Mount Steele SE ridge attempt
near Quill Creek, Yukon (Canada)
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Itinerary description
May 2019. Team of 6. We flew in to the upper landing site with Icefield Discovery. Did Mount Jedken as an acclimatisation peak. (We had planned to do Walsh but rejected it as too icy and crevassed.) We carried up a cache of food up to our ABC camp. The next day we moved our entire camp up there. (We cached emergency food and gas at the landing site, in case the plane was delayed in picking us up - which it was, due to bad weather.)
From ABC we did a series of recce trips up SE Steele - hampered by bad weather. There is no short-cut around the side. The only way on is over the top. We then moved our camp over SE Steele to our High Camp, on the col below Mount Steele. We then skied up to the base of the final 1000m face. We'd come equipped to ski and do basic alpinism but the snow cover was low and we weren't equipped to deal with the sheets of blue ice and big crevasses on the face. After sitting out a day of bad weather, we returned to the landing site.
From ABC we did a series of recce trips up SE Steele - hampered by bad weather. There is no short-cut around the side. The only way on is over the top. We then moved our camp over SE Steele to our High Camp, on the col below Mount Steele. We then skied up to the base of the final 1000m face. We'd come equipped to ski and do basic alpinism but the snow cover was low and we weren't equipped to deal with the sheets of blue ice and big crevasses on the face. After sitting out a day of bad weather, we returned to the landing site.
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