosnia and Herzegovina and take the train to the town of Doboj, in the northern reaches of the country. From here, we pick up the trail on the bicycles once again, heading towards the Serbian border. We cross the townships of Modrica, Brcko and Bijeljina on route, passing the peculiar Stanisica Ethno Village, where we witness a strange blend of Balkan culture and Disney fantasy! Continuing eastwards, we cross yet another border post and enter Serbia, finally reaching the murky waters of the Sava River and the nearby township of Sabac where we stay for the night.

Photos and more info on our website: www.upsidownearth.com
Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgsIbdUo5rY